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My new mini


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#1 miniboo

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Posted 05 October 2005 - 03:21 PM

Hi

So i have now picked my new mini and it has a few problems. I will do a list:

Main beams don't work-when flashed or switched on full-possibly a relay?
Front left wheel is knocking noise on cornering-think this is CV joint/boot?
passenger not flush when when shut-feels like its not shut properly but is?
outer sills seem very rusty-how hard to change?
a panels and wings are a bit bubbly with rust
front lower valance under bumper is quite bad with rust
Bonnet where grille part attaches is quite rusty

If anyone has any suggestions please HELP!!!

Main beams are the first one i need to fix and the CV joint/boot

Mini is a 1993 mini mayfair i will try and sort some pics out as soon as i figure out the site and how to do it!

Cheers

Matt

P.S. got some headlight eyebrows that i took off as i dont really like them(too cutesy) will swap with something useful of yours!!

#2 Steve@RetroDash

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Posted 05 October 2005 - 05:25 PM

Hi

So i have now picked my new mini and it has a few problems. I will do a list:

Main beams don't work-when flashed or switched on full-possibly a relay?
Front left wheel is  knocking noise on cornering-think this is CV joint/boot?
passenger not flush when when shut-feels like its not shut properly but is?
outer sills seem very rusty-how hard to change?
a panels and wings are a bit bubbly with rust
front lower valance under bumper is quite bad with rust
Bonnet where grille part attaches is quite rusty

If anyone has any suggestions please HELP!!!

Main beams are the first one i need to fix and the CV joint/boot

Mini is a 1993 mini mayfair i will try and sort some pics out as soon as i figure out the site and how to do it!

Cheers

Matt

P.S. got some headlight eyebrows that i took off as i dont really like them(too cutesy) will swap with something useful of yours!!


the knocking you describe could in fact be a mal adjusted ball joint, i had lots of fun adjusting mine,(not) only had problems after fittin my 7"x13" superlights. if you jack the car up and look at the upper and lower ball joint while someone else tries to tilt/rock the wheel, you should be able to see if they move seperatly to the suspension arms, if they do they might need replacing or adjusting. They adjust with a variety of different thickness shims (thin washers) the less shims the tighter the joint.

saying all this they might just need pumping full of grease with a grease gun (a valuable tool) clean the grease nipples thougherly and pump full of LM grease (i use castrol LM grease from halfords)

While you are there you might want to grease up all your suspension arms on the front and move to the rear radius arms after. It's supprising how many people forget these highly important parts when servicing

good luck mate :cheese:

#3 miniboo

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Posted 05 October 2005 - 06:42 PM

Cheers i will check tomorrow.

i did notice that there is a lot of grease around it as though it has leaked. The other side is clean and dry.

#4 Steve@RetroDash

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Posted 05 October 2005 - 10:22 PM

Cheers i will check tomorrow.

i did notice that there is a lot of grease around it as though it has leaked. The other side is clean and dry.

The cv? or the ball joint? which cv, inner or outer? if the gator has split then lord knows what crud might have got in, in which case yes you will probably need a replacement.

they are relatively cheap parts but can be a ball ache to fit depending on which cv joint it is. when i replaced my outer cv i had real troubles seperating it from the hub.

have you got a haynes manual? its a valuable tool. if you attempt it yourself and get stuck drop me a pm and i'll give you my mob number for advice, might be able to talk you through the stages or link you to a web site with a step by step

good luck mate :grin:

ps when you fit a new cv make sure you pack it full of MOLY grease (castrol make it along with others)

#5 miniboo

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Posted 06 October 2005 - 10:22 AM

I jacked the car up to and rocked the wheel from the top and bottom and there was a fair of movement. On the other side there is no movement so there is obviously a problem.

Not sure what bit it is though, i think the bit that is moving is the driveshaft and the tie rod ball joint.

Got this out of the haynes manual so am not exactly sure if i have maned the right parts

Any help would be greatly appreciated

cheers

#6 Steve@RetroDash

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Posted 06 October 2005 - 05:41 PM

I jacked the car up to and rocked the wheel from the top and bottom and there was a fair of movement. On the other side there is no movement so there is obviously a problem.

Not sure what bit it is though, i think the bit that is moving is the driveshaft and the tie rod ball joint.

Got this out of the haynes manual so am not exactly sure if i have maned the right parts

Any help would be greatly appreciated

cheers

i'm not sure how clued up you are with regards to identifying parts? i could babble on and you might not know what i'm on about :lol:

Do you mean there is movement in the ball joint on the steering tie rod or movement in the swivel hub ball joints?

if its the steering tie rod joint its pretty easy.You'll need to seperate the joint with some scissor type ball joint splitters and replace the joint.

if it is the swivel hub ball joint it'll need shimming as i described earlier. Have you tried packing it full of grease? this can sometimes solve it.

If you are replacing the swivel hub ball joint get yourself a nice big socket with a deep throat and a good quality ball joint splitter, i can't remember the size of the socket off hand but could easily find out. Don't try replacing them if you haven't got these tools as you'll get so frustrated trying it without :rolleyes:

oh and get yourself a nice grease gun and a tub of LM grease (lithium grease)

It could also be a combination of your wheel bearings and balljoints if the driveshaft is moving. might sound bad but its handy to replace the wheel bearings at the same time as your swivel hub ball joints. don't want tohave to remove the hub twice :grin:

do you get a squeel from your wheel when cornering? thats how i found my bearings had knackered

Edited by Nick The Greek, 06 October 2005 - 05:47 PM.


#7 miniboo

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Posted 06 October 2005 - 08:01 PM

By the looks of it and from what i can see in the haynes manual it is the lower balljoint nearest the disc that has play in it along with the driveshaft coming out oif the box. also there is loads of grease evrywhere but not sure where from as the large rubber boot seems fine.

Any help would be good cheers

#8 miniboo

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Posted 06 October 2005 - 08:24 PM

just looked on www.ime.org.uk and it says movement at the 12/6 position is looseness of the top & bottom swivel hub joints

#9 Steve@RetroDash

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Posted 07 October 2005 - 04:58 PM

thats what i suspected, you'll need to remove the hub to make life easier changing or adjusting, just before you do though, try the grease gun first. i could do a complete step by step but it wouldn't be any more helpful than the haynes manual to be honest.

just make sure you invest in some good quality tools, i can't stress enough how easier it makes things.

when are you thinking of changing them?




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