Swapping A 998cc For A Metro 1.3 Options

[Bubba1]

Ok, my standard 998cc engine has been annoying me for too long. So its time for a swap. I've got a 1.3 Metro engine lined up and i've thought i might aswell change the exhaust system. Will the kits available on Mini parts websites fit or do i need to find a Metro exhaust kit?

Also, are there any nasties to fitting a Metro engine? Are the engine mounts the same? Are there any modifications i need to make at all?

[olds_kool_lews]

i did this afew weeks ago, bought a complete 1.3 metro for its engine, you'll need to fit mini engine mounts as metro ones are completely different, also, a mini exhaust will fit straight on aslong as you have the mini manifold, not sure if 998 manifolds are ok, bore size might be different?

there are no nasty surprises in fitting the engine, just make sure you use the mini driveshafts as metro ones are to long.

hope this helps!

[dmini]

I too have recently fitted a metro engine.

The 998 exhaust might fit, but it is a smaller bore and will restrict the performance of the 1.3 metro engine. Metros had a LCB type exhaust fitted - a cast manifold with 2 link pipes. To get the most out of it you will need a LCB exhaust manifold and 1.75" Dia exhaust system.

The only obvious surprises from what I can remember are that you will need to drill the cyclinder head for a heater take off (recess is not drilled on metro head) and you may need to modify the breather on the timing cover so the fan blades do not hit it (metros had a front mounted rad).

[mosh_dude86]

The 998 exhaust might fit, but it is a smaller bore and will restrict the performance of the 1.3 metro engine. Metros had a LCB type exhaust fitted - a cast manifold with 2 link pipes. To get the most out of it you will need a LCB exhaust manifold and 1.75" Dia exhaust system.

The only obvious surprises from what I can remember are that you will need to drill the cyclinder head for a heater take off (recess is not drilled on metro head) and you may need to modify the breather on the timing cover so the fan blades do not hit it (metros had a front mounted rad).

We've got to get it home first (IMG:style_emoticons/default/oompf.gif)

Anything else other than this? And when you say drill, i take it you mean drill and tap? How did you modify the timing cover breather?

Nim, looks like your getting a new exhaust mate, and looks like it's gonna take a while to get in (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif)

[998dave]

With the breather you don't necessarily have to modify, (read hit with hammer), the breather.
On mine I just put an extra fan spacer in and got adequate clearance.

You have to drill the heater tap hole, and also may have to tap the two fixing holes.

Dave

[mosh_dude86]

Cheers for that guys. We'll see what we make of it when we go look tonight.

Another question, do the stabilisers at the top of the engine need modifying? And also, the starter system, it's an '88 we're puttin this engine in, do i have to change anything there?

[mosh_dude86]

Yeah that shoulda mostly said 'we' not 'i', getting ahead of myself there!

Other thing we've come across is keeping it cool. Does the Metro 1300 have an oil cooler as standard ergo we're gonna have to get one? and is the side mounted radiator sufficient? Cheers again this is helping alot....kinda, not so good for Bub's wallet!!!

[Cooperman]

Mechanially the Metro 1275 engine is identical to the Mini 1275 engine, so all parts are interchangeable.
So long as you have the correct radiator for a 1275 Mini you'll be fine. An oil ooler does help in warm weather at higher cruising speeds.
If you are swapping the engine and gearbox as a complete unit, changing only the engine mounts, be careful to check the final drive ratio.
As for exhaust system, for a 1275 you need a 1.75" internal diameter pipe all the way from the end of the exhaust manifold to the final exit point. An RC40 or Maniflow are the best and optimise the power. As to manifold, the Maniflow LCB is excellent.

[dmini]

Mechanially the Metro 1275 engine is identical to the Mini 1275 engine, so all parts are interchangeable.
So long as you have the correct radiator for a 1275 Mini you'll be fine. An oil ooler does help in warm weather at higher cruising speeds.
If you are swapping the engine and gearbox as a complete unit, changing only the engine mounts, be careful to check the final drive ratio.
As for exhaust system, for a 1275 you need a 1.75" internal diameter pipe all the way from the end of the exhaust manifold to the final exit point. An RC40 or Maniflow are the best and optimise the power. As to manifold, the Maniflow LCB is excellent.

You will just need to drill out the recess to allow the water to exit the head and into the heater take off. The 2 smaller holes, to attach the heater take off, should already be drilled and tapped.

For the timing cover, I cut the side off the breather and welded a flat plate back on just to make sure of clearance and looks a bit neater than bashing it with a hammer, not that you can see much of it when everythings in though!

In the end I decided to go with the mini spares 2 core rad to help with the cooling. and also hav the maniflow LCB and exhaust.

Engine mounts and top and bottom stabilsers should fit off the mini.

[Bubba1]

Just got back from having a nosy at the Metro engine. Its not as complete as i thought it was. The carb, starter motor and thermostat are missing, not the end of the world i know but it would of been nice if they were there.
everything else looked to be in order though. The head even had the holes already drilled out.

So then from what we could tell it was a good engine but without any history. No idea what car its from or what year the engine is.

Is it worth a gamble?

[dmini]

Just got back from having a nosy at the Metro engine. Its not as complete as i thought it was. The carb, starter motor and thermostat are missing, not the end of the world i know but it would of been nice if they were there.
everything else looked to be in order though. The head even had the holes already drilled out.

So then from what we could tell it was a good engine but without any history. No idea what car its from or what year the engine is.

Is it worth a gamble?

You'll probbaly end up having to get a carb for it then. Might be able to get away with the mini starter motor and you can use the mini thermostat housing on the metro head, with a cooper top rad hose and bracket.

The engine number will tell you a bit about it - theres plenty of info on the numbers on this forum.

When you say its got no carb, where has the engine been sitting? if its been outside I would advise you check no water has got in it. I got my metro engine from a scrap yard and found out once we stripped it that water had got into the cylinder bores - which led to a re-bore and pistons £££.

Another thing to watch out for is if its the leaded or unleaded head.

[mosh_dude86]

You'll probbaly end up having to get a carb for it then. Might be able to get away with the mini starter motor and you can use the mini thermostat housing on the metro head, with a cooper top rad hose and bracket.

The engine number will tell you a bit about it - theres plenty of info on the numbers on this forum.

When you say its got no carb, where has the engine been sitting? if its been outside I would advise you check no water has got in it. I got my metro engine from a scrap yard and found out once we stripped it that water had got into the cylinder bores - which led to a re-bore and pistons £££.

Another thing to watch out for is if its the leaded or unleaded head.

Well, it's been in a shed for over a year, so it'll be alright in the manner. There is a manifold on though so theres less chance. And even though there was no cap on the rocker cover the rockers etc were still a little oiley so thats a good sign.

Unfortunatly there is no engine number so we can't i.d it. Bit of a bugger. Since learnt that 1275's had no tappet chest covers.... shoulda looked. Best guess is that the engine is mid 80's. Which doesnt help. How can we tell if a cylinder head is unleaded or not?

[dmini]

You won't be able to tell for certain if its unleaded unless you strip the head down and look at the exhaust valve seats for inserts. Depends how involved your going to get with the new engine. If your doing that you can check the valve sizes while your at it to check its a metro head or not.

There are a few other ways of telling if its a 1275 A plus, such as no by-pass hose above the water pump into the head.

This post has been edited by dmini: Mar 11 2010, 09:52 PM