Jump to content

- - - - -

Door issues!

  • Please log in to reply
4 replies to this topic

#1 Pavel


    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,451 posts

Posted 20 March 2004 - 01:39 PM

Went out today and cleaned out Stacy since my angle-grinder-purchasing trip was not so successful.

So I decided to bring the interior back to its original condition. That went with no problems

There are two things that really bug me a lot:

1) The driver's side door half the time rebounds back when you try to close it. It pops back to the semi-open position. You really have to slam it to get it to close. I suspect its the hinges since if I grab the door at the top and at the bottom and try to lift it up, it moves a bit, and the play is in the hinges since where the hinge mounts to the a-panel there is no movement... I can get hinges off another car, but what I want to know is how easily are they replaced and what needs doing?

2) My passenger side door closes fine (not like the driver's side problem mentioned above). However when it is fully closed (lock-wise) there is still a few mm gap between the door and the rear panel!!! If I push my body weight against the door when it's closed it moves further in a bit, but is immediately pushed back out. Like I said, it's not popping out of the lock because its completely closed and locked like this, but its still protruding, and can be pushed further in.
This is really peeing me off for some reason, and I want to do something about it. After looking at the white lock box at the back of the door, it doesn't seem like its adjustable. Anyway I can somehow let the door close when its further in?

Thanks eveyrone :cool:

#2 Woody


    Ring Runner 2005

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,763 posts

Posted 20 March 2004 - 04:51 PM

I hope this helps :
1, hinges are a pain to change , take the door off by un-doing the 4 7/16th nuts under the "A" panel (first take out the check strap pin ) best to soak these in WD40 a few hours first , expect at least 1 to shear off !, if you can , use a 6 sided socket , it is easier if you remove the wheel first . When the door is off you will need a good impact driver and big hammer, (again soak in WD40 for a couple of hours first) to remove the hinge . make a note of any shims that fall out and replace them in the same place .
2, you can adjust the door inwards a bit by slackening the striker plate screws a touch and moving the striker plate inwards , do this a couple of mm at a time untill a good fit is achieved, re-tighten the screws.

#3 Pavel


    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,451 posts

Posted 20 March 2004 - 05:01 PM

okay screw the changing hinges idea, i'll just wait till a good complete door with hinges comes up and ill change it together! (driver's door has a dent or two on it anyway)

As for the striker plate, I thought of that too, but isn't the striker plate countersunk (i.e. it'll self-centre itself no matter how you move it?)


#4 TimS


    Mini Doctor

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,712 posts
  • Local Club: TMF

Posted 21 March 2004 - 10:24 AM

it shouldnt be, the screws are counter sunk, and then go into the body work. The bar should move up and down aswell as in and out with no problem, iv had to ajust mine many times, and still my door rubs at the top lol.

#5 Pavel


    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,451 posts

Posted 21 March 2004 - 11:27 AM

Did that today! Took all of 30 seconds and made quite a difference :) Still sticks out a bit but nothing like before! woopie!

I just want to try and adjust the driver's one now up and down see if that does anything to the popping out. Only the screw heads are kinda stripped :) Don't want to strip them out completely! Might replace them with new ones if I get these out

Thanks for your help!

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

Mini Spares