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Front Subrame Won`t Fit My Shell


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#1 semag

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 07:24 PM

I recently bought a used front subframe, pictures attached to my previous post in November. I tried to fit the frame to my 79 round nose shell this weekend, but found that the turret fixings don`t match the the holes in the bulkhead. I have measured the car and the frame several times, compared the shell to two standard subframes they both fit no problem.

The Z Cars frame is out by a full half inch on the turret centres, there are no signs of any damage what so ever. I contacted the previous owner to enquire but he told me that he never actually fitted it to his car.

I find it hard to believe that Z Cars would make it that far out, but I`m not sure which part needs altering. I dont think trying to mod the bulkhead would be a very good idea. but to alter the frame would mean cutting out the rear rails, shortening, then squeezing the turrets together to the correct dimension and then re-welding in the rear rails. So which ever way I go it`s going to mean a fair bit of work.

Has anybody else experienced a similar problem

Your comments would be most welcome.

#2 Pete649

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 07:49 PM

Has anybody else experienced a similar problem

Your comments would be most welcome.


My tubular front subframe turrets seemed to be out by about 10mm. Thing is I just got one into position and applied a bit of pressure by hand to the other turret and the subframe must have flexed just a little bit as it all popped into place.

Edited by Pete649, 04 January 2010 - 07:51 PM.


#3 vtecmini2

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 07:55 PM

My first frame was like this i just use a strap to pull both side in till the holes alined.

thanks
john

#4 Renessy

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 08:57 PM

My first frame was like this i just use a strap to pull both side in till the holes alined.

thanks
john



Same here.....

#5 mk3 Cooper S

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 09:32 PM

If you don't need to ratchet strap a front subframe to fit a standard body then it appears there may be some discrepency in the Zcar frame?

#6 drayton min man

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 10:08 PM

Same here, if you just use a rachet strap between the two uprights the frame soon aligns and makes it a nice snug fit, dont worry even if half an inch sounds alot it will soon pull together with little effort. :D

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#7 R1minimagic

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 10:46 PM

Mine was the same but on the rear floor legs, they were about 15mm too short!!

I sent it back to Z cars and asked for another one.

Apparently the shells come in 2 different shapes.

#8 PhotoguyUSA

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Posted 05 January 2010 - 12:33 AM

Ratchet straps are your friend :)

Mine was this way too

#9 R1minimagic

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Posted 05 January 2010 - 09:31 AM

I'm talking front to rear direction so ratchet straps no good!

#10 PhotoguyUSA

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Posted 06 January 2010 - 11:48 PM

So let me try and understand......

If you line up the holes so it does fit, the rear tabs dont fit where the firewall and the floor come together? They sit approx 1-2 inches to far forward? If this is the case this is a known problem and on the builder DVD. You need to use a solid spacer that goes against the firewall. If this isnt what your talking about I would add some images to your post so we can try and help.

Ring Chris or Richard at Zcars and they will take of you, great guys to work with.

#11 R1minimagic

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Posted 08 January 2010 - 04:26 PM

I sold the car in August, the issue was resolved, i sent the frame back and Z cars built me a new one that fitted correctly.

I wasn't happy with the solid spacer option, i bought the frame primarily to save weight and had it built in thinner CDS tubing so wasn't happy putting spacers in that weigh as much as a house brick!!


Looking at that yellow frame for the A series, it appears the back legs are now adjustable?

Edited by R1minimagic, 08 January 2010 - 04:27 PM.


#12 brandon7

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Posted 08 January 2010 - 04:40 PM

You can count on the frame being totally straight. In actual fact after taking mine in and out of my round nose shell a few times it got easier each time. You will find the frame will actually jig your car straight. Like the guys said rachet straps and a bit/alot of brute force (crow bars with cloth to stop scratching). You will have to beat in the inside of the nose where the corners are coming down from the tie bars. I think i totally smacked mine in and i dont know if your running a front or rear engines car. If you have a Z cars remove as much of the metal out the front as you can like rad shrouding etc.
It will work just really have to get stuck in and maybe need 2 or three people
Mark

#13 R1minimagic

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Posted 08 January 2010 - 04:48 PM

I'm sorry but i wasn't going to beat the hell out of my floorpan to make the frame fit!!

Fair enough if the uprights dont quite line up, they are easy to adjust with ratchet straps or otherwise (i had to file mine down a bit on the 'tower' mounts)

Chris was aware at the time that there seemed to be 2 types of bodyshell, those where the frame fitted the floor perfectly and others where they all appeared to have a gap of ~15-20mm. At first Chris thought the ones that didn't fit were accident damaged cars but that wasn't true. I know personally that he did a lot of head scratching over it and now seeing that yellow frame on the other post by Semag it looks like the legs are adjustable to compensate.

#14 z cars chris

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 09:45 PM

the reason the frames need some man handling to fit is because when you construct something out of a number of tubes and then weld it together then it "pulls" with the welding process
if you think about it the frames have a lower set of rails then a bar from left to right in a big curve around the front so it ends up a pretty wierd shaped thing
we have tried various ways of welding in sequances etc to no avail
if you measure them before powder coating they are different when they come back as they have been baked in an oven and move again due to the heat stress relieving he structure
the two top mounting holes are easily either porta powered out or ratchet strapped together to get them aligned
once they are in place they wont move and are back to where they need to be as they were when originally built in the jig
i used to have a mate who worked in a huge engineering business and they regularily straightened two foot deep sectional beams for trusses for buildings and similar by running weld along one side of the beam then grinding it flat afterwards it was amazing to watch him do it as over the years he got an eye for where the weld needed applying
chris

#15 R1minimagic

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Posted 10 January 2010 - 03:27 PM

Still doesn't explain why the legs would be too short though!




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