Gotta say DD thats looking superb!! :grin:
THE BUZZ WAGON!
Started by
Dick Dastardly
, Oct 04 2005 09:47 AM
315 replies to this topic
#33
Dick Dastardly
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Mini Mad
Posted 17 October 2005 - 10:12 AM
Need help guys.
Should be quite an easy one for anyone with a tandem master cylinder on their mini, but as I have never had this set-up before I'm a little lost.
I need to know what brake pipe goes where!- from the master cylinder there are 2 outlets, one 10mm, one 12mm. These then feed into the pressure regulating valve- but which way round? Also, from the valve- which goes to the front, and which to the rear?
Fundamental I know- but the consequencies of getting it wrong could be amusing/costly/painful!
Might be pushing my luck a bit this, but a photo would be REALLY useful....
Thanks in advance for any replies.
D.D.
Should be quite an easy one for anyone with a tandem master cylinder on their mini, but as I have never had this set-up before I'm a little lost.
I need to know what brake pipe goes where!- from the master cylinder there are 2 outlets, one 10mm, one 12mm. These then feed into the pressure regulating valve- but which way round? Also, from the valve- which goes to the front, and which to the rear?
Fundamental I know- but the consequencies of getting it wrong could be amusing/costly/painful!
Might be pushing my luck a bit this, but a photo would be REALLY useful....
Thanks in advance for any replies.
D.D.
#34
GraemeC
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Posted 17 October 2005 - 02:49 PM
This might help with one of the questions...
Left pipe is going to the front brakes, right pipe is going to the rear.
Left pipe is going to the front brakes, right pipe is going to the rear.
#35
GraemeC
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Posted 17 October 2005 - 02:55 PM
....and taken from http://www.gr8websit...erst/CC110F.htm
"Early-type front/rear split system master cylinders used the conventional Imperial threaded fittings. In these units, the lower/bottom port feeds the front brakes, the upper/top port therefore feeding the rear brakes. The later master cylinder (GMC227 - supplied as a replacement for the early types and requires a conversion pipe kit, sometimes identifiable by a yellow plastic band around the cylinder body) has metric threaded fittings with nuts of two different sizes - top one bigger than the bottom one. The conversion pipe kit is necessary because the piston functions (and therefore the port supply ones too) are reversed. The upper/top port feeds the front brakes, the lower/bottom one feeding the rear brakes.
Incidentally - something to watch out for - the two thread sizes are very similar. I have seen a number of cars where someone has managed to screw the imperial threaded unions into the metric ones. Apart from this being a potential disaster, the wrong pistons in the master cylinder are operating the wrong half of the braking circuit if the cross-threaded unions stay fluid-tight that long! "
Hope this helps!
"Early-type front/rear split system master cylinders used the conventional Imperial threaded fittings. In these units, the lower/bottom port feeds the front brakes, the upper/top port therefore feeding the rear brakes. The later master cylinder (GMC227 - supplied as a replacement for the early types and requires a conversion pipe kit, sometimes identifiable by a yellow plastic band around the cylinder body) has metric threaded fittings with nuts of two different sizes - top one bigger than the bottom one. The conversion pipe kit is necessary because the piston functions (and therefore the port supply ones too) are reversed. The upper/top port feeds the front brakes, the lower/bottom one feeding the rear brakes.
Incidentally - something to watch out for - the two thread sizes are very similar. I have seen a number of cars where someone has managed to screw the imperial threaded unions into the metric ones. Apart from this being a potential disaster, the wrong pistons in the master cylinder are operating the wrong half of the braking circuit if the cross-threaded unions stay fluid-tight that long! "
Hope this helps!
#36
Dick Dastardly
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Mini Mad
Posted 18 October 2005 - 03:54 PM
Your a star Graeme! Cheers mate- just what I needed!
D.D.
D.D.
#38
R1minimagic
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Up Into Fourth
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Posted 27 October 2005 - 05:32 PM
1.5 hrs running. Hmmmmm.......
#39
wobbit
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Camshaft & Stage Two Head
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Posted 27 October 2005 - 07:01 PM
Just seen this for sale- a snip at £34k !!!!!!
one of them cheap ones then! lmao
#40
ryan69
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One Carb Or Two?
Posted 30 October 2005 - 10:35 PM
love the project so far.. looks very cool, very retro
#41
Dick Dastardly
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Mini Mad
Posted 31 October 2005 - 11:26 AM
Progress has been hampered somewhat recently due to work pressures, another trip to Barcelona, and a bout of food poisoning, but I managed to do a few things at the weekend.
Got the arches fitted now after getting the rear wheels more or less aligned with the aid of a 3 metre rule (!) and lots of messing about. Rear wheels are still toeing in too much I reckon, but there's nothing I can do at this stage without removing the right hand drive shaft and lopping some off :saywhat: This is, no doubt, what I'll end up doing in the long run, but it's close enough for now.
Threw the boot on for some photo's (couldn't resist), and restored the pedals and pedal box to "as new" condition ready for fitting this week.
Here are some more piccies....
Got the arches fitted now after getting the rear wheels more or less aligned with the aid of a 3 metre rule (!) and lots of messing about. Rear wheels are still toeing in too much I reckon, but there's nothing I can do at this stage without removing the right hand drive shaft and lopping some off :saywhat: This is, no doubt, what I'll end up doing in the long run, but it's close enough for now.
Threw the boot on for some photo's (couldn't resist), and restored the pedals and pedal box to "as new" condition ready for fitting this week.
Here are some more piccies....
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#42
Dick Dastardly
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Mini Mad
#43
markrally
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Posted 31 October 2005 - 02:40 PM
Willy, pardon my ignorance as i havnt got as far as you yet, but when you mean shorten the shaft are you on about drive shafts or are you cutting threads off the rosejoints? as i thought you adjusted the toe in on the joints???Got the arches fitted now after getting the rear wheels more or less aligned with the aid of a 3 metre rule (!) and lots of messing about. Rear wheels are still toeing in too much I reckon, but there's nothing I can do at this stage without removing the right hand drive shaft and lopping some off :saywhat: This is, no doubt, what I'll end up doing in the long run, but it's close enough for now.
Mark :wales:
#44
Dick Dastardly
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Mini Mad
Posted 31 October 2005 - 06:08 PM
Mark,
the toe is, as you correctly point out, adjusted via the rose joints at the leading edge of the trailing arm. Thing is, in order to adjust for more toe-out the hub/wheel etc has to move inboard, or the leading adge of the trailing arm has to move outboard. Unfortunately for me, the trailing arm is shimmed as far outboard as possible, and the hub/wheel etc cannot move any further inboard due to the length of the driveshaft.
If you grab a drive shaft and try to move it laterally you will feel some float. This is what enables more toe-out to be applied. I've used up all of this float, and still have too much toe-in. Hence the need to start lopping.
Hope this makes sense.
D.D.
the toe is, as you correctly point out, adjusted via the rose joints at the leading edge of the trailing arm. Thing is, in order to adjust for more toe-out the hub/wheel etc has to move inboard, or the leading adge of the trailing arm has to move outboard. Unfortunately for me, the trailing arm is shimmed as far outboard as possible, and the hub/wheel etc cannot move any further inboard due to the length of the driveshaft.
If you grab a drive shaft and try to move it laterally you will feel some float. This is what enables more toe-out to be applied. I've used up all of this float, and still have too much toe-in. Hence the need to start lopping.
Hope this makes sense.
D.D.
#45
markrally
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Posted 31 October 2005 - 07:00 PM
Ohhhhhh right.......... Very strange??????
I thought that would not be a problem, you shouldnt have to shorten the shafts to sort the geometry out, How far out are the rose joints wound out? Be very careful to leave the at least the thread diameter in length screwed into the frame . have you tried screwing in the opposite joint to the one you are unscrewing?
Have you spoke to chris about this?
Ps i went to order my sportspack arches and they have stopped making the genuine arches for now and you have put the tasty pics of your's up and it's got me thiking again on my wheel/arch combination as i want it to be original!!!!!!
Mark :wales:
I thought that would not be a problem, you shouldnt have to shorten the shafts to sort the geometry out, How far out are the rose joints wound out? Be very careful to leave the at least the thread diameter in length screwed into the frame . have you tried screwing in the opposite joint to the one you are unscrewing?
Have you spoke to chris about this?
Ps i went to order my sportspack arches and they have stopped making the genuine arches for now and you have put the tasty pics of your's up and it's got me thiking again on my wheel/arch combination as i want it to be original!!!!!!
Mark :wales:
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