47 replies to this topic

[The-Womble]

Just wondering if there is any difference between different Electronic Ignition kits? Prices seem to vary from £25 to £80 ish...Just wondering what improvements you'd get from an £80. over a £25 one.

Thanks

[samsfern]

ive always stuck with the aldon ignitor, about 70 pound, ive done 8k miles on a single unit, still counting lol

Edited by samsernie, 07 February 2010 - 11:34 PM.

[dklawson]

I have never been a fan of the kits that combine the magnetic pulse device with the rotor. That's what the "cheap" kit does (second link). If the rotor fails (and when it wears out) you may or may not be able to find a new rotor and will be faced with buying the whole kit. The Lumenition kit (first link) has been around for a while but they aren't common in the U.S. so I have no first hand experience with them. The Ignitor modules mentioned by samsernie have a good track record but there is a big caveat about them. Do NOT leave your ignition turned on with the engine NOT running. Short periods are OK but anything more than 3-4 minutes can overheat the module and cause it to fail. The new Ignitor-2 modules do not have that problem/limitation. There is also the "Britparts" kit. Use the search feature at the top right corner of this page to find old threads about it. By all accounts it offers the "good" of the original Ignitor concept for significantly less money.

[lrostoke]

The Britpart kit used to use the integral inducer but looking at Britparts website the kit is now pretty much identical to the Aldon unit.
I brought 2 of the old kits for different minis from here http://www.mm-4x4.co...-kit-2721-p.asp
That link shows the old kit but probably worth asking if they have the updated version

the 2 minis they are fitted to have done probably 30,000 miles each since fitting trouble free.

[stuwhitfield]

will these kits work on both 998's and 1275's? or are there specific/prefered ones for each engine size?

[lrostoke]

Depends on the dizzy fitted, they only replace the points and condensor.

[The-Womble]

Thanks a lot guys, I'll have a look into the Britpart kits.

[Twincam]

The Britpart kit has changed a little bit from the photo on their website - the part number is still the same (ETC5835K) but there is now no Rotor Arm (the original one can be used - I emailed a member of the team at MM4x4 for confirmation)

Heres a picture of the new kit



and heres the new instructions...

[The-Womble]

Cheers Twincam !

I've just emailed MM 4x4 a minute ago to ask about that, but it looks like I'll go ahead and order it now.


Edit: Is the only change the fact that there is now no rotor arm? If so, would it help for me to buy the old kit with a new rotor arm in it, as mine is looking a little worse for wear?

Edited by The-Womble, 08 February 2010 - 11:30 AM.

[lrostoke]

One thing those instructions don't mention is on a mini you should run a new 12v ignition fed live to the red wire on the module, and don't connect the red wire to the coil.

The black wire you do connect to the negative on the coil.

They are sold for Landrovers which run a non ballast system so designed to run at 12 volts.

Edited by lrostoke, 08 February 2010 - 11:29 AM.

[The-Womble]

Thanks for the advice, however my car runs a non-ballast system...I've just got the standard 12V coil etc.

I take it I would be fine?

[lrostoke]

no worries then just fit as per printed instructions

[Twincam]

Edit: Is the only change the fact that there is now no rotor arm? If so, would it help for me to buy the old kit with a new rotor arm in it, as mine is looking a little worse for wear?

No worries, I was a tad scared when I bought it and a member on here told me I needed the Rotor Arm...

I don't think they stock the "old kit" anymore - even Britpart themselves are showing the "new style" kit.

One thing those instructions don't mention is on a mini you should run a new 12v ignition fed live to the red wire on the module, and don't connect the red wire to the coil.

The black wire you do connect to the negative on the coil.

They are sold for Landrovers which run a non ballast system so designed to run at 12 volts.

What would you then put on the +ve connection on the coil or do you leave it blank?

Edit: When was the change over for the Ballast systems?

Edited by Twincam, 08 February 2010 - 11:44 AM.

[lrostoke]

What would you then put on the +ve connection on the coil or do you leave it blank?

Do Minis' system not run at 12V?

Mini ignition comes in 2 main flavours ballast and non ballast, ballast came in around 1984

if the coil as a white/pink wire connected to the positive then its ballasted and will be running at around 8 volts

If no white/pink wire then non ballast and will be a 12v system.

If you have the ballasted system then you need a new 12v feed to the red wire on the module, do not connect the red wire to the coil

If its non ballasted then the red wire can be connected direct to the coil.

In both cases leave the standard car wiring connected to the coil, no need to disconnect anything.

Edited by lrostoke, 08 February 2010 - 11:48 AM.

[The-Womble]

Edit: Is the only change the fact that there is now no rotor arm? If so, would it help for me to buy the old kit with a new rotor arm in it, as mine is looking a little worse for wear?

No worries, I was a tad scared when I bought it and a member on here told me I needed the Rotor Arm...

I don't think they stock the "old kit" anymore - even Britpart themselves are showing the "new style" kit.

Right ok, so I'll just buy the kit and buy a new rotor arm at the same time

Thanks a bunch guys....really helpful

Edit: ^ That sounds really sarcastic, but it's not

Edited by The-Womble, 08 February 2010 - 12:04 PM.