130 replies to this topic

[sotiris]

Just measure how far the wheels (front will be different from rear) stick out from the body now as it is. Than measure how much (more) you need to "fill up" the arches. That will be what you'll need. Think it won't be a lot. This would kill your bearings anyways.

(all these crazy foreigners wanting to build bike powered Mini's... , I am doing the same in the Netherlands)

thanks when i will be ready with the first step of paint job i will do that....

Edited by sotiris, 23 July 2009 - 09:40 PM.

[sotiris]

here is
and the heart of the project........

but it give me new questions........

first.... hydraulic clutch, what must i make to work with thw petal.... must i buy a oem hydraulic from suzuki parts and patent this.....?
second...... gear ratio..... how many tooth front and how many rear gear.... i do not want top speed.....i want good power for 400 meter.... 125 miles i think is very top for me......

the engine is from b king 2008 1340 and the wheels are 175 50 13'' x 7''

third fuel pump.... and fuel pressure what preasure ????..... i will buy a Bosch pump and a fuel regulator

but what about the fuel level float "sensor"?????

fourth the engine instruments (gauges) is broken... can i buy an aftermarket without problem ??? ...i saw that some of you have nice instruments.....were can i find this.....??

tomorrow i will take a picture to confuse you a little ...lololol

[sotiris]

this is my think ... (about turbo the next year....)

Attached Files

•  __957___953___964___961___959_2.jpg   155.53K   22 downloads
•  __957___953___964___961___959_.jpg   166.26K   25 downloads

Edited by sotiris, 24 July 2009 - 07:57 PM.

[sotiris]

this is the gear ratio.....

Primary reduction ratio 1.596 (83/52)
Gear ratios
Low 2.615 (34/13)
2nd 1.937 (31/16)
3rd 1.526 (29/19)
4th 1.285 (27/21)
5th 1.136 (25/22)
Top 1.043 (24/23)
Final reduction ratio 2.388 (43/18)

any help about teeth front and rear sprocket?????????

Edited by sotiris, 24 July 2009 - 08:42 PM.

[sotiris]

nobody?

[SukiDawg]

here is
and the heart of the project........

but it give me new questions........

first.... hydraulic clutch, what must i make to work with thw petal.... must i buy a oem hydraulic from suzuki parts and patent this.....?
second...... gear ratio..... how many tooth front and how many rear gear.... i do not want top speed.....i want good power for 400 meter.... 125 miles i think is very top for me......

the engine is from b king 2008 1340 and the wheels are 175 50 13'' x 7''

third fuel pump.... and fuel pressure what preasure ????..... i will buy a Bosch pump and a fuel regulator

but what about the fuel level float "sensor"?????

fourth the engine instruments (gauges) is broken... can i buy an aftermarket without problem ??? ...i saw that some of you have nice instruments.....were can i find this.....??

1. Hydraulic clutch. Your best bet will probably be to use the master cylinder from the bike if you can - then the master and slave cyliders will be properly matched, a lot of people retain the hand operated clutch, because it can be difficult to get decent feel as the bike hydraulics are sized for hand operation. If you want to go down the pedal route, then knowing the required travel at the bike end would be a good start to matching master and slave.

2. I can work this out for you, I have spreadsheet for my project to caluclate overall ratio. Admittedly its written to include a differential ratio, but assuming you are using a chain driven diff (i.e. the diff ratio IS the sprocket ratio) I can tweak it to match. I've started to do this for you - but I could do with knowing the following: a) What is the rear tyre size for the bike, b) what is the maximum speed of the bike in one of the gears (usually top speed in each gear is published by the manufacturer) c) what is the maximum engine speed, d) what is the standard sprocket ratio of the bike

In order to confirm the spreadsheet is correct I first work out the gearing as it is in the bike, i.e. engine speed to road speed and check this against standard published data for the bike. Once this is correct I can trust what the spreadhseet tells us, I have further columns for the bike engine in the car which take account of the different tyre size and final drive ratio etc. I've modified the spreadsheet to work in terms of sprocket teeth for you - so I will quickly be able to tell you what the effect of adding or removing teeth will be. I've posted a screendump below with assumed numbers for the things I don't know to give you an idea.

3. I don't know what bike a "b king" is, but assuming you are planning on using the bike ECU you will have to find out what the original fuel pressure setting was. I am not sure about modern bikes, but a lot of modern cars use variable fuel pressure, managed by the ECU. If that is the case then you'll find you really need to use exact same setup as the bike. A good way to tell if this is the case - is there a pressure regulator on your fuel rail at the moment? What is the setup of the fuel system on the stock bike? Is it a returning system or dead end?

4. Again - knowing exactly what bike the engine is from would help. If you are using the standard bike ECU you are probably stuck with the standard dash. It most likely works by CAN message anyway (again, this is if modern car technology is the same for bikes).

Dave.

[sotiris]

(first of all i found the manual .......)and i found a lot of thinks

1) i will try to find the oem bike hand operated clutch and i will retain with the petal....



2)Primary Drive 1.596 (83 / 52)
Final Drive Ratio 2.388 what is the standard sprocket ratio of the bike (43 / 18)
Rear tyre size 200/50-ZR17
9,500 rpm rev limit
80 mph in top gear shows 4,000 rpm on the tach.

Primary reduction ratio 1.596 (83/52)
Gear ratios
Low 2.615 (34/13)
2nd 1.937 (31/16)
3rd 1.526 (29/19)
4th 1.285 (27/21)
5th 1.136 (25/22)
Top 1.043 (24/23)
Final reduction ratio 2.388 (43/18)


3)Fuel System
The fuel delivery system consists of the fuel tank (1), fuel pump (2), fuel filters (3) and (4), fuel feed hose (5), fuel
delivery pipes (6) including fuel injectors (7) and (8), fuel pressure regulator (9). There is no fuel return hose. The fuel
in the fuel tank is pumped up by the fuel pump and pressurized fuel flows into the injectors installed in the fuel delivery
pipe. Fuel pressure is regulated by the fuel pressure regulator. As the fuel pressure applied to the fuel injectors (the
fuel pressure in the fuel delivery pipe) is always kept at absolute fuel pressure of 300 kPa (3.0 kgf/cm2, 43 psi), the fuel
is injected into the throttle body in conic dispersion when the injector opens according to the injection signal from the
ECM.
The fuel relieved by the fuel pressure regulator flows back to the fuel tank


Injector resistance 11 – 13 Ω at 20 ΩC (68 ΩF)
Fuel pump discharge amount 220 ml (7.4/7.7 US/lmp oz) and more/10 sec.
Fuel pressure regulator operating
set pressure Approx. 300 kPa (3.0 kgf/cm2, 43 psi)


4)suzuki b king is a 1340cc engine the same with hayabusa.....
the ecu i will use is the oem "b king"
with the same hayabusa 2008 fuel system


Engine: 1340cc, 4-stroke, four-cylinder, liquid-cooled, DOHC, 16-valve, TSCC*
Bore Stroke: 81.0 x 65.0mm*
Compression Ratio: 12.5:1*

Edited by sotiris, 26 July 2009 - 07:11 PM.

[SukiDawg]

Hey,

OK, I've changed things around a little, and with the numbers you gave I have exactly 80mph at a tiny bit under 4300rpm, so allowing for tyre rolling radius and speedo inaccuracies I reckon we can trust this..

I've taken a range of sprocket ratios and worked out Vmax in each case for a 9500rpm engine running with the data you supplied...




Let me know if you can't read it properly...


Dave.

[sotiris]

18/43 118 miles

i think there is a mistake to the plan...


difficult thinks for me......lolol

[sotiris]

hi again

my mini is for paint job.....we will wait for pics.....


so.... were can i find this dash...????

[Rosslin Racing]

In the for sale "the stig" sells them, getting him the cash is going to be fun!

[sotiris]

thanks i spoke with him...!

[sotiris]

here is 3 pics.....

-we put the front panel.....
-the doors
-the bonnet from abs mini "s" style
-we make interior exterior welding jobs
-the boot like the fiber one....."smooth"
-i close the gear level hole... and i will make a new one like console ....


and tomorrow we will scratch the surface in and out......

Attached Files

•  30082009125.jpg   90.68K   17 downloads
•  metopi.jpg   84.14K   14 downloads
•  kapopin.jpg   85.75K   15 downloads

Edited by sotiris, 30 August 2009 - 09:32 PM.

[sotiris]

i cut the bumber holder from the front panel....

Attached Files

•  kapos.jpg   100.21K   14 downloads

Edited by sotiris, 31 August 2009 - 07:51 PM.

[sotiris]

this is the color i decide to paint the mini.....

the opel opc corsa blue with black miglia arches and black front grilles
also i will paint the rollcase and bars with the color of the second pic....

i thing will be very nice......

Attached Files

•  steinmetz_opel_corsa_opc.jpg   119.72K   6 downloads
•  min4.JPG   1.3MB   29 downloads

Edited by sotiris, 01 September 2009 - 01:57 PM.