SUPER URGENT HELP NEEDED!!!!!!
#16
Posted 12 October 2005 - 12:10 PM
#17
Posted 12 October 2005 - 12:32 PM
As Guessworks said, the numbers on the wires are what have confused you. They were put on there to help you if you ever take them off the plugs. What's important is that both pictures show the wires are going to the correct cylinders. At the risk of confusing the situation, and for future clarity only, either move the wires so that the one labeled #1 goes to #1 and #2 to #2 etc.... OR remove the number labels from the wires all together. A quick way to mark wires if you don't have labels like yours (and you find tape unattractive) is to put a single nylon cable/wire tie around the spark plug wire for #1, two wire ties on #2 wire and three on #3 wire. Leave #4 plain or put four on it if you have plenty of wire ties to spare.
Timing is next but since you have a pro coming I think we shouldn't go into that here yet. However, in response to Tark's questions and comments, I would make one addition. You can static time or dynamic time at idle as the manuals suggest. Another way is to do a high-speed dynamic timing. To do this you need an "advance-type" timing light, the one with the little adjusting knob on the back, or you need to add a couple of additional timing marks on your pulleys. The basic procedure is to bring the engine up to around 4k RPM and set your TOTAL advance at that speed to somewhere between 30-35 degrees. By 4k RPM your distributor should have delivered as much advance as it can so you're dynamically setting the maximum advance. The idle and static timing "are where they are" when you're done. After doing this you should drive your car and listen for any pinging. If you hear any, retard the timing about 2 degrees and repeat your test. Keep doing this until you hear no more pinging and you've figured out the maximum advance your engine can handle.
#18
Posted 12 October 2005 - 01:30 PM
From what i can understand (ive just had a pub lunch with the wife a few grolsch to many!!!!!!) the leads numbered need to go into the cylinders 1-4 (1nearest the rad) and not firing order?? And what about the dizzy cap end?? The 1 lead in top right?????
Johnny
#19
Posted 12 October 2005 - 02:06 PM
look at the pic enlarge ive numbered cyl and dizzy positions copy this and you should be good :cheese:
and make sure that rotor arm at tdc is on or very near position 1!
#20
Posted 12 October 2005 - 02:24 PM
cheers have done and yes ive got an "advance-type" timing lightJohnny, I posted to your other thread not knowing you'd started this one. My post there was a long winded version of what Guessworks said about confirming that you were on #1's compression stroke.
As Guessworks said, the numbers on the wires are what have confused you. They were put on there to help you if you ever take them off the plugs. What's important is that both pictures show the wires are going to the correct cylinders. At the risk of confusing the situation, and for future clarity only, either move the wires so that the one labeled #1 goes to #1 and #2 to #2 etc.... OR remove the number labels from the wires all together. A quick way to mark wires if you don't have labels like yours (and you find tape unattractive) is to put a single nylon cable/wire tie around the spark plug wire for #1, two wire ties on #2 wire and three on #3 wire. Leave #4 plain or put four on it if you have plenty of wire ties to spare.
Timing is next but since you have a pro coming I think we shouldn't go into that here yet. However, in response to Tark's questions and comments, I would make one addition. You can static time or dynamic time at idle as the manuals suggest. Another way is to do a high-speed dynamic timing. To do this you need an "advance-type" timing light, the one with the little adjusting knob on the back, or you need to add a couple of additional timing marks on your pulleys. The basic procedure is to bring the engine up to around 4k RPM and set your TOTAL advance at that speed to somewhere between 30-35 degrees. By 4k RPM your distributor should have delivered as much advance as it can so you're dynamically setting the maximum advance. The idle and static timing "are where they are" when you're done. After doing this you should drive your car and listen for any pinging. If you hear any, retard the timing about 2 degrees and repeat your test. Keep doing this until you hear no more pinging and you've figured out the maximum advance your engine can handle.
running beaut now! 10 idle 34deg max advance 4k revs :grin:
#21
Posted 12 October 2005 - 03:02 PM
ALL IS SORTED!!!!!
That pic made it so simple. You know when you get that feeling when the penny drops, well ive just had it!!!!! Now all the text makes sense!!!!!!
I put the wires on as advised and at first it wouldnt turn over. Then i tried again and then there was a back fire!!!!!! Tried again and instant turn over!!!! Took it for a drive and it is so so so so much better!!!!!! It flies!!!!!
So thank you to everyone who helped. It is a very big achivement for you guys to make me do something right!!!!! As you can tell by the lenght of the thread. I just cant get my head round it all!!!!! So thank you all again and i can sleep tonight knowing all is well and await krypton man tomorrow to dial it all in.
Thanks gang
Johnny and a happy blue destroyer!! (oh and a wife )
#22
Posted 12 October 2005 - 03:06 PM
thought the pic was the way forward lol works everytime for me
#23
Posted 12 October 2005 - 03:40 PM
#24
Posted 12 October 2005 - 05:28 PM
#25
Posted 13 October 2005 - 07:16 AM
200th post !!!!!! yeh !!!!!!!
not quite a new fish now ! :grin:
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