749 replies to this topic

[lawrence]

Update from yesterday pre night.

Put up a table outside so I could build my engine outside
20180505_095204 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr
Should have worn sun cream, bit burnt now!

Valves all lapped in. Seals are good. Took me a while and probably should have got them recut but I can't afford that ATM. If they leak too much I can always swop heads. It's not a massive hassle. But they do seal for now.
20180505_082758 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

Micrometer arrived. Shims measured. Ones on the left are a little small so won't be used.
20180505_094158 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

Everything cleaned up to be rebuilt
20180505_114852 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

Starting to build up the engine
20180505_122757 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

Head finished
20180505_133817 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

And as I left it yesterday. Lower chain is now fitted
20180505_150600 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

Timing cover is on in that photo but it still needs to be removed and sealant applied but I ran out of time yesterday. I'm working the next few days but have Wednesday morning and Friday all day to hopefully finish the engine. If all goes well the engine should be back in soon and I'll plan the mot mid June. I've got 17days off from work then holiday. Interestingly that will be the longest time off I've had for 4years!

Lawrence

[lawrence]

So guys, this morning.

20180506_164325 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

I managed to find time between my shifts to torque up most of the engine and fit sealant etc. Just got to torque up the camshafts and fit a few more seals and that's this mornings plan. I'm also going to pop out now and pick up some oil and a filter and some more degreaser spray. With some fingers crossed I may be able to get this engine into the car today. May. Watch this space as it's a half day!

Lawrence

[lawrence]

So engine is now all finished. Just needs to go back in the car :)
20180509_120405 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

Still potentially a chance to get the engine in the car today, depends how hot this sun is! Don't need to get more burnt!

[lawrence]

Got my engine in!
20180509_175948 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

Oil filter is now too big
20180509_182737 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

Exhaust and a few other bits fitted
20180509_192223 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

Might replace the thermostat housing with a dsn alloy one
20180509_192351 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

I've found a shorter oil filter and ordered one tonight. Engine went in lovely. Took a few mins which was nice. More Friday!

Lawrence

[lawrence]

Hello there people, time for another update. I didn’t do one last Friday because it wasn’t anything worth while was just various small bits.

 

So since the last update ive been putting the engine bay back together and sorting out various other bits and pieces.

 

Making a blanking plate for the bulkhead

20180511_113645 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

20180511_115222 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

20180511_121644 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

its made from a micra throttle plate!

 

Also got my new lights In the post

20180514_163712 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

20180514_164404 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

I really like them and don’t plan to tint them but they are currently off for a future project.

 

Short fat oil filter arrived

20180518_103147 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

much more room, fits perfectly. Any micra people who are interested in the part numbers etc let me know.

20180518_103547 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

cooling system is all in and the exhaust fitted for the last time. I did use the carbide burrs in the exhaust a little to help the flow but not much. Also wrapped part of it like before

20180518_120124 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

exhaust all fitted.

20180518_120133 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

slip joint works great!

 

Filled up with oil. Used a mix of a few different 10/40s I had kicking around as this is just some bedding in oil and im planning on changing it soon.

20180518_121558 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

So now its got oil and ive a partly charged the battery I thought I would spin it over with the plugs out. Oil pressure is all ok which is nice!

 

Compression test done also

20180518_130005 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

20180518_130106 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

20180518_130154 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

20180518_130248 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

All between 220 and 235. I know its with the engine cold but im more than happy with those sorts of number!

 

So im on holiday today but there will be more updates next week post pay day!

 

Plan-

New steel coolant pipe seal – one is ordered to be picked up from Nissan (mine is dripping)

Finish wiring for digidash and wire in new sensors.

Glue on magnets for speed sensor and extend the wiring

Re sync o2 sensor.

Re upload new engine specs to megasquirt

New HT leads have been ordered. One broke when I took it off the head. Ive got a chap making me some custom ones for my Nissan/ford setup.

 

That’s all for now. More in a few weeks time. Its looking like a mid june mot is still on the cards tho!

 

Lawrence

[lawrence]

So I had a holiday in th sun and topped my tan up
20180522_125421 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

Home now tho and back to mini
Wiper arms and spindles tapped and bolted to improve the fitment
20180525_133414 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr
Almost no slop in the wipers now too! Pretty happy with the little mod.

New washer system fitted
20180528_142928 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

And finished my wiring off
20180529_174436 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

The cats look on with baited breath.....! Soon she will start!
20180518_182900 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

Waiting on the HT leads and then I can start her up with the new engine.

All wiring etc has been checked, got a few little bits to do before the dash can go back in plus I'm leaving it out for a bit incase I need to get to the ecu. Speedo wiring and magnets all sorted tho.

New seal has arrived for the cooling system. Currently filled with water, will run it up to temp and then flush it out and refill will coolant

Next update the engine should be running!
Lawrence

[lawrence]

Update time!
HT leads arrived. They fit perfectly, still need to get a photo

Got a starting problem tho. Solenoid clicks but doesn't turn the engine.

After checking my battery was fine on the Peugeot that was ruled out. Power cable was ruled out. All earths removed and cleaned. That's ruled out.

Starter removed and bench tested. All fine. Was stuck. Investigated the power connections to the starter.
20180601_130920 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr
Grot as hell
20180601_134838 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr
Redone

Put everything back together and the engine now turns over.
But then it stopped. Don't know why. Battery removed to charge again and I'll assess it again next day off

New switch panel has arrived
20180601_102950 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

And fitted the centre console properly finally
20180601_193136 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

So next week I'll get the engine working. The starter may be sticking or I'm getting a voltage drop somewhere. I also need to buy or borrow a timing light the check my static timing for EDIS when the engine finally starts. I'll do this by disconnecting the SAW input to the module. I've got some easy start too which may help with the cold starts. Lastly I'm getting some massive backfires when cranking, pretty sure that's ignition timing hence cutting squirt from edis but when I finished with that wiring more the starter was sticking again. I'll check the engine timing too on the cams just incase and to rule it out.

That's All for now
Lawrence

[lawrence]

Right. Little update but it's not a great one

I took apart the starter motor to see if I could service it or check it. Thought the starter was the reason it wasn't behaving. Well it may have been an issue but it wasn't The main one. I also broke it. So bought a new starter.

Engine still isn't working.

Had a look at the cams. Saw this. Bugger
20180607_165331 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

Removed
20180607_175854 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

I had a little think and have decided to change the engine timing chain.

That's either engine out or cutting the frame in order to remove the sump. I'm going to have to make my mind up

All for now. Lawrence

[McMini 22]

What do all the buttons on the switch panel do and where did you get it?
I'm trying to think what to do with mine now that wipers and lights are on the column stalks.

[lawrence]

Good evening people, time for another update

 

Bits and pieces have been happening but not a lot. After this engine breaking i got a bit disheartened with her and had no end of trouble with the house purchase!

 

I ordered a timing chain kit. Not only did it take a week to arrive the kit that arrived was for a k12 engine which is completely different. Having then asked for the correct one to be sent im then informed they no longer stock any more. So im now waiting for another one to arrive from another person which not only costs more but Ive now got to faff sending the wrong one back!

 

So ive finished off all my wiring. New panel made for the ash tray hole.

20180611_150256 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

Top 3 are: Digi dash start log, Exhaust cutout, Digidash reset max values and acceleration time.

 

Bottom 5 are: Rear fog, heater, Horn, Hazzards and front fog.

 

Switch panel is from DSN classics and I asked them to drill it for me as a custom one, and buttons are ebay specials £3 ones. Ive got a few spares ordered in case they break but they seem good so far just discolour in the sun.

 

Last bit of wiring for the headlights. 20180614_115813 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

Just realised that the indicators and hazards don’t work without the drls being on. So had to faff about with diodes to get them to work. All fine now once I had worked out I had overheated a diode and ruined its resistance!

 

Some prototyping of the new rear light design im working on

20180615_125624 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

furry supervisor

20180615_133852 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

reverse bulb made. Its nice and bright but doesn’t dissipate the light around. Very direct.

 

Making a start on the removable part of my subframe. I decided I wanted to modify my frame instead of removing the engine. This will mean in the future if I want to modify the depth of the sump (to give more ground clearance) I can. 

20180617_120002 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

Rough design thought of in my head. Found a handy formed piece of thick steel to form the cross member

20180617_124249 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

gusseted to add strength

20180617_124257 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

painted

20180617_175206 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

shame its going to get cut up. Not quite sure why I top coated it to be honest!

 

Cut and rewelded

20180617_184549 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

20180617_184553 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

the inner pipe I used to align it and tack was only 1.5mm thick. So im welding a steel band around it that’s 3mm thick. Once fully welded and ground back itll look almost like it was bent from one piece of steel.

 

And mocked up on the car

20180617_185438 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

hugs the sump really well. Its held up with magnets which space it nicely and hold the part!

You can see the current bar is very square, this round one should deflect speedbumps etc if needed.

 

More on this tomorrow. Maybe my chain kit will arrive! Need to buy some more welding wire also.  Hopefully should be completing on the house tomorrow too! Move in date mid august! Gives me time to save but gives me money to spend on mini too!

Lawrence

 

 

[lawrence]

Right then, todays progress

 

Welding wire bought, can now continue 

 

Starting on the rear mount. Once I had decided how to mount the thing.

Cad template made but design changed when I thought about it more

20180618_114515 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

Where its going to be welded on.

20180618_114620 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

shoulder for the bolts 

20180618_120608 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

end boxing

20180618_141405 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

welded

20180618_141537 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

completed part ready to weld on

20180618_142647 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

welded and primed. The new mount overlaps the box section on both sides allowing me to get nice strong welds down the trough bit on either side.

20180618_150235 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

tacking the support bracket together

20180618_152034 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

removed and fully welded

20180618_154527 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

tidyed up and painted, I chopped the excess off and blanked it.

20180618_160403 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

Old support cut off and new bar in situ. It is removable fairly easily. Just had to tension the frame a little with a screwdriver to let the bolts go in. All nuts will be nylocks (when they come in the post) and the bolts are HT bolts for safety. 

20180618_174220 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

The frame did flex when I cut the original part off. I had drilled the holes for the front bolts when it was still in situ. Due to this I think im going to add some reinforcement on the passengers side and also run a brace from this new section to the other side of the fame under the car. Going to buy some more box section for this. Also going to add a second curved rail to the NS lower part of the frame. This will allow me to fabricate a sumpguard sometime in the future. 

 

Timing chain has now arrived and looks good. Ill get the frame sorted first and then when im happy crack on with fitting the new timing and double and triple checking everything on the engine!!

 

All for now. More tomorrow perhaps

Lawrence

[lawrence]

Time for todays update. 

 

Some negatives today but some positives.

 

So then - positive.

Sump pan off.

20180619_160622 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

going to be fun to clean and seal – negative.

 

All timing bits removed 

20180619_160630 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

new chain setup

20180619_161904 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

Hmm- an extra part that I didn’t take off. Is that a normal part – yes – that’s my spare engine with the original fitted

 

Your kidding me, how the flipping heck did I manage to not fit an entire part to the chain tensioning and not even notice!!!!!!!

20180619_174437 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

Well folks that’s part of the problem there, my lower tensioner (that’s modified – more on that later) was at its full distance and the lower chain was slightly loose – I really cannot work out how the hell I managed to do that.

 

So onward to the hi compression mods you have to do – these mods are only needed if you skim the head or block like I have (Ive skimmed the head 2ish mm I think it was)

 

The excess slack is in the lower chain because its now having to travel 4mm less. Meaning the tensioner needs to travel that 4mm to take the slack up. 

 

Opened up the runner hole so when fitting takes some slack up

20180619_175311 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

Opening up the travel on the tensioner – before

20180619_175841 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

After

20180619_180621 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

Ive now gained 1mm from the top runner and approx 3 from the lower tensioner -  that’s now offset the excess slack from skimming the head. Ive actually now got about 8mm of travel on that lower tensioner, more than enough for any engine wear but safe enough to run the engine.

 

In addition to those two things there is one last thing you can do to remove slack from the lower chain – the upper chain pulley mounts on a stud in the head and runs on a brass bush – if you open up where the stud mounts and where the bolt goes through you can then move the whole upper chain pulley up – that removes more slack from the lower chain but does transfer it to the upper chain where more issues can occur – fitting a new chain kit means you don’t have to do this. 

 

The last thing on the micra engines when you skim the head/block is retime the cams. When the head/block is skimmed, it retards the cams which you have to remedy.

 

So as fitted on the dot to dot method the engine should run even with a skim but it wont be at its best. 

20180619_185249 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

As you can see the inlet cam is a few degrees retarded – this can be easily rectified

 

Top tip from Frank over at MSC – advancing the inlet cam a few degrees give low down power at the 1k – 4k power range.  – for now im setting mine at standard

 

Take one dowel and file a flat 

20180619_185300 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

fitted 

20180619_190620 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

as you can see there is now space on the right of the dowel to advance the cam a few degrees

 

and before and after

20180619_185249 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

20180619_201647 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

Spanners are there because ive got slack that needs to be taken up by the hydraulic tensioner. The engine runs clockwise so as long as the slack is all by the tensioner and when you tension the cams like I have with spanners then your timing will be just about right

 

Little disclaimer – this cam timing is not accurate to the last degree it is very much a ballpark but can defo be used to re time a worn engine or a skimmed one.

 

That’s all for now people. Need to put it all together Thursday now. 

 

Lawrence

 

[l_jonez]

I removed a link from the chain when I did mine

[lawrence]

Cheers for the comment Lawson, I did contemplate that. On my last high comp engine I simply filed the lower tensioner and top runner like I have this time. I didn't fancy fitting a master link and adding a potential weakness to the chain. Plus I have no idea where to get one from!

I've done a few bits to her recently.

Engine timing is now completed so I torqued up all the bolts etc and refitted the timing cover, I'm hopeful it won't leak but due to its position and being un willing to take the head off I hope it'll be fine! If not the heads coming off, not the end of the world!

My plan for tommorow is get the sump back on. I'm not able to remove all the sealant unfortunately due to the frame design and no dropping the engine but I've bought some degreaser spray and have tested and the old sealant bonds nicely with the new stuff.

Fingers crossed the engine will go back together!

I also wasn't happy the other day about my ignition trigger wheel, it was a tooth out and that's adding extra complication.
So I cut the trigger wheel off and will reweld it in the right spot!
20180619_172052 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

And lastly after pay day I've bought this lovely little heater from t7 designs.
20180627_204710 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

It was what they recommended and it's one of their smallest heaters but still packs a punch. Fan should be nice and quiet also and I'll fit my PWM circuit to it to have a variable speed. I'll also be able to fit the Demist to pipes to it and in the winter can shut the lower vents to direct air straight at the windscreen!

Not planning to fit it right now as the current one works but has a tiny leak, I'll also need new hoses etc for it. So for now it'll be stored.

More updates tommorow night. Getting up early tommorow. It's going to be a full mini day all day and I want to get lots done!

Lawrence

[lawrence]

So todays update. 

 

Few bits of good and a few bits of bad like normal for me

 

Oil pan finally out 

20180628_110808 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

Only had to take the tie rod out

20180628_110816 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

and the lower bolt too.

 

Which promptly fubared the thread

20180628_114419 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

I had to use a carbide bit to remove the sodding thing! new one ordered

 

Trimmed the frame

20180628_111621 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

chunk removed

20180628_114414 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

ready for the sump on

20180628_130511 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

So I put the engine back together, exhaust back on. Everything back together. 

 

Need to put reweld the trigger wheel and get super unleaded too as ive drained the tank ready for it.

 

So ive managed to bend up the top of the radiator. I keep on putting my hands on it by mistake. So ive bent up the fins. So I bent them back as best I can and have made a protection panel for them

20180628_171353 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

panel made

20180628_170357 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

welded up

20180628_171357 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

painted. Attaches to the fan and sits on top of the rad on the foam that’s already there

20180628_171556 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

 

wrapped in heattape. Looks so shiny

20180628_173503 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

least I can put my hand on it and not ruin the fins anymore!

 

Lastly ive trimmed and tided the front part of the alternator mount.

20180628_185956 by Lawrence Balls, on Flickr

and welded on a reinforcement rod 

 

That’s all for now, more next week!

 

Lawrence