Mike's X18xe1 Powered Mini
Posted 31 December 2014 - 06:11 PM
Posted 05 May 2015 - 08:01 PM
It's been a while so time for an update.
I was part way through step 2 in my plan last time.
I trimmed the driver's side wing back at the back edge, made the replacement in fill piece and welded it in. To get the complex cured shape I made an MDF piece and bashed the metal over it to get it into shape.
I then fitted the passenger side A panel and bent the lips over on the edge of both panels.
I applied a stack more mini clamps (I decided to invest in a load at the London model engineering show and yet I still don't seam to have enough) to keep everything in place and then removed the standard mini sub frame.
Step 3:. This is where it didn't quite go to plan. My plan was to lift my modified sub frame in from underneath and bolt it in. I would have done this but it didn't fit. The front panel clashed on my front bar, where the bars underneath came up and joined the front of the subframe, the driver's side brace bar and the passenger side engine mount.
The solution to these were to change the angle of the lower bars where they meet the front bar. The 45 degree angle applied to them has a. allowed the frame to fit, b. stops it potentially digging into a curb or the grass that can build up in the middle of some of the roads by me if I have to drive over them and c. allows me to use a socket to do the nuts up on the end on the lower suspension arms rather than have to use an open ended socket. The front bar was redesigned. It still mounts in the same place but attaches by a different means now. The driver's side brace bar was angle in at the bottom. It will be gussetted and fish plated later to add strength. The passenger side engine mount was removed. This will be changed after the next step but I should have the space if I move it over a bit towards the centre of the car. This is good as it actually moves it closer to the gearbox mounting holes. Before cutting it off I made a wooden spacer that sits on the sub frame and under the engine mount in so when I lower the engine back in it will locate on the remaining two mounts but be supported by the wooden piece. I can then figure out where to place the new mount.
Finally the front end was put on back over the frame. It is tight in places but I do have a couple of mm clearance between the front of the frame and the inside of the front panel.
This is where I have got up to so next will be the hinges and the rubber catches to fit.
Posted 31 October 2015 - 11:36 PM
As usual it has been way too long since my last up date. To be honest I thought I had already done part of the update I'm about to show but never mind.
I can't find the photos of it but the first thing that happened was that the missing engine mount was re made and the engine offered back up. The lug on the front of the gearbox that bolts to a stabiliser was cut off to give enough clearance between the gearbox and front bar. It wasn't doing anything so it might as well go.
The front end was then reinstalled and a small piece trimmed out of the O/S wing drip rail to clear the cam cover. The bonnet was laid over the top to make sure everything fits. Woo whoo it does. I don't have to have any buldges or anything else on the outside to cover the engine that gives it away that the car isn't standard.
I did start making an exhaust flange after this. I would have just bought one but I couldn't find one for an X18XE1 engine. The exhaust manifolds for the X16XE are slightly different so I can't use one of them. I know people have had them made but this requires a DXF file to be made. While I can do the drawing needed and send it off to be laser cut the only thing I had to reference was the existing manifold (I've since sold it) and the old gasket. I decided it was easier to simply trace around them and cut one out myself. 3/8" thick steel is hard work to cut by hand but I am almost done. I just need to finish filing out the exhaust ports and then it is done. Once I am done I will post a picture of it.
A few weeks ago I ended up with a day to myself and not a lot to do so I decided to pick a task on the Roadkill style list I made (Mike Finnegan is right, a list is a good idea as you remember to order parts) and complete it. I choose to sort out the door latches. While it seams a tad trivial at the minute, I very much intend to have this thing running and driving before it goes for paint as I do not want to have to drill any holes into a shell that has been painted and cause a potential place for rust to start. So I can test drive it I need the doors to stay shut so the latches were set up and fitted.
more Roadkill copying in the form of mini mole grips being used a door furniture
Now we role around to last weekend. I'm in the final stages of completing the purchase of my first house which conveniently has a garage... or rather should that be the purchase of my first garage that conveniently has a house. Either way it means the mini needs to be rolling again so it can be loaded onto a trailer and taken to its new home. Before refitting the suspension I've decided I might as well tackle two jobs that both require the engine to come out again. Its much easier to do it now without the drive shafts connected then after I move it and have had to reconnect them.
The first job is the gear linkage. All the other vauxhall conversion I have seen done requires the bulkhead to be cut and modified to allow the gear linkage mechanism to work. I didn't particularly want to cut such a large piece out of the bulk head. I can't remember whose it was but I have seen a vauxhall build where someone modified the gear linkage and got it to work without modifying the bulkhead. This is the option I have choosen.
The first issue is that with the selector mechanism on top of the gearbox pulled all the way out the linkage hits the bulk head. I therefore began shortening the linkage. I first dismantled the linkage and created a small jig out of a piece of MDF and a few bolts that holds the linkage in the correct orientation. I have then cut about 15mm out if and put the two parts back together ready to be welded.
With the one half of the linkage shortened I have begun to figure out where to put the pivot for the mechanism.
Today I then decided to turn my attention to the clutch. As is fortunate Vauxhall slave cylinder work with Mini master cylinders so all that is required is a pipe making up to connect the two.
I had to swap the pipe in the gearbox that goes to the clutch slave cylinder. The one fitted had the wrong type of fitting on the top of it. Luckily from one of the other gearboxes that I robbed parts to build my franken gearbox out of I had the correct fitting. With the engine out and the gearbox split from the engine the pipe could be removed and the other one swapped in.
Next I started routing the pipe. I've since learnt that Teflon braided hose fittings are a right pain to fit as well. I then put the engine back in to work out how long to cut the hose.
Finally I added the fitting onto the other end of the hose and connected everything up.
I haven't tested it as I know the engine has to come out again and don't want to waste fluid so for the time being it is being left. Once I have everything else in place all fluids will be put in and everything that needs bleeding, bleeding. I will trouble shoot anything leaks if and when they occur.
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