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Removing Hardy Spicer Output Shaft


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#1 ariff

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Posted 16 April 2010 - 02:27 AM

how do i remove the hardy spicer output shaft, im not seeing any circlip or nut, and can this be done with the engine inside the car

#2 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 16 April 2010 - 06:03 AM

Do you mean the flange ( which forms the coupling between the universal joint and output shaft ) or the actual output shaft.

On early HS flanges they are attached with a bolt through the middle of the unit to the output shaft, on the later ones ( fitted to auto's ) they are actuall connected the same way as the pot joint ( use the same pot joint output shafts ) therefore just slide off with a gentle tap to free the spring ring.

If you mean the actual output shaft then these can only be removed by dismantling the differential

#3 miniman86

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Posted 14 January 2019 - 12:20 PM

Sorry to drag up an old thread, but on a 1975 auto, would the flange be bolted to the output shaft, or just come off with a tap? Doesn't seem to want to move currently, but don't want to give it more and break something.

Alex

#4 nicklouse

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Posted 14 January 2019 - 12:26 PM

yes there is a threaded retention device. either a nut or a bolt I forget which. it will be in your Haynes manual.

remember after removing the nut/bolt there is a washer and a collet there as well.


Edited by nicklouse, 14 January 2019 - 12:40 PM.


#5 imack

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Posted 14 January 2019 - 01:08 PM

Early ones bolt on, the bolt is obvious when the hardy spicer joint is removed. Late ones fit as per a pot joint and knock off. If it has a cap in the centre it knocks off. Mine sre late knock off type pictured.

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#6 miniman86

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Posted 14 January 2019 - 01:47 PM

Early ones bolt on, the bolt is obvious when the hardy spicer joint is removed. Late ones fit as per a pot joint and knock off. If it has a cap in the centre it knocks off. Mine sre late knock off type pictured.


This is the type I have. Just removed the other half of it with the four nuts to find this. Will now continue to bash in hope it pops out. Oil seals leaking like a sieve!

Alex

#7 miniman86

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 09:18 AM

How much of a knock do they take to knock them off? I've got a pot joint tool, as it's the closest thing I have thatll fit around the coupling, but it doesn't want to budge at all. Any ideas?

#8 imack

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 10:21 AM

I only use the pot joint tool on mine and give it a clump with a copper hammer. Always comes off pretty easily.

#9 miniman86

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 11:13 AM

Been using a copper hammer with the pot joint tool and they're not budging at all

#10 nicklouse

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 11:51 AM

pop up a picture like the above but of yours?



#11 miniman86

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 12:05 PM

It's identical to the one above, with the cap in the centre. Other than mine is auto, not remote change manual

#12 imack

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 12:27 PM

I've had both types, the large bolt head is obvious if you've got that type. The ones in the picture above came off an auto box.

Edited by imack, 15 January 2019 - 12:29 PM.


#13 miniman86

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 06:02 PM

Finally managed to get it off early this afternoon, got the oil seal out to find that it's a different seal to that of a cooper S! Original ones are NLA, but I've managed to order some more, so fingers crossed they'll work okay.

Alex

#14 imack

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 07:20 PM

I thought the oil seals were leaking in my hardy spicer flanges when I first fitted them, turned out that the core plug type cap was leaking in the centre of the flange so it might be worth tapping the caps out while you've got the flanges off and refit them with some sealant. I used good old fashioned red hemetite.

#15 miniman86

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Posted 16 January 2019 - 05:01 PM

Got the drivers side apart, hasn't even got a cap over the centre! But it was the passenger side that was leaking! Work that out?!




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