hi mate,
just a few quick questions....
i'm respraying my car, do i need to rub every tiny little cm down, or is it not as important for primer?
i understand that the effort i put in now will show in the end....but wasted effort is...well.....wasted! lol
also, ne tips for preping new bits of metal ie new welded patches? is it just a case of 320 wet an dry over...primer and then 400 over like the paintwork or is it different?
cheers
the basics
Started by
frostie
, Aug 03 2005 09:02 PM
11 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 03 August 2005 - 09:02 PM
#2
Posted 05 August 2005 - 05:55 PM
no help at all..... :erm:
#3
Posted 07 August 2005 - 09:15 PM
sorry mate a lot of us have been away theis weekend...... if you don't rub the paint down, then the new paint won't have a "key" to stick to the old paint and will peel really easy. bristol miniman is the expert and should be back soon...and sober
#4
Posted 07 August 2005 - 09:18 PM
Yeah it needs sanding down first, the people who sprayed my car before i got it didnt and the paint is flaking away.
#5
Posted 07 August 2005 - 09:20 PM
oohhh rite! lol that explains the delay! thanx
yeah sorry i shouldn't of named it "the basics"....because i sorta know the basics!
just w8in for the doc really....not sure what to do wiv bare metal!
yeah sorry i shouldn't of named it "the basics"....because i sorta know the basics!
just w8in for the doc really....not sure what to do wiv bare metal!
#6
Posted 07 August 2005 - 10:04 PM
every part needs rubbing down untill matt finnsih and not shiny anywhere
Bare metal needs to be etch primed and then filler primed with the rest of the car
plastic needs to be plastic primed as normal primer will stick at first and then slowly peel of after a month or two
Flat down with 400 grit wet and dry paper with loads of water with a bit of fairy liquid in all surfaces need to be smooth for the end paint finnish to be
there really is no such thing as wasted time when prepping for paint except when your inside eating your dinner get outside and get it bloody done;)
Bare metal needs to be etch primed and then filler primed with the rest of the car
plastic needs to be plastic primed as normal primer will stick at first and then slowly peel of after a month or two
Flat down with 400 grit wet and dry paper with loads of water with a bit of fairy liquid in all surfaces need to be smooth for the end paint finnish to be
there really is no such thing as wasted time when prepping for paint except when your inside eating your dinner get outside and get it bloody done;)
#7
Posted 08 August 2005 - 01:24 PM
cheers mate!
i was told 320 grit to begin with and then once i've primered it a quick rub down wiv 400grit.
so the etch primer doesn't need the surface rubbed down? i guess i still degrease the panel though rite?
i was told 320 grit to begin with and then once i've primered it a quick rub down wiv 400grit.
so the etch primer doesn't need the surface rubbed down? i guess i still degrease the panel though rite?
#8
Posted 11 August 2005 - 01:23 AM
degrease before every layer of paint as there is too much contamination in the air and i forgot to say never wet flat etch primer as it reacts with water thats why you can only dry flat it but i always filler prime over it and then block flat it smooth
alos 320 grit is alright but remember the rougher the paper the more scratches so to speak you have to remove later i only use 40 grit-320 grit when preping something for primer not on the primer of for rubbing down orriginal paint
alos 320 grit is alright but remember the rougher the paper the more scratches so to speak you have to remove later i only use 40 grit-320 grit when preping something for primer not on the primer of for rubbing down orriginal paint
#9
Posted 11 August 2005 - 06:38 AM
bare metal WILL need rubbing down before primering , we use 180grade paper (DA)on all new panels and bare metal even with self etch primer .
Also never use anything rougher than 600 to flat down your primer or colour coats espesialy if you are using air dry , you may get away with 400 if you force-dry (low bake) but only use 600 or finer if you dont have a spray booth (we only use 800) as when you air dry paint it takes longer to cure and is more likley to "sink"
Also never use anything rougher than 600 to flat down your primer or colour coats espesialy if you are using air dry , you may get away with 400 if you force-dry (low bake) but only use 600 or finer if you dont have a spray booth (we only use 800) as when you air dry paint it takes longer to cure and is more likley to "sink"
#10
Posted 11 August 2005 - 11:57 AM
thats ok then!
the car is being sprayed with water based in a booth(not by me), so 400 is ok!
cheers guys!
the car is being sprayed with water based in a booth(not by me), so 400 is ok!
cheers guys!
#11
Posted 21 August 2005 - 05:41 PM
sorry i didn't get back to you frostie, been very busy! hope this helps (woody's a painter too)
#12
Posted 21 August 2005 - 05:58 PM
no problems mate!
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