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SPI Cooper problems


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#16 Dan

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Posted 18 July 2005 - 11:20 AM

Yes, that's what I was going to suggest. You need to re-index the stepper motor every time you disturb the cable or it just won't run right. Also, you should re-set the ECU when changing any major component. It's got a learning programme which will learn how to use your new components properly, but it learns much faster from being re-set than from it's old map. That's why I asked if you used your old ECU.

#17 funkygibbon

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Posted 18 July 2005 - 12:11 PM

Do you know how to reset the ECU? is it safe to to that? i don't want to make it worse than it is, or break the ECU... But a full reset sounds like it could be a winner, and reseting the Stepper unit! By the way, what does the Stepper unit do???

#18 Jammy

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Posted 18 July 2005 - 12:21 PM

Press the accelerator 10 times with the ignition switched on whilst rubbing your stomach and patting your head say Rub a dub dub....


Ok, so the last bit you don't have to do, but it might help?!

#19 Dan

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Posted 18 July 2005 - 12:34 PM

With the ignition switched on but the engine not running you press the throttle fully open (until it hits the stop where there is a little sensor) five times within ten seconds (check that with someone else, it's been a while). That does everything I think. It won't break the ECU, it's what you are supposed to do when you change components. You need to re-index the throttle as if you don't the ECU doesn't know exactly where you have the throttle set to and so it can't give the right amount of air for the fuel

#20 Jammy

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Posted 18 July 2005 - 12:38 PM

Ahhh, I got it a bit wrong then!!

#21 funkygibbon

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Posted 18 July 2005 - 08:57 PM

Right, i did all that, it seemed to be alot better for a while but after about 5 mins it had a bit of a relapse, i think it is just missing slightly now. i think it's better than it was, so it must be something to do with the way it's set up. at the weekedn i'm going to reset the ignition, valve clearance, ECU, and throttle cable again.... do you know what the valve clearances should be? the maual says 30-35 though! but i saw someone else was quoting 12?? also my car had a little condensor looking thing on it when i took it apart and i haven't put it back on! does it need to go on?? it was connected to the coil and held in place on the coil bracket... i wanted to buy a new one but i couldn't find anywhere that sold it and it didn't come with the new coil so i assumed that it wasn't needed.

#22 Sprocket

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Posted 18 July 2005 - 09:20 PM

That condesner should be fitted. It surpresses the electrical interferance generated by the ignition system firing. Electronics don't like electrical interferance as does you neighbour trying to watch Corranation Street with fuzzy white lines travelling down the screen while you let the engine run on the drive :lol:

#23 Sprocket

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Posted 18 July 2005 - 09:39 PM

Oh and have you tried this http://www.ilexa.co....pic,5233.0.html

#24 funkygibbon

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Posted 18 July 2005 - 09:48 PM

Maybe i just need to stop my bitching and get out on the road with it!!! perhaps that's all it needs then, i good ride around to sort itself out!!!! Will you guys be going to MITP in August.... I think i owe you a beer for all your help.

#25 SpecialK

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Posted 18 October 2007 - 10:31 AM

Hi, could someone please clarify how you reset the ECU for me? and is it safe to do so

Cheers

Steve

Edited by SpecialK, 18 October 2007 - 10:31 AM.


#26 Mini_Magic

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Posted 18 October 2007 - 10:36 AM

Hi, could someone please clarify how you reset the ECU for me? and is it safe to do so

Cheers

Steve


Turn the ignition on, don't start the engine, and stamp the accelerator 10 times. Then turn off the ignition.

Perfectly safe (I believe it floods the engine so when you try to start it again the ECU resets).

#27 Sprocket

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Posted 18 October 2007 - 05:37 PM

Wow, that is a wonerfull ritual, where did you learn that?


The ONLY way to reset the ECU is by connecting a diagnostic service tool!!

Depressing the accelerator pedal with the engine not running, but ignition on will never flood the engine, the injector is not operating!

;)

#28 SpecialK

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Posted 28 October 2007 - 06:03 PM

Wow, that is a wonerfull ritual, where did you learn that?


The ONLY way to reset the ECU is by connecting a diagnostic service tool!!

Depressing the accelerator pedal with the engine not running, but ignition on will never flood the engine, the injector is not operating!

>_<



Hmmmmm, so there will be no point doing it then!!! LOL ah well back to the garage :thumbsup:

#29 Sprocket

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Posted 28 October 2007 - 06:25 PM

Thats right, it does nothing than make you look daft, the person who started this off is laughing and he is the only one, i myself have done it before i knew any better

if you have a problem have a look here and discuss it

http://www.theminifo...p?showforum=140

#30 chairchild

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Posted 28 October 2007 - 06:57 PM

pressing the throttle 10 times, is apparently how you reset the TPS, as they wear over time, and this lets the ECU know what values it gives for fully open, and fully closed


Replace the Vac pipes with new ones, as even the smallest split can cause a lot of problems - also check that the fuel trap isn't cracked.

Another thing to check if it's repeadedly revving up and down, but in a steady rythmm, is to check that you either haven't got the throttle cable too tight, keeping it open when your foot isn't even on the pedal, or that the switch on the accelerator pedal is working properly



If you try to just rev the engine from inside the engine-bay, it'll just rev up, then drop back down to idle every few moments. This is because it knows that the accelerator pedal isn't depressed - why it does this, I couldn't tell you, but it's something which can happen if the cable has been adjusted too tightly




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