9 replies to this topic

[MiniBonkerz]

Right as im having the subframe out of my mpi and the engine what bush's mounts etc do i need to replace had a look and dont have a clue as there are so many



Also the 2 huge nuts that are in the bulhead connected to the subby what size are they?: as i guess i will need to buy a socket for them mine only go upto 24mm i think


also is it a 28mm socket for the ball joints?

chris

[jayare]

The large subframe bolts are 1-5/16" AF (same as most disc brake hub nuts and early steering wheel). Ball joints are 1-1/2" AF - you'll need a deep socket for them as it has to go over the pin.

It would be ideal to replace all the mounts whilst it's out - there are tower mounts, floor mounts and front panel mounts,

JR

[MiniBonkerz]

thanks for your help im still a little confused tho as there are tear drop etc etc what are he correct names i need for these mounts

[charlie_the_miniboy]

tower bolts

[Pauly]

Tower mount rubbers, teardrop mounts (front panel), subframe to floor mounts (rear mounts).

If you do a search on minispares you will quickly pick up the correct names for parts.

Edited by Pauly, 09 February 2010 - 09:18 AM.

[MiniBonkerz]

cheers paul so i guess its 2 of each is it?

[Pauly]

Correct.

[MiniBonkerz]

Cheers Pauly will order them now

[WILKO - CLUBBY]

Hi there, I'm looking at a rebuild myself at the moment and have looked into this myself. Here is what you need to know about subframe/engine mounts:

- Front: Peardrop/teardrop mounts are the front mounts of the subframe, between the subframe and the front panel where there are bolts either side of the number plate, the following are what you can use, you have the standard rubber mounts, you can get polyurathane versions and solid mounts (normally alloy). Most people are using poly mounts or solids in their builds now, these harder bushes have the advantage of not needing replacement and can improve the handling.

- Towers: For the subframe towers there are two bushes each side, again with the same 3 versions available and again the poly-bush versions preferred nowadays and the solids can be used too. One is oval shaped and this is sandwiched between the tower and the body and then a round one for each tower bolt.

- Back: there are two rear mounts bolting to the floor of the shell, one in each foot well. Again 3 varieties, the solid mounts normally shied away from for road use so either original rubber mounts or poly-mounts here.

- Engine: two mounts, one on each side, both identical. again a rubber mount, solid race style and poly-mount option available here, poly-mounts are widely unliked, most popular here is the original rubber type mount and solid type mounts normally reserved for performance engines and track cars. the engine also uses 2 stabilisers as standard, one on the left hand side, connecting the left hand side of the block to the bulkhead, the stabiliser itself is a standard part whilst poly-bushes are preferred here to the original rubber type. The 2nd mount attaches to the gear box, again a standard part in itself with the poly-bushes preferred but rubber type also available. There is an additional steady available known as the ultimate engine steady, these connect the right hand side of the head to the bulkhead, normally connecting to the thermostat studs, widely over-rated by stockists and widely unliked and removed by users but if you do decide on one, be sure to get the correct version for your engine.

There are bush kits available from most mini parts stockists, although the whole car kits tend not to feature the front subframe mounts so make sure you get everything you need.

Hope this is accurate and that it helps, feel free to correct me anyone.

Sam

[MiniBonkerz]

Thanks Sam that was informative i was planning on poly bushes throughout but having read the bit about the engine mounts will have to reconsider this part

I did buy an ultimate engine steady and when it arrived i did not like the look of it one bit so sold it on

Again thanks for the info has helped alot

Chris