12 replies to this topic

[crossy71]

Hi,

I just got a set of adjustable bottom arms and tie rods and i need to know a decent setup to have on the front end, the car is currently running 4.5x12 rims, metro 4 pots so it is offset is roughly half an inch greater than standard, the car is a daily driver but it see's a lot of fast country lanes so i want it to have a little more road holding, i was thinking of having the castor and toe set to standard as i dont have a clue on these two, and 1 to 1.5 deg neg camber. There are no rear adj brackets atm but thoughts on this would be great too.

The car needs to be useable on the motorway as well as country lanes.

Thanks
Joe

[mars red mike]

It will be next to impossible to set them up properly yourself. Get it booked into one of those laser alignment places.

[jaydee]

Go to a garage to set caster at 3,5° with 1,6mm toe out and neg camber 1°.
I wouldnt go over thse figures on a road car.

[SolarB]

It's actually very easy to set camber and toe at home if you're methodical and are prepared to spend a little time.
Caster is more difficult to measure accurately without a special tool but what you are looking for is an identical setting on each side rather than an exact angle.
Have a Google for "home suspension setup" or similar, you'll soon find what you're after.

[bmcecosse]

Absolutely - a flat patch of road/car park/driveway and a spirit level will set your camber. Simple tracking gauge is easily made from Dexion or similar, and set both tie-bars to the same length and you won't be far away for a road car ! If the car tends to pull to one side, simply adjust the tie bars slightly to correct - and then re-set the tracking.
For the rear suspension - again check the tracking and adjust to parallel - making sure both wheels are parallel to the car centre line ! Rear wheels are best set dead upright (for a road car) - do this by filing the trailing arm location bracket. Simples !!

Edited by bmcecosse, 03 July 2009 - 07:54 AM.

[crossy71]

Thanks for the advice, it will be getting took for a setup at a local tracking shop next time i have some spare time

[Cooperman]

The rear wheels should toe-in 1/8" and have zero to 1 degree negative.
In fact, the rear settings seem to be the critical onse on the Mini, much more so than the fronts.
Front toe-in at zero is good if harder up-rated suspension bushes are fitted and 1 to 1.5 deg neg on the front is good too. With regard to caster, it's difficult to get it he same both sides and still have the wheel centres the same distance from a datum on the sub-frame due to manufacturing tolerances. If the caster is identicalboth sides at, say, a nominal 3 deg, then it is possible for the wheelbase one side to be a small amount different from the other side with the result that the car will turn-in one way better than the other.
If you make sure the car is in correct front-to-rear alignment, i.e. not 'crabbing', set the toe-in and camber on the rear, set the toe-in and camber on the front, then optimise the caster at around 3 degrees whilst ensuring that the wheelbase is identical both sides, it will handle very well.

[bmcecosse]

I beg to differ on that rear toe-in! Set them parallel - but just make sure they DO NOT toe-out!!

[Cooperman]

They should always toe-in by about 1/8" on the back.
That was the original dimension in the old BMC Workshop Manual and nothing has changed.
That's the way all the old 'works' Mini rally cars were set, that's how I've always set all my various rally Minis over the years (since 1961!), and they handle as well as any Mini.

[crossy71]

So its critical to get the rear set up when the front is done? can anyone recomend a reliable rear camber bracket, i see they are all around £30-£40 from the usuall suspects and i dont want to pay £80 for the one from kad.

Which company (exept kad) make the best one?

[icklemini]

Minispares/MiniSport ones are OK - have experience of both of them failing, but its pretty rare.

Go for camber and tracking brackets - 1/8" toe in - although standard - is a little toooo much really

[rick.spi]

i got 1.5 camber arms on the front and lowered... i wouldnt advise it though, it handles alright but wears tyres like a munter...

in vizard book says 1.5 degrees of camber on the rear is good.

[Cooperman]

It does seem that the rear suspension settings are very critical if a Mini is to handle well.
1.5 deg neg on the rear is good for racing, but zero to 0.5 neg is generally accepted as fine for a road Mini.
It's a personal thing as to what rear toe-in you set. As has been said, it MUST NOT toe-out on the rear, but anything from 1/32" to 1/8" toe-in on the back will be fine. I use 1/8" as that works on a rally car on gravel or tarmac.
The problem with much that is said about Minis, not just suspension, is that people have read this and that and want to do it to their Minis, whilt the 'this & that' they have read refers to Minis used for competition on smooth tracks where the issues concerning road-going cars do not apply.
For example, 4-pot brake calipers are totally unnecessary on road Minis as with decent pads and good-condition discs, a Mini will always stop fine.
Having driven a huge number of Minis over the past 48 years, in all sorts of configurations, there are some cars which have had a small fortune spent on modifying them and when driven they are awful. I guess those making, selling and fitting some performance accessories are only interested in the money, never mind that the parts won't make the car drive any better. Some are lowered, then they 'leap' all over the road because there is no suspension travel to absorb the bumps in everyday driving. Fine on Silverstone, where there are no bumps, but not down the B1040, for example.
A Mini can be made to go, handle and stop for very little outlay if you do the work yourself. For example, the rear suspension can be set up in a morning and all you need is a tape measure, a file or two, some straight bits of wood, some large washers and a MIG welder (that sounds a bit simple, but it can be done to an acceptable level).