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Ht Lead Sequence


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#1 Nick Warwick

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Posted 13 April 2009 - 05:04 PM

Model: neon
Year: 1991
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible):

i have just fitted a 1275cc engine to my mini and set up the HT lead to the distributor to the plugs the same as my old engine (998cc) but i have firing issues, can anyone tell me what sequence they need to be in to solve this please

engine has a HIF38 carb and a stage 1 kit

Edited by Nick Warwick, 15 April 2009 - 11:15 AM.


#2 jayare

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Posted 13 April 2009 - 05:45 PM

The firing order is 1-3-4-2 and no. 1 (closest to radiator) is normally at around 1-2 O'clock as you look at the dizzy, assuming the drive is in correctly. If you are not sure, there are diagrams in Haynes showing the correct orientation for the drive and how to set it,

JR

#3 Nick Warwick

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 09:31 AM

we got the engine started once last night for a while but we didnt have the choke cable or accelorator cable put in to the carb to keep it going on its own without us moving it by hand, i think the timing is the worse issue making it hard to get the engine to turn over again, it saying in the haynes man you need a timing light from what i can remember

we have also changed the carb back to the carb i had on the 998cc (HS4) because the HIF38 just wont get the engine started no idea why but i think im just going to rebuild it then try it again anther day and see how the HS4 goes on with the 1275 engine

#4 rallymini1972

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Posted 15 April 2009 - 08:58 AM

Have you changed the dizzy? if so try turning it to different position and keep trying.
I have just put my metro 1275 eninge back in and had same problems, I had the wrong firing order.
The sparks go 1-4 starting at the rad end, the dizzy if you have vacuum advance with the mushroom shape at the top going round clockwise should be 1,2,4,3.
Hope this helps.
Dan

Edited by rallymini1972, 15 April 2009 - 08:58 AM.


#5 Nick Warwick

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Posted 15 April 2009 - 11:20 AM

ive been looking into what dizzy was on the 1275 when i got it and i think ive found it

http://www.minispare...=...3 HIF44 C...

how do i convert my old dizzy connections to this electronic dizzy set up?if that is if i am correct that this is the same dizzy, it does look the same as it has the plug/pins on the side

#6 karl & his cooper

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Posted 15 April 2009 - 12:01 PM

ive been looking into what dizzy was on the 1275 when i got it and i think ive found it

http://www.minispare...y=...3 HIF44 C...

how do i convert my old dizzy connections to this electronic dizzy set up?if that is if i am correct that this is the same dizzy, it does look the same as it has the plug/pins on the side



Out of the 3 pins only 2 are used, I cant tell you which 1's at the momment except the middle pin isnt used for anything. You have a coil negative attaching to 1 pin and a coil +ve on the other pin.

You need to remove the old pink/white balast ignition wire and another wire (Dan on here knows this as he helped me) You will need a 12v feed from the fuse box thats on when ignition as at II and this must have an inline fuse and you must use a non balast coil and use the special electronic ignition coil!

Hope this helps, I will get some pictures of my setup ive just done

#7 998dave

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Posted 15 April 2009 - 12:09 PM

Have you changed the dizzy? if so try turning it to different position and keep trying.
I have just put my metro 1275 eninge back in and had same problems, I had the wrong firing order.
The sparks go 1-4 starting at the rad end, the dizzy if you have vacuum advance with the mushroom shape at the top going round clockwise should be 1,2,4,3.
Hope this helps.
Dan


We say 1-3-4-2 asd the rotor arm spins anti clockwise.

You can get timing close by removing the plug from cylinder one, and turning the engine until you reach TDC with both valves shut. The idea is to find TDC at the end of the compression stroke / start of the expansion stroke.

Now you can see where the rotor arm is pointed, and you want to rotate the dizzy until the contact for cylinder one is in this same location.

To get timing better adjusted a timing light is much better.

Dave

#8 Nightrain

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Posted 15 April 2009 - 12:15 PM

Like this

Attached Files



#9 998dave

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Posted 15 April 2009 - 12:16 PM

Now I like that picture, think it'd be a good idea to put an FAQ together on this as it seems to come up quite a lot?

Dave

#10 scrumpymini

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Posted 15 April 2009 - 05:39 PM

I am also in the middle of putting a 1275 metro lump in my car, would be great if someone could do a installation guide showing all the bits you need to change over for example the mounts, speedo drive etc and also show how to wire up the coil and dizzy.
right who knows what they are doing so we can pick on them =]

#11 Nick Warwick

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Posted 15 April 2009 - 07:58 PM

Have you changed the dizzy? if so try turning it to different position and keep trying.
I have just put my metro 1275 eninge back in and had same problems, I had the wrong firing order.
The sparks go 1-4 starting at the rad end, the dizzy if you have vacuum advance with the mushroom shape at the top going round clockwise should be 1,2,4,3.
Hope this helps.
Dan


We say 1-3-4-2 asd the rotor arm spins anti clockwise.

You can get timing close by removing the plug from cylinder one, and turning the engine until you reach TDC with both valves shut. The idea is to find TDC at the end of the compression stroke / start of the expansion stroke.

Now you can see where the rotor arm is pointed, and you want to rotate the dizzy until the contact for cylinder one is in this same location.

To get timing better adjusted a timing light is much better.

Dave


thanks alot dave this is helping me understand it alot more, i will be having ago with the timing tomorrow after work


Like this


now this just made it even better thanks mate, i agree with dave it should be put into a FAQ

I am also in the middle of putting a 1275 metro lump in my car, would be great if someone could do a installation guide showing all the bits you need to change over for example the mounts, speedo drive etc and also show how to wire up the coil and dizzy.
right who knows what they are doing so we can pick on them =]


patience mate putting mine in was an arse, also found it easier to change the engine over but dropping the subframe out and then putting it back up with the engine on it

Edited by Nick Warwick, 15 April 2009 - 07:59 PM.


#12 998dave

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 07:20 AM

I am also in the middle of putting a 1275 metro lump in my car, would be great if someone could do a installation guide showing all the bits you need to change over for example the mounts, speedo drive etc and also show how to wire up the coil and dizzy.
right who knows what they are doing so we can pick on them :)


Should have done this last time I put one in, now both my Metro lumps are set up with mini mounts and ancillaries anyway.

Will think about it if I ever do it again.

#13 Nick Warwick

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 07:27 PM

just want to say that the photos helps get the timing about right so you can atleast get the engine started, it helped me get it started straight away, engine is now running very well thanks for the help everyone

#14 taffy1967

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 10:22 PM

And there's this picture for the really twp (as we say here in Taffyland. i.e. thick): -

Posted Image

:lol: >_<

#15 Nick Warwick

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 08:41 PM

And there's this picture for the really twp (as we say here in Taffyland. i.e. thick): -

Posted Image

:( :P



lol done in paint taffy?




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