13 replies to this topic

[mattvallins]

Anything I should know before I strip the motor out of my car and take the box and diff off it? Its got a really bad oil leak
The gaskets are on the way from Southampton and will be at the shop around 4pm today, so my car will be off the road from then! Hopefully gonna be done by Wednesday and bedded in by Friday for Dragwars :tongue:
I thought I'd better fix the leak so I dont leave half a gallon of oil at the stand :saywhat:

[Purple Tom]

probably the most important thing you should know is not to rush.

Work methodically, at your own pace, and work cleanly. Don't rush it to get it ready, it'll only cause you heartache later on when you have to take it apart again because you've missed something, I speak from experience here!!

Work out a rough schedule on your head, and its a good idea to make sure you have all the tools/parts/help you need before you start. The last thing you want is to be calling mates up because you need help doing something, or realising you need a double-reversing-doodle-snatcher at 9.30 at night :grin:

[mattvallins]

I am lucky, I know if anything goes wrong then my mate 2 doors down will know what to do :tongue:
He restores classic cars, everything from Triumph TR3s, 4s, 5, STags (his favorite), he has done cooper s's, he has all the tools I could want :tongue:
A priceless friend :cool:
Cheers for the not rushing thing tho, thats the sort of thing I do sometimes.....

[royallingham]

Where is the oil leaking from ? Most gearbox leaks can be fixed IN the car - no need to pull the engine out.

[vasi]

realising you need a double-reversing-doodle-snatcher at 9.30 at night :grin:

These can be substitued by clamping with molegrips and beating repeatedly with a hammer.

Otherwise, sound advice.

[mattvallins]

Mole grips and lump hammer are standing by :tongue:
Its leaking oil from pretty much everywhere Loses over a pint every hundred miles, but it aint burning any so I want to keep the engine! I checked underneath the oither day and it had spread oil all the way to behind the gearstick along the transmission tunnel, so its hardly surprising that I cant keep the oil above "minimum"
Gonna get oily tomorrow :grin:

[royallingham]

It will likely be the drive shaft oil seals - and maybe the gear shift seal too. These can both be fixed easily IN the car !! Unless you have some other pressing need to pull the engine - just fit new seals - it's easy !!
And it will be seals you need - not gaskets.

[Dan]

Don't take the diff or either of it's sideplates off unless you really really have to, you'll need to re-shim it afterwards if you do and if you don't have shims then you could be in trouble.

I agree with Royalingham though, it's usually the driveshaft seals which cause this. The gearbox to engine joint is very rarely the source of an oil leak.

[Guess-Works.com]

As has been said, it usually is the seals, but the other favourite is the O/S end plate which not only is reliant on a rubber O ring to maintain the seal but is normally also atached to the exhaust, and this will, overtime, work the bolts and end plate loose. likewise with the front engine steady from the transfer case to subframe, but more common than not, it's the bracket which breaks first.

Suggestion, jetwash the underside of the engine/box first then see where the oils comming from.

[mattvallins]

I have washed the underside of the motor and oil appears from various places round it. I have a flip-front so its easier to take the motor out than mess around underneath it all day. I think the driveshaft seals may be leaking, but that is definatley not all. Its throwing huge amounts out, all down the block and all over the box casing.
I want to open the gearbox up too, because I am worried about some nasty noises and why it doesnt like finding 2nd gear. Its not a synchro issue but its just like its a blanking plate
Its ready to lift out now, just gonna go borrow an engine crane from a mate

[Purple Tom]

it would be an idea to change the tappet chest covers too, assuming its a 998. These have a habit of getting warm and the rubber seals degrading, then they leak. Easy job to change them when the engine is out!

[mattvallins]

Thinking about it, that may be the main leak.......... The gasket set has 2 cork seals for them, I'll do that.
Thanks for the tips!

[Dan]

Ooooh, don't use the cork ones they're crud! Use the nice red rubber ones, they're only about a quid and a half each and they're loads better especially with a smear of silicon. The most important bit of the tappet chest though is the centre bolt seal (a little rubber ring which fits into the cup washer on the bolt). Since the chest is the oil return, oil runs down the inside and hangs up on the bolt then pours out through the hole.

Where'd you get this gasket set exactly? These seals have been rubber for years and years. If this set is of less than top quality then you'll definitely need to re-shim the diff after you take the side plates off as the side gaskets will be thinner than the old ones.

[mattvallins]

I go tthis set from a motor factors yesterday
I have replaced the tappet chest seals, and am gonna try that for now as well as tightening everything up. I have no time for a full rebuild before drag wars :grin:
If it works then great, otherwise I'll keep the can of oil in the boot :grin: