Possible Charging Fault
#1
Posted 19 November 2008 - 06:05 PM
Basically i was driving for around 40 minutes last night, the first time in the dark. i had my intercoms on constantly and had my lights on for around 30 minutes. Thing is i slipped of the clutch and stalled i tried turning it over but it was very slow . i turned all the lights off and intercom but still really weak. in the end it had to be bump started. I had a look at the battery voltage and it was 11.5volts. started it today with jump box on checked charge. It was chargin at 12.5? I know yestrday it was 13.1 volt.
What im asking is... is the charge system of the r1 able to cope with all that or have i got a problem? the fact that is was only charging at 12.5 volts today kinda makes me think i have. What could it be?
#2
Posted 19 November 2008 - 11:06 PM
alright everyone, ive not posted for while. I have a bit of a problem........ well i think i have!
Basically i was driving for around 40 minutes last night, the first time in the dark. i had my intercoms on constantly and had my lights on for around 30 minutes. Thing is i slipped of the clutch and stalled i tried turning it over but it was very slow . i turned all the lights off and intercom but still really weak. in the end it had to be bump started. I had a look at the battery voltage and it was 11.5volts. started it today with jump box on checked charge. It was chargin at 12.5? I know yestrday it was 13.1 volt.
What im asking is... is the charge system of the r1 able to cope with all that or have i got a problem? the fact that is was only charging at 12.5 volts today kinda makes me think i have. What could it be?
I know that on the Hayabusa, when using the lights / heater / radio... the rectifier / generator connections will melt. Take a look at the connectors. Sportbike charging systems are not made for all that load.
#3
Posted 20 November 2008 - 07:15 AM
Infact when i bought the engine the rectifier wiring wasnt brilliant. The power wire connection had melted and discoloured. Think i will order up a new 1 litte loom. So is there nothing you can do about this? What happends if you get caught in a big downpoor and need your wipers for a long period??
#4
Posted 20 November 2008 - 04:35 PM
#5
Posted 20 November 2008 - 05:11 PM
#6
Posted 21 November 2008 - 10:53 PM
they seem to charge at 13 to 14 volts if the battery is in good state of charge
once it slips down a bit then they go off pretty quickly
weve just built a high spec monte carlo for a customer its turbo charged and we struggle with those to crank them fast enough when hot etc so we took the descision to put tow batteries on it
its fantastic now as the starter whips the engine over at 600 rpm normally they are at 250 to 300
i would look at maybe fitting either a small second battery or upgrade to a diesel car battery with a good bit of reserve capacity
chris
#7
Posted 21 November 2008 - 11:25 PM
#8
Posted 22 November 2008 - 02:00 PM
Any ideas?
thanksJust found this powervamp website we use this companies products to start our 27ltr dump trucks and it seems to do th trick!! Just wondered if anyone has used the powervamp batteries on their cars?
Edited by dean_chad, 22 November 2008 - 02:11 PM.
#9
Posted 22 November 2008 - 06:20 PM
what chris said about putting a car batt on is a good idea as there is loads of power for longer.
also bike batts have very thin plates in side so they do not last as long. if left for 1 month going flat the plates buckle and shorten the life.
if it was me i would put car batt on as i have worked with both types and the car one will last a lot longer
#10
Posted 03 December 2008 - 02:40 AM
A mini battery has about 33 A/hr. That means the battery alone can supply 33 Amps for one hour, 66 Amps for 30 minutes, 16.5 Amps for 2 hours etc...
The higher the A/hr the the better the battery will be.
If you find your main power lead from the alternator it melting/burning you need a bigger gauge wire. If you can find one then parallel two or even three wires of equal gauge between your alternator and your battery. If you use the paralleling method then you must ensure that the collective cross sectional area of the wires is greater than your original main power lead, else you'll be back where you started (preferably twice that of your original power lead, to be safe).
Hope this helps.
#11
Posted 09 December 2008 - 04:32 PM
chris
#12
Posted 09 December 2008 - 04:55 PM
chris, in researching other threads it sounds like just do the HD rectifier, no need to go uprated stator. was looking at oyher forums about Ricks systemsim going to get a ricks uprated alternator to see if they do the trick if they do it will be an easy mod to do its only half a dozen nuts and bolts and away you go
chris
#13
Posted 09 December 2008 - 09:14 PM
Edited by dean_chad, 09 December 2008 - 09:34 PM.
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