6 replies to this topic

[tweety]

Hey all
rite im in the process of changing my starter from inertia (with the solanoid on the wing) to pre engage. The only problem is im not too sure which leads go where :S
On the original one there are 3 spade terminals. On the new pre engage there is only 2, one is a very big spade and the other is almost a normal size one. Now ive looked in my haynes manual an there are no real exploded diagrams to show me which spade goes where. I no that the 2 main leads (the ones bolted on the old inertia type) on on top of one another on the bog ass bold but im not too sure how the others go :S
I really cud do with an explination on what i have to do to chage from one to the other, or an exploded diagram of the pre engage.
Fast help would b kewl as i have a quick break between the showers :S
cheers guys

[Sutty01]

comone people help him out

[David_J]

Erm,
Right.

I'm not 100% on this but I've had a look at this site http://drcwww.uvt.nl...nual/wiring.htm which lists the wiring diagrams.


As I understand it the EXISTING solenoid has three wires. The brown one should be connected to the same terminal (no 3) on the solenoid as the BIG live feed from the battery and runs to the ignition switch where it supplies a live feed to the rest of the car! Leave it where it is!

The white and red wire on the solenoid supplies power FROM the ignition switch TO the solenoid and it is this one that needs to be transferred to the new smaller terminal on the starter motor along with a nice big heavy live wire to the larger terminal. I assume the new starter earths itself through the chassis and engine.


Hope that is correct and makes sense. Please try and follow what I’ve said and check it for yourself as I’m at work and so can’t refer to my hornet!


Edit: Your post was a bit garbled Tweety "bog ass bold"????? but the big Live wire is usually bolted onto the starter, the switching wire (small one) will have a spade terminal. It fell off once on my scimitar and my mates were very impressed with the speed that I managed to fix an apparently completely dead car! hehe

[marksmini]

nice find....

[siggy]

First check that you have the correct starter motor, count the teeth and make sure they are the same number as your old one.

The easiest way to convert is to leave the old solenoid in place. Disconnect the battery, then remove the lead to the starter motor and fasten it to the same terminal as the main battery cable. then extend the the wire from the igniton switch to the new starter.

Make sure that the solenod on the new starter clears the front panel and grill, ones made for metros have it pointing forward.

Siggy

[David_J]

Sounds like Siggy knows more than me !!

[Cooperman]

I'm a bit puzzled as to why you would want to go from inertia starter to pre-engaged. I've always believed the inertia type to be more reliable and easier to fix when necessary. The inertia type starter ring will fit onto the Verto flywheel.
Actually I'm just changing back from pre-engaged to inertia and from 9V coil to 12v on the Formula 1400 Enduro Rally spec 1990 Cooper 1275 I'm building for the RAC Revival rally next November.
With the old inertia type it's easier to fit the 13 row oil cooler without modifying the grille. With a separate solenoid it's easy to change if it gives trouble and with a 9V coil there is no risk of the 'pink' resistor wire burning out and taking half the rest of the front loom with it, which is what had happened to me a few years ago with a Mini 30 I was asked to help fix. A right pain in the derriere!
I'm also thinking of an Aldon 'Red' dizzy with points and condenser, as they are easy to change whilst on an event.