2 replies to this topic

[studio2wheels]

Model: 1000 - Studio 2
Year: 1990
Description of problem:

Started a 30 mile, 45 minute drive at night with I assume fully charged battery.
After 5 minutes, made a right turn and noticed that indicator just stayed full on (no flashing) and radio lights went out.
Stopped car and engine to investigate. Both indicators (left and right) don't flash and car won't turn over.
Bump started it and red ignition light stays on (charging circuit fault?). Hit the accelerator and red light goes off.
Proceed to drive the 29 miles home, headlights getting slightly dimmer.
Move from 40 mph to motorway and notice car hesitates at high revs when struggling to overtake at 50 mph.
Decide to leave motorway and go the remaining 10 miles on A roads.
Lights getting dimmer and dimmer
4 miles from home, serious lack of engine power and car hesitating even in 3rd gear at 35 mph, headlights very dim, pull in for safety as people can't see me and I'm crawling along!
Butch lady mechanic stops and puts some juice in to battery with jump leads (nah, not really!)
Drive the remaining 4 miles home with headlights starting off OK and dimming again soon enough.

Feels like alternator to me, as the battery managed to power the headlights for 35 minutes (with probably not much help from charging circuit)
Battery connections are a bit coated in white stuff (nothing major), but the current was traveling from battery to headlights OK.
Battery probably OK if it could power headlights for 35 minutes.
Mysterious electric failings (indicators don't flash, radio light going off and on, panel lights getting dim)
Strangely, the speedo panel light that hadn't worked for last 2 weeks (should have seen this coming!) comes back on!
After that final jump start to get the final 4 miles home, machine gun clicking of discharged battery when turning key in ignition.

These symptoms feel like alternator symptoms, but are there any checks to do with wiring first?
Wires/connectors from alternator look OK, if a bit dirty.
Fuses all look OK. One contact starting to get a bit of gunk on it.
(dodgy starting in cold/wet, battery is an 028, have been advised to get 063)

I guess, I'll get the batt out, charge it, source a voltmeter and check the voltage before and after starting engine and see if battery is healthy.

I guess the red ignition light staying on after bump/jump starting it indicates charging circuit fault?

Anyone got any other tips to diagnose/test parts of this problem (batt/alternator/wiring)? That is, if you've read this far! A bit of a ramble, I would concede!

Oh, and if alternator, is there any point (price-wise) in attempting DIY repair of it?

Happy motoring boys and girls! (thank goodness this winter seems over, might be able to start Betty a bit easier for a few months!)

[tadleysimon]

sounds like the alternator to me, if i was you id check the connections first then stick a new one in, just find the fault with trial and error

[2009poolesparky]

get a mulitimeter and stick one end on the earth strap and the other on the alternator charge terminal, with the engine running you should get 14 - 14.6 volts

again with engine running measure across the battery, you should get around 13 - 14 volts. with the engine off the battery should read about 12.6 volts, if it is a little less than this and the battery will need charging overnight. if it is significantly lower you will need a new battery.
if there is no voltage when measuring the alternator then that is the problem, again a new one is needed.

as for indicators, check terminals onto the flasher unit, and also check the flasher unit (under dash)


hope this helps


alex

Edited by 2009poolesparky, 13 March 2010 - 02:38 PM.