20 replies to this topic

[OJM]

Model: SPI Cooper - Monte Carlo
Year: 1994

Following on from a topic I posted about spluttering etc (http://www.theminifo...showtopic=82575) I wanted to ask what the proper way of testing the alternator and battery is. If someone could advise on a step by step, that would be great. It's getting to the point where I'm considering shelling out £73 for a new battery, just to see if that helps.

Problem at the moment is the car won't start first time, or forth time, and takes a while for it to kick into life. Once it's eventually started (it sometimes dies), it splutters for a while, but idles out of it, then it's fine. Occassionally it does splutter when driving it too.

I've changed the HT leads, dizzy cap and rotor, and the next step is to change the belt tomorrow - not neccessarily knowing it's the problem, but out of general maintenance as well.

All the other electrics seem to be ok, so it's all a little confusing.

On the third page of the previous topic, you'll see some battery readings I took - http://www.theminifo...showtopic=82575

Any help would be greatly appreciated! I obviously don't want to waste money on replacing things which aren't the issue.

Cheers!

[taffy1967]

The battery should read 12 Volts when the ignition is off (switch your volt meter to volts and just touch each connector to both poles of the battery. Red for the positive side.) If the reading is less then you need to charge the battery.

With your engine running the volt meter should read slightly higher than 12 Volts. If the reading is less than 12 Volts, then it's possible your Alternator needs a rebuild.

[OJM]

I'll give it another check, cheers!

What else should I look out for, if the voltage seems ok both on and off?

[Neilos]

not neccessarily taffy. A battery could read 12 volts, but have little or no current, therefore my car wont start. Ive had this plenty of times on my mini.

The correct way to test a battery is to perform a discharge test which will tell you what the state of your battery is.

For a simpler way, id take the battery off the car, totally charge it, then try and start your mini. Then stop it, then try and start it. The mini should start a few times before the battery starts to die. This proves your battery can hold current.

I would then run the car and check your alternator before the rectifier. You should get an AC signal slightly higher than battery voltage. This is then rectified and charges the battery. Measuring your battery whilst the car is dead, then running is a good way to get an idea if your alternator signal is reaching the battery.

[OJM]

Cheers Neilos. How do I check the alternator?

[mini_kel]

With the car running the voltage should read approx 13.5-14.2 volts tested at the battery!

To be honest if it takes four attempts to start the car it doesn`t sound like the battery!

Edited by mini_kel, 01 September 2008 - 08:57 AM.

[OJM]

Yeah, I'm kind of clutching at straws at the moment. To start the car, I basically have my foot planted on the accelerator, then attempt to get it to start. Once it kicks in, it'll obviously rev pretty high, until I release my foot, then it'll sometimes splutter and die out. After a couple of goes, it'll stay running and idle past the bit of spluttering it has. Once that's done, it's fine.

Any ideas? Anything I can check? I don't really want to take it to a garage at this point...for the obvious rip off reasons.

[Mephiston]

the splutting could be to do with the choke mechanism - make sure the cable hasnt snapped - and if its still splutters trynot pulling it out all the way sometimes that over fuels - (with mine it does anyway) i only need to have it out about half way for it to fire then 2 mins down the road and i can push it fully in

and as probably menshioned check all the earths are properly connected and all the components attached to the batter and starter solinoid are attached firmly

[OJM]

Already checked all earths, taken off and cleaned, and nothing unusual. Unfortunately / Fortunately, mine doesn't have a choke - '94 SPI.

[Beats]

The engine earth strap (or bad connection of said strap) has caused many a flat battery.

[OJM]

Is that the one on the left hand side of the engine, from the bottom to the back (off the top of my head)? Had that off and cleaned

Could a dirty fuel filter cause these kind of problems? I've put a couple of bottles of injector cleaner through it in the past, but didn't make any difference - not sure if that would clean the filter of muck though.

Edited by OJM, 01 September 2008 - 12:47 PM.

[Neilos]

Mate, that sounds more like a carb issue.

id check the linkage is working for your choke (as mentioned above) and also there is a screw in the side of the carb which sets idling, this may need adjusting. If its too low, the car wont idle and keep stalling, if its to far in, it will idle on a very high revs.

saying that...if you have an ECU this could be a sensor problem. Other than that, im not sure.

[Neilos]

Mate, that sounds more like a carb issue.

id check the linkage is working for your choke (as mentioned above) and also there is a screw in the side of the carb which sets idling, this may need adjusting. If its too low, the car wont idle and keep stalling, if its to far in, it will idle on a very high revs.

saying that...if you have an ECU this could be a sensor problem. Other than that, im not sure.

[OJM]

It's an SPI

Edited by OJM, 02 September 2008 - 07:57 AM.

[mini_kel]

Is there not a mini friendly garage near you? I think this is a sensor fault!