723 replies to this topic

[stevede]

After being on the forum for some time now and looking with interest at all the other projects I have finally bought a project car, a City 1000 1991. As the thread title shows, my youngest daughter thinks it's for her, but I know the truth!
The rebuild is going to take a while as I have to work outside and I don't have access to unlimited funds. I do however have some good friends and as the following posts and pictures will show their help is much appreciated.

Edited by stevede, 07 June 2009 - 07:16 AM.

[stevede]

Some of you may recognise this car as it has been featured on here before.
My plans are to strip the car completely, repair all the rust and rebuild using rebuilt or modified parts. The original 998 engine will remain for insurance purposes in the begining but I got a 1275 with the car which will be rebuilt for use at a later date.

Pics show car before strip down. Apologies if the pics don't fit right as i'm just getting the hang of how to post on the forum.







Can't seem to find the switch for the electric window !!

Edited by stevede, 07 June 2009 - 07:20 AM.

[Shifty]

I knew I recognised that car, thats Bens old one isn't it?

[stevede]

I knew I recognised that car, thats Bens old one isn't it?

That's right. Not sure what he'd think of it now though. I'll be adding some more pics over the next few days. There's not a lot left other than a bare shell & a generous helping of rust.

[stevede]

Quick update with a few more pics to show the work done so far.

Basically stripped the entire shell to find all the rust & rot ready for cutting out & welding new stuff in.

Rot all around the rear of the boot floor, on top of one of the wheel arches, front floors and the inner and outer sills. A lot of work but not as bad as some I looked at. The front end will also need complete replacement.

At least at the end I will have a solid shell that should last for a good few years.





The bodywork all seems pretty original except for a few patches. I think it even has the original sills although they're well gone.







Both floors at the front have holes. (Drivers has been badly patched). Inner sills look okay but are very weak in places.





Inner wing around the drivers vent has rotted through but the passenger side almost looks like new.



A small hole at the top of the A pillar probably caused by the piece of sponge inside.







Drivers rear arch at the top rotten and both boot corners and along the back join. Valance seems reasonable.





Subframes out. Front is fine. The rear is new but a repro rather than an original.

Edited by stevede, 07 June 2009 - 07:36 AM.

[stevede]

With the shell fully stripped the little car was sat waiting for the next stage



I wanted to be able to turn the car on its side to get at the underneath easier. I told my pal that I had seen a "spit" kit for sale and that it looked good value.

He kindly suggested that he could make one at work for free so Sunday's job.


Some used steam pipe


Cut to size and welded to some angle iron


Bit more to make some legs


The nearly finished product


Testing it out.


Other daughters car looking on







If anyone wants more pictures or dimensions of the spit, let me know. It will be for sale once I have finished with it but that may be a while yet.

Edited by stevede, 26 May 2009 - 09:23 PM.

[LankyJames]

Impressive spit! Should help repairign the floors easier!

[stevede]

Bit of an update on progress.



Got the battery box out with a spotweld drill bit



Started to clean up the underide so I could see where all the rot was. It has a sort of wax type coating on the underside, I don't know if this was standard or an aftermarket treatment. It seems to have done a reasonable job of keeping some of the rust at bay.





Rear valance off. The closing panels and valance itself were quite solid making me think that the rot was a result of a water in the boot.





Most of the rot cut away so I can judge what panels are needed.



Replacing the arch could be interesting. It's only rotten at the top so I think I will buy an arch section and make a patch from it. If anyone has any other suggestions on how I could repair this I'd be glad to hear them.





Couple of other small patches but the worst is at the rear. Heel board looks fine.

Edited by stevede, 07 June 2009 - 07:56 AM.

[Ethel]

I'd have a really good scrape/brush round the arch and shocker top mounting. They can look solid but hide some deep rust pitting or be pretty rotten under the shocker mounting reinforcement.

[stevede]

I'd have a really good scrape/brush round the arch and shocker top mounting. They can look solid but hide some deep rust pitting or be pretty rotten under the shocker mounting reinforcement.

Thanks for the advice Ethel.

I have stabbed hard with an old screwdriver and the shock mount and all the other metal around is solid.

Edited by stevede, 07 June 2009 - 07:22 PM.

[stevede]

Quick update

Some new panels for the back end



And a new toy, courtesy of my pal. Signed up with BOC for Argoshield which seems to be worth every penny. Much easier to weld with than CO2 and cheaper than disposables.



Let the fun begin!

[stevede]

Latest progress update


Cut out more of the rusted area to make sure we were welding on to solid metal




New panel "test fitted". I opted for patern panels but the fit is not great.



My first attempt at welding under the supervision of my pal. The roll over spit makes it much easier.


First panels in and solid





Guess which side I welded!

Back hinge panel which is a genuine item as they didn't have the copy. The fit is much better and I have since been back and swapped the rear valance for a genuine part.


We fullly seam welded the boot floor section to the back panel as I am not having bumpers and I wanted this joint to be rock solid.


Lastly, the battery box. Again not the best fit because of the panel shape but its never going to fall out!


A trial fit of the rear subframe saw the holes in the replacement panels a mile out. After measuring and double checking the correct fit on the subframe, 2 3mm plates were cut and welded on in place of the original support plates. A final check and then we drilled new holes through.



The rear flange has now been cut off ready to accept the new heritage rear valance. Then the whole area will be ground and dressed before sealing and zinc primer.

The wheel arch should be here at weekend then with a couple more holes filled the back end should be done.

Has anyone any suggestions for the best paint to use as a base. I am thinking of using stone chip in the boot area and on the underside prior to painting body colour. All alternatives, suggestions & ideas welcome.

[rosco454]

Boot area coming together nicely mate.Whats the overall plan for the car?

Also how are you keeping the shell in place once spun on the spit?

[stevede]

Boot area coming together nicely mate.Whats the overall plan for the car?

Also how are you keeping the shell in place once spun on the spit?

Thanks Rosco, It's getting there slowly. My welding is very slow as it's all new to me.

Regards the spit & rigidity. So far we have only cut the boot. We put the side panels in first and then tacked what was left of the original panel accross the 2 whilst we replaced the hinge panel. Then we cut out the rest of the floor and welded new in.

Regards the spit & holding it in place at different angles. More by luck than judgement 2 wheels, one on top of the other placed level with the rear door pillar holds the car up on either side. We drilled a couple of extra holes in the crossbar so we could alter the height if needed. My pal reckons that a large bolt screwed through the pivot will hold it at any angle but I'm not convinced as there's quite a bit of weight, especially with a subframe on.



Plans for the car. I like the new mini pepper white with a black roof. Zoe wants bright orange which i quite like also. De-bumpered and will probably keep the 12" wheel size (maybe a 6") as I'm not too keen on the big sports pack arches, something like revolution 4 spoke. The 998 will be going back in for insurance purposes (Zoe) and the 1275 I got with the car will be rebuilt over time and go in at a later date.

Going to put on new suspension & hi lo's but will rebuild and keep the standard 8.4" discs for now.

[daveeeeee]

I quite like the yellow Looks like you've got a good welding tutor, and that spit looks good, I could do with both of those!

If you don't mind could you take a pic of the rear subframe mount from inside the boot? I'm interested to see how you did it, I had the same problem but bought an old genuine one instead lol.

Also what are those wheels?

Keep up the good work.