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FAQ, Ultimate cleaning/polishing guide


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#16 crazycoleman118

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Posted 20 March 2010 - 01:31 PM

a good ol fashioned snow foam is a good start to get rid of the majority of the harsh dirt and bird poo etc.... (sorry i know this is an old thread)

and to do all the wheels/ arches and door shuts first because hosing them down often sprays onto yournice clean paint work :)

#17 MattDuffy88

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Posted 01 April 2010 - 10:57 AM

www.detailingworld.co.uk has an enormous wealth of information on it from the latest product reviews to tutorials on how to polish properly.

Check out THIS video too.

With practise and hard work you can end up with an amazing finish!
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#18 beenaada

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 06:28 PM

There are a vast array of waxes on the market from paint sealants, carnauba waxes and cleaner waxes (all in ones). Waxes also come in paste and liquid form so, which is best for you?

#19 carts60

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 10:02 PM

This may be going WELL against general concensus, but i'm of the belief that you DON'T want water beading. Water beads when left to dry leave water marks on the paintwork which are only removed by a lot of elbow grease. I'v always been shown that waxes and polishes which don't bead, but sheet (more like what happens to water on a ducks back) are much better.

Waxes which repel the water and let it run straight off keep the car looking clean for much longer than waxes which cause the water to stick and bead.

The best example of what i mean is this: http://www.cvgreenho.../regular/18.jpg

Can somebody tell me if im right or totally wrong?

#20 danie garry

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 08:29 PM

This may be going WELL against general concensus, but i'm of the belief that you DON'T want water beading. Water beads when left to dry leave water marks on the paintwork which are only removed by a lot of elbow grease. I'v always been shown that waxes and polishes which don't bead, but sheet (more like what happens to water on a ducks back) are much better.

Waxes which repel the water and let it run straight off keep the car looking clean for much longer than waxes which cause the water to stick and bead.

The best example of what i mean is this: http://www.cvgreenho.../regular/18.jpg

Can somebody tell me if im right or totally wrong?



what wax's/polishes do this??

#21 sayli

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 06:51 AM

I've produced it out and caught it up in my shed on my cleanup products cupboard!

#22 zbc

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 10:57 PM

When I painted my Vespa an ex painter told me to wet sand, cut/polish the paint or clear coat then to really get an awesome shine rub some Brasso on.

It works too, apparently its a finer grit than the cutting compound.

After that I polished the paint, came up mint.

#23 Scoop77

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Posted 16 December 2012 - 09:03 AM

Brasso! Not for me.

This may be going WELL against general concensus, but i'm of the belief that you DON'T want water beading. Water beads when left to dry leave water marks on the paintwork which are only removed by a lot of elbow grease. I'v always been shown that waxes and polishes which don't bead, but sheet (more like what happens to water on a ducks back) are much better.

Waxes which repel the water and let it run straight off keep the car looking clean for much longer than waxes which cause the water to stick and bead.

The best example of what i mean is this: http://www.cvgreenho.../regular/18.jpg

Can somebody tell me if im right or totally wrong?



what wax's/polishes do this??


A couple of thin, and I mean thin, coats of most waxes or sealants will do this. What I think you pay more for is carnauba content and what ever is added to give longevity. I prefer waxes for dark colours and sealants for lite. My fave product for these dank and dirty months is FK1000P or SP1000P if you get it from Serious Performance. It's a sealant made from synthetic waxes. Lasts for ages. Amazing beading and protection. A tin won't break the bank and will last you years.

#24 hellom8

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 11:01 AM

I find if your going to clay bar a car, then doing a full decontamination before hand helps massively.

Snow foam, APC, normal wash and IronX before claying.

Once the car has been paint corrected, it's all about trying not to touch the paint as much as possible, which actually pretty hard to do.



#25 Mini 360

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 12:54 PM

The lack of activity in this thread highlights the 'Tcut it' approach Minis are regularly given haha!  Which is so wrong!!!



#26 Richard1

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Posted 17 October 2016 - 02:59 AM

I like Meguairs Ultimate both for its shine and ease of application. I can do my Corvair in 30 minutes, and this is how it looks 8 years after painting:

1960_Corvair-Richard.jpg

 

This is its effect on my Mini

 

stacks-image-26e0fd0.jpg

 

I use the Ultimate Detail spray for weekly cleanings if it is only light dust.






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