Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Suspension Components


  • Please log in to reply
7 replies to this topic

#1 Pooky

Pooky

    Crazy About Mini's

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,691 posts
  • Location: Sunny Sussex

Posted 15 October 2005 - 02:37 PM

Time to upgrade the suspension on me mini! :grin:

i'd like to spend about £200-£300 to get a decent package but i don't know how far to go with it! I don't want to waste my money! (because i'll want to save money to get it setup and for some new disks and pads too! :grin: )

something like the stage 2 kit? Minispeed suspension kits

or whatabout the stage 1 kit plus the negative camber kit?

do i need HiLo's?

any ideas? :)

#2 Guess-Works.com

Guess-Works.com

    Gearbox Guru

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 19,838 posts
  • Local Club: Rugby Classic Mini Owners Club

Posted 15 October 2005 - 03:37 PM

Depends totally on what sort of ride you are after....

#3 Oldskoolbaby

Oldskoolbaby

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,361 posts

Posted 15 October 2005 - 03:47 PM

I reckon the best thing to do is to get a fully adjustable suspension set up. This way you can set the geometry to what it should be as standard or playwith the caster etc to give you that race car set up. Really, if your on a budget, go to the shows as you can pick up fairly well made parts for a good price. However I wouldnt personaly buy anything second hand as some items could be mildly bent.
If I was to buy a complete setup from new I would buy;

Adjustable bottom arms
Adjustable tie rods
KAD hi lows with the new type of replacement coil springs
KAD rear adjustable camber/castor brackets.

#4 Guess-Works.com

Guess-Works.com

    Gearbox Guru

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 19,838 posts
  • Local Club: Rugby Classic Mini Owners Club

Posted 15 October 2005 - 04:04 PM

Be carfull with adjustable rear brackets, as the ones which do both camber and trcking have a tendancy to move, well especially the cheaper ones. Much better/safer to use shims between the rear brackets and subframe to alter the tracking.

#5 Oldskoolbaby

Oldskoolbaby

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,361 posts

Posted 15 October 2005 - 04:08 PM

Your completly right Guessworks but this is why I said KAD adjustables.

#6 Pooky

Pooky

    Crazy About Mini's

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,691 posts
  • Location: Sunny Sussex

Posted 15 October 2005 - 05:26 PM

I'm after a more racier setup yeah.

I'm fine with the height of the car as it is (but i don't know how new shocks would alter it) so would hilo's be essential?

how about this? Minispares 'geometry kit' plus some adjustable shocks (and hilos if necessary!)

within my budget i think :grin:

#7 Sprocket

Sprocket

    Great on Injection faults

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,266 posts
  • Location: Warrington
  • Local Club: Manchester Minis

Posted 16 October 2005 - 12:25 AM

Fit either the ORIGINAL HiLo by MiniSpares or the simmilar Adjust A Ride by Minisport. The quality of the others are just not up to the job. Those above have been well product tested in world rally championships, so, for me, thats good enough :cheese:

Fit poly subframe bushes all round and fit the steel, fixed, front subframe rear mounts.

when choosing the dampers, don't go for the adjustable ones with anything over about 30 point adjustment as it will only confuse the matter and take ages to set up right. Its not worth it on a road car. Thumb adjusters are a must though.

Keep the original bottom arms and tie rods. You'll get neg camber when you lower the car (fit longer track rod ends when lowering). Fit poly bushes on the bottom arms, with a combination of poly bush and rubber bush on the tie bars. If you change any of these for either adjustable or neg camber items then a full alignment check is required by a special specialist (not many around and not the local tyre center), that is expensive. The aim is to limit unwanted movement not eliminate it ( unless you are building a race car)

Use fixed neg camber rear brackets and use shims to alter the tracking

Last but not least. If you realy want great cornering stability, fit the road version front and rear anti roll bars.

The result will be a car that handles very very well but is still a comfortable ride.

Most of what is described above is the most, in my opinion, that should be done to a road car. It is more of a comprimise between all out racer set up that totaly eliminates movement, which is harsh, complicated and expensive to set up right, and, at the other end all sloppy with loads of unwanted movement, but very smooth in comparisson. Like wise the handling would either be totaly outstanding, fine on a smooth race track, but when are the local roads ever that smooth, or utter garbage and loose in comparisson. So you should be trying to achieve the best of both extremes, great handling but not that the result will be a bone shaker that'll make your teeth drop out on even the shortest journey and the car shake itself to bits, litteraly.

You realy have to know what you can put up with comfort wise. Every one is individual :cheese:

Following any of this advice will keep those hard earned pennies in your pocket, but still alowing you to build a car that will out handle most cars on the road without the white finger, bone shaker of a ride of a race car.

#8 Pooky

Pooky

    Crazy About Mini's

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,691 posts
  • Location: Sunny Sussex

Posted 16 October 2005 - 09:46 AM

Wow!

Nice one MiniSprocket!

Thanks a lot mate! :wink: :grin:


a full alignment check is required by a special specialist



lol :angry:




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users