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Quick To Understeer Then Oversteer, Normal?


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#16 cptkirk

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Posted 02 August 2010 - 09:06 AM

My rack is the same, sloppy as an old prozzy....

Pete, do you remember which rack you ended up with?

I had a quick look and there are the regular brand new RHD ones and then there are the RHD ones for the Sportspack model.

Edited by cptkirk, 02 August 2010 - 09:46 AM.


#17 pete

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Posted 02 August 2010 - 08:37 PM

It was a brand new sportspack one. I believe it has less of a turning circle than the standard one to stop the bigger wheels catching on full lock. Used the same type on Andy's minus and no problems with that either.

Edited by pete, 02 August 2010 - 08:37 PM.


#18 cptkirk

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Posted 03 August 2010 - 09:56 AM

Cheers, Looks like I am going to have to invest in one as the unit on mine is just rubbish and quite disconcerting at 100+ mph.......

#19 mini 1000 gsxr

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Posted 03 August 2010 - 10:19 AM

hi folks i had the same problem couldnt get it to handle the way i would like and every time i checked the tracking it was off so i got another reconditioned rack put it on it was loads better for a few days then all over the place again ended up buying a new rack no reconditioned seems sorted now
cheers andy

#20 cptkirk

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Posted 03 August 2010 - 10:32 AM

Yer I am pretty sure Z's flogged me a recon unit, going to have to bite the bullet and get a new one, plus the Sportspack one will stop the rubbing I am getting on the wheel wells.

#21 al_reidy

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Posted 04 August 2010 - 08:43 PM

Yer I am pretty sure Z's flogged me a recon unit, going to have to bite the bullet and get a new one, plus the Sportspack one will stop the rubbing I am getting on the wheel wells.



its pleasing to know im not alone, but why the hell are the recon racks so crap! ?
yet another part i am having to re-buy for this project.

#22 cptkirk

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Posted 10 August 2010 - 03:56 PM

My rack arrived last week, cant get to fit it for a couple of weeks as holiday calls, aiming to fit rose joints and spacers (as stated in my build diary thread), so it might be even longer once I get the necessary bits machined.

#23 rustandoil

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Posted 10 August 2010 - 04:10 PM

Interesting comments on steering racks :P the one I bought from Mini Sport (yes i know!) is very rough, and seems to have slop :) I was hoping it would be because I have yet to fit a bolt in the pinch clamp at the bottom of the column, but having read what you guys have said seems I am in the market for a new 'un :)

#24 AllanMcD

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Posted 10 August 2010 - 07:56 PM

Heres a picture of my stearing setup I used to have longer spacers fitted but I have moved my rack up a bit now so dont need as lang a spacer.
I just drilled the stearing arm and used a high tensile bolt.
Posted Image
Allan

#25 cptkirk

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 08:12 AM

Ah ha, so it looks like a regular 1/2" UNF female rose joint is adequate in length to do the job, good to know.

Just to confirm for myself and others reading the aim is to get the steering rack arm as straight as possible in its vertical plane to cancel out even more bump steer.

Reading on the 16vminiclub site it is advisable not to go too big on the length of spacer as this causes rotational stresses on the steering arm connected to the upright.

I will start getting bits ordered then.

#26 AllanMcD

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 09:34 AM

Ah ha, so it looks like a regular 1/2" UNF female rose joint is adequate in length to do the job, good to know.

Just to confirm for myself and others reading the aim is to get the steering rack arm as straight as possible in its vertical plane to cancel out even more bump steer.


I had to lenghthen the stearing arms but I have the track wide.
The aim is to get the arms in a position that stops bump steer which is near vertical on my car.
I would recomend using male rose joints screwed in to sleaves (easy to make) this way you would be able to adjust the lenghth easier somthing like these
Posted Image
Allan

Edited by AllanMcD, 11 August 2010 - 09:36 AM.


#27 al_reidy

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Posted 11 September 2010 - 09:13 AM

Ah ha, so it looks like a regular 1/2" UNF female rose joint is adequate in length to do the job, good to know.

Just to confirm for myself and others reading the aim is to get the steering rack arm as straight as possible in its vertical plane to cancel out even more bump steer.


I had to lenghthen the stearing arms but I have the track wide.
The aim is to get the arms in a position that stops bump steer which is near vertical on my car.
I would recomend using male rose joints screwed in to sleaves (easy to make) this way you would be able to adjust the lenghth easier somthing like these
Posted Image
Allan



they look great, but thats a hell of a price!

mini spares do a rose joint - http://www.minispare...ty=pb&pid=36370
Posted Image
which should do the job? just need a nice pair of hi tensile bolts.
is this what you did Allan?

#28 Custom_Minis

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Posted 12 September 2010 - 09:15 AM

Heres a picture of my stearing setup I used to have longer spacers fitted but I have moved my rack up a bit now so dont need as lang a spacer.
I just drilled the stearing arm and used a high tensile bolt.
Posted Image
Allan


Hi Allan,

How did you move your rack up??

I am running 3.75" ground clearance on the front and have a very inclined steering rack arm also.

Cheers,
Les

#29 AllanMcD

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Posted 12 September 2010 - 10:26 AM

Heres a picture of my stearing setup I used to have longer spacers fitted but I have moved my rack up a bit now so dont need as lang a spacer.
I just drilled the stearing arm and used a high tensile bolt.
Posted Image
Allan


Hi Allan,

How did you move your rack up??

I am running 3.75" ground clearance on the front and have a very inclined steering rack arm also.

Cheers,
Les


I just cut the mountings off with an angle grinder and welded about 30mm higher up.
Allan

#30 cptkirk

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Posted 13 September 2010 - 11:23 AM

I dont have mine machined yet but the photo below is something like what I am aiming towards for my fix, although moving the steering rack is the best way to combat bump steer it might not be possible for some to do.

As I said in my build diary I am going to use a 1/2" UNF turnbuckle with RH&LH threads (like the one attached to the rose joint in the below picture, I already bought the taps and the 3/4" hex bar to make this), LH thread 1/2" Rose joints.

I think the major difference between the picture below and mine is that I am thinking of tapping 1/2"UNF into the bottom half of the spacer (made from the same 3/4" hex bar) and then taper the top end and thread the spacer (3/8"UNF), similar to the current track rod end. Or I might ream out the steering arm and whack a high tensile 1/2"UNF bolt all the way through the lot, still undecided.......

I am hoping to get the machining done this week/weekend, after which I will post up some pictures and might even do some drawings for people to copy if they want.

Anyhooo, here is a picture I have stolen/borrowed from the 16Vminiclub site:

Posted Image




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