Push Button Starter?
#16
Posted 04 September 2005 - 04:52 PM
:fear: :grin:
#17
Posted 04 September 2005 - 04:55 PM
#18
Posted 08 September 2005 - 06:52 PM
#19
Posted 08 September 2005 - 07:44 PM
#20
Posted 08 September 2005 - 07:50 PM
#21
Posted 08 September 2005 - 08:22 PM
If it's only isolating the starter switch from the starter solenoid it doesn't need to be high current rated, 10 amps will be plenty so use a toggle switch hidden somewhere, or just fit an alarm with immobiliser as that's what immobilisers do anyway.
I don't know what you are planning to do with the ignition barrel (and you might know this anyway) but I will just say that the steering lock is kind of a legal requirement for your vehicle.
#22
Posted 08 September 2005 - 09:28 PM
#23
Posted 08 September 2005 - 09:50 PM
I also have a starter switch/button arrangement. I've left the ignition key as normal but the last sprung stage no longer does anything as I've substituted that with the button.
So now to start my car is a cunning mix of kill switch keys remotes hidden switches and hidden immobilisers....... It's not going anywhere in a hurry :fear: :grin:
#24
Posted 08 September 2005 - 09:52 PM
....... It's not going anywhere in a hurry :fear: :grin: with big fat me in it
#25
Posted 08 September 2005 - 09:58 PM
<Eric Cartman Voice>
I'm not fat I'm big boned!!!!
Screw you guys I'm going home!!!
:tongue:
#26
Posted 08 September 2005 - 10:11 PM
Attached Files
#27
Posted 09 September 2005 - 12:16 AM
are they actually made to a good standard, some look a little "fragile" when ive seen them.
#28
Posted 09 September 2005 - 07:04 AM
All taken on board Dan, I was going to still use the ignition barrell for the steering lock, so I guess I may as well use that as the 'kill switch' and just get a toggle switch somewhere.That master switch you've got won't last long. They are a race part designed for disconnecting the power in an emergency not for use daily as a switch. They don't have a very big duty cycle. I'm not talking about the key wearing out either, the actual switch will fall apart. Many racers need to replace these during each season so in a road car you'd be lucky if it lasted a few weeks.
If it's only isolating the starter switch from the starter solenoid it doesn't need to be high current rated, 10 amps will be plenty so use a toggle switch hidden somewhere, or just fit an alarm with immobiliser as that's what immobilisers do anyway.
I don't know what you are planning to do with the ignition barrel (and you might know this anyway) but I will just say that the steering lock is kind of a legal requirement for your vehicle.
The master switch was a freebie anyway!
One thing I would say though, is that we do use these switches at work for a lot of applications and I've never had any reports of a failure. I would be interested to do some further testing on this, as I spec them sometimes for airship control panels etc as a master switch, maybe I need something a bit more reliable for that application. Then again, in that particular application, they are not a 'daily use' switch.
#29
Posted 09 September 2005 - 07:06 AM
#30
Posted 09 September 2005 - 07:17 AM
People will soon find out that you have a starter switch and can find a way to break in to your mini, do some adjusting of wires press the button and drive off!
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users