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Bmw 16v K1200rs Head Conversion 1380cc Block


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#1 mini_nutz

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Posted 29 April 2010 - 10:49 PM

Hello all

Welcome to my BMW 16v K conversion build.

If you are looking into starting a BMW conversion I would suggest looking at the following links.

http://195.159.109.1....php?topic=47.0
http://www.lojomo.com
http://www.specialist-components.co.uk
http://www.16vminiclub.com
http://www.turbominis.co.uk
http://www.motorworks.co.uk

If you are interested and keen to attempt this conversion and any conversion for that matter I would suggest you complete a reasonable amount of research prior to spending any money. I always create and develop a spreadsheet detailing the cost of any parts or services required to produce an estimate of the total project cost. This spreadsheet cannot be produced in 5 mins. If you think you have completed it, you havent. The spreadsheet will always expand and alter during the build. Dont forget that once you have completed the engine build and installed it in your mini you are going to have to insure it, if you are under 20 I wouldnt bother starting this conversion and hope to install it unless youre seriously loaded. Ensure you set yourself a reasonable budget. There is no point starting a project if you are unable to fund it, I see it so many times that people get 90% through a project then having to throw in the towel and it ends up on ebay.

I dont want to put anyone off completing this conversion but you need to be realistic. For a standard build you will be looking at around the £3,500 mark. When you are building a new engine I will always suggest you dont cut corners, if one component fails or is installed incorrectly you could destroy the engine beyond repair, maybe for the sake of that extra £100 that you didnt want to spend.

One more thing you should do prior to making your decision is to read a build guide to get an understanding of what is needed and what isnt. You can buy a complete guide from Specialist Components or you can find a free guide on Morspeeds website. If you think the work is beyond your capabilities you can buy a complete engine that is plug and play.

I decided to go with the Specialist Components Conversion Kit. John is a very friendly chap and knows his stuff and is always able to help answer your questions.

Now to the pictures:

BMW 16v K1200rs head arrives:
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BMW head acid dipped and Bead Blasted:
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Mini Engine Block studs, oil and water ways blocked, Bored out to 73.5mm honed and skimmed:
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Central Main Strap Fitted:
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BMW head on Mini block for the first time:
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Specialist Components Conversion Kit arrives:
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BMW head converted to fit mini. Thanks to Nick Butler at Auto Imagination for welding this up.
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Cam Cover Prior to Machining:
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The next step is to have the head face and side inc the cam cover skimmed and the oil return couplings drilled and tapped.

I will try and keep this up to date so check back regularly.

Warren

Edited by mini_nutz, 11 May 2014 - 07:28 PM.


#2 mini_nutz

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Posted 12 May 2010 - 08:26 PM

Hi All, It has been a while since my last post.

I am still slowly progressing with this project. I have now drilled and tapped as necessary all the new water, oil and stud holes. I have also blocked off the two water holes located infront of cylinder number one to increase flow to cylinder number 4. I have also painted the block in POR-15 Black Engine Enamel. I have attached a picture of the preperation work but cannot find a photo of the finished item. I will take a picture at the weekend.

I recently spent hours cleaning the valves; I always thought that cleaning the 8 valves for a standard mini head was time consuming. Imagine 16 of them! I will take some pictures of them at the weekend.

I found the inlet valves very easy to clean with 1000grit wet and dry then 2000grit to polish them up but the exhaust values were coated in a thick carbon deposit which required a 120grit then worked my way down to the 2000grit glass paper. Going this fine is properly a bit over kill, but they come up nice and shiny. The next fun stage for me will be to lap the 16 valves in. I have purchased a Gunson Eazilap valve tool to prevent the sore hands but am reluctant to use it as I have no experience with them. Maybe someone on here has some good advice?

The head and cam cover are currently at the machine shop being skimmed and the oil return holes drilled and tapped to 3/8" BSP. The next step will be for me to measure the cc's in each combustion chamber so I can work out what size dish I will need in the Pistons to get a compression ratio around 11.5:1. A note to bear in mind is that the piston cut outs that are required to prevent the valves making contacting with the piston are around 2cc's. The gasket is 0.6mm thick therefore using basic maths to work out the volume of a cylinder that has a diameter of 73.5mm you get 2.5cc's

I have done some parts shopping and have received the following:-

Water pump
Oil pump
Water Gallery Plugs
8 x Long head studs
Central Oil Pickup
Gearbox Recon Bearing Kit
Clutch Oil Seal
Differential Oil seals
Gear selector shaft oil seal
2 x Moqip 90 degree Oil return pipes

Due to TMF server problems I been unable to upload the potos untill now.

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Attached File  DSC_0373_1024x680.jpg   119.97K   184 downloads
Attached File  DSC_0371_1024x680.jpg   108.97K   197 downloads

Edited by mini_nutz, 24 May 2010 - 09:45 PM.


#3 clubman katie B.F

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Posted 26 May 2010 - 08:21 PM

Hi,
Hope all goes well with your build. I am in the middle of a K100 conversion. Engine spec: 1340cc, guessworks rebuilt gearbox with 4 pin diff and straight cut drops, and all the usual stuff.

I am starting to assemble the engine, and am having fun with it!!!!! LOL

#4 samsfern

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Posted 26 May 2010 - 08:24 PM

im interested in this, ive been having serious thoughts of doing this, keep it updated!

#5 Rosslin Racing

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Posted 26 May 2010 - 09:03 PM

looks very intresting,

question are you not worried that welding the head cause any problems?

#6 josh.evans

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Posted 23 June 2010 - 03:32 PM

any updates?

#7 mini_nutz

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 05:52 PM

Hello everyone

Thanks for all your messages. Sorry an update has been over due.

Patlink sent me the following very useful link definitely worth a look at for those intrested in 16v minis: http://www.efiminis....l.com/index.php.

Progress has been slow due to the machine shop being extremely busy but things are coming together nicely. The block now has new cam bearings fitted. The head has been skimmed and the 3/8”bsp oil drain holes have been drilled / tapped and the cam cover trimmed to fit snugly. I have also had the old chain lubrication hole blocked in the side of the head to stop oil being pumped to the cam bearings leaking out onto the end plate, this hole I believe is only on the BMW K1200rs heads.

I have also done a bit of shopping and received the following:
10 x Head Nuts
Evolution molybdenum X-pin differential
Oil Filler Cap
Verto Clutch Bolt

Parts from SC:
Oil Pump Jackshaft
Remote Thermostat
Twin Cam Ancillaries Pack

I have also dismantled my old differential to remove the hardy splicer output shafts. The next few weeks I hope to complete my compression ratio test and order my pistons, crankshaft, conn rods, clutch and SCCR ST gears. I will also start to rebuild the head ready for a test engine build. Oh yeh also got to get the cam cover painted, not sure what colour yet. Decisions Decisions!!!


And for the pictures:-


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#8 patlink

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 06:06 PM

looking good
your going dry decked ?

#9 clubman katie B.F

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 08:49 PM

As previously stated I am in the middle of a similar build, with an 8V head, but have just bought a 16V head....gotta be done...time to strip the engine back down then lol

#10 patlink

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Posted 07 July 2010 - 03:34 PM

nice if your building a 8v to join over on efi-minis fro more info

#11 mini_nutz

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Posted 25 October 2010 - 05:36 PM

Hi all,

Thought I would give everybody a quick update on progress. It’s been a hectic few months for me so the project has taken a back seat for a while, it’s now back on track. :D

Progress over the past few months:

Cam cover has been blasted and powder coated in satin black:

Attached File  DSC_0004_640x425.jpg   40.56K   178 downloads
Attached File  DSC_0003_640x425.jpg   41.15K   147 downloads

Put the valves and spark plugs into head and measured the combustion chamber volume in the head using a Burette (18cc) and with help from John at SC he produced the following:

73.5 Dia. Pistons
81.3 mm Stroke

Cylinder Volume = 345cc

18cc Head
3.5cc Gasket
7cc Piston dish
2.5cc Valve cuts
0.8cc Ring land
0.0 Deck volume

Total Volume = 31.8cc

Compression Ratio = 345 + 31.8 / 31.8 = 11.84:1

Attached File  DSC_0006_640x425.jpg   46.24K   190 downloads

Over the past few months I have spent a lot of time trying to decide what gear set and final drive to buy, and to be honest its been a bit of a nightmare. I contacted John from guess-works.co.uk and he decided that the best compromise for top end and acceleration for both road and race use would be the A+ 4 SYNCRO S/C ST RATIO Gear set with a 3.44:1 FD Crown Wheel & Pinion. John is a really nice chap who knows his stuff when it comes to mini gearboxes, he can also build you any spec gearbox for a really good price. There is also a lot of useful information on his website, check it out! Here are all the goodies ready to go into the casing. Ive been told this is mini porn. :P

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Completed the build of the X-pin diff with the 3.44:1 FD Crown Wheel & Pinion:

Attached File  DSC_0001_640x425.jpg   40.93K   81 downloads
Attached File  DSC_0002_640x425.jpg   38.84K   72 downloads

I’m currently waiting for all my aluminium casings to be hot dipped as I they have been bead blasted. Pics to follow soon. As soon as i get them back the gearbox will be assembled.


The next items to purchase are:

SC Stainless Steel Exhaust Manifold
SC ECU
Crank
Pistons
Rods
1:1 S/C Drop Gears

I hope to post another update soon.

Warren

Attached Files



#12 patlink

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Posted 25 October 2010 - 07:27 PM

coming along now
so your not opting for dry decked then if you already had the head skimmed

#13 mini_nutz

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Posted 25 October 2010 - 08:05 PM

coming along now
so your not opting for dry decked then if you already had the head skimmed


Nope not going for the dry deck option, dont really see the point as i dont do that many races as its my weekend car. At the end of the day if your head gasket goes in a race or the road you still have to replace it & at 150 quid a pop, i dont intend to go through any. I guess there is cooling advantages with the ability to get more water and oil in and out again but still dont see the point, in unnecessary cost for dry decking it. Unless there is something im missing out on???

#14 wolfie

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Posted 25 October 2010 - 08:43 PM

coming along now
so your not opting for dry decked then if you already had the head skimmed


Nope not going for the dry deck option, dont really see the point as i dont do that many races as its my weekend car. At the end of the day if your head gasket goes in a race or the road you still have to replace it & at 150 quid a pop, i dont intend to go through any. I guess there is cooling advantages with the ability to get more water and oil in and out again but still dont see the point, in unnecessary cost for dry decking it. Unless there is something im missing out on???


I am sure its the other way round, if you dry deck it you can use a standard gasket like the bk450, if you dont you have to use the expensive gasket, put a post up on EFI as i may be wrong.

#15 DAVEY_C

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Posted 26 October 2010 - 08:05 AM

nice little project mate.... ill be watching this one because i hope to do the same soon...




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