dashboard
#1
Posted 17 November 2005 - 01:11 PM
#2
Posted 17 November 2005 - 03:34 PM
But here's a description of what all the switches are for:
# 3-position switch, no markings - sidelights, and dipped beam
# switch with orange light - rear foglamp (if you have one)
# switch with red light - hazzard switch
# switch with green light - rear screen heater
# switch with red light - bulb tester for brake fluid level (which never works, since the terminals corrode, and sometimes are just cut off - dont worry about it)
on the clocks:
# green light - indicators
# blue light - main beam
# red light - alternator charge warning light, lights up if for some reason, the alternator isn't giving the correct voltage to charge your battery
# orange light - oil pressure warning light, if the pressure drops below 5psi, it'll come on. There is a VERY high chance that you can cause severre damage to your engine, since it should should be getting around 30psi minimum!
The oil pressure light will come on if you go round a R.Hand turn too quickly, as all the oil drains to the other side of the gearbox. But if it comes on whilst you're driving normally - TURN YOUR ENGINE OFF! Unless you really want to have to buy another one to replace your terminally knackered one
#3
Posted 17 November 2005 - 05:04 PM
#4
Posted 17 November 2005 - 05:16 PM
#5
Posted 17 November 2005 - 05:46 PM
theres two pull out things, one is choke I know, whats the other? looks like wavy heat picture
#6
Posted 17 November 2005 - 05:47 PM
red and orange warning lights came on when I turnked the key in the ignition but went away when I started it up and started driving..it depends on how many switches you have, as there are 2 switch (VERY early minis) 4 switch, and 5 switch variations
But here's a description of what all the switches are for:
# 3-position switch, no markings - sidelights, and dipped beam
# switch with orange light - rear foglamp (if you have one)
# switch with red light - hazzard switch
# switch with green light - rear screen heater
# switch with red light - bulb tester for brake fluid level (which never works, since the terminals corrode, and sometimes are just cut off - dont worry about it)
on the clocks:
# green light - indicators
# blue light - main beam
# red light - alternator charge warning light, lights up if for some reason, the alternator isn't giving the correct voltage to charge your battery
# orange light - oil pressure warning light, if the pressure drops below 5psi, it'll come on. There is a VERY high chance that you can cause severre damage to your engine, since it should should be getting around 30psi minimum!
The oil pressure light will come on if you go round a R.Hand turn too quickly, as all the oil drains to the other side of the gearbox. But if it comes on whilst you're driving normally - TURN YOUR ENGINE OFF! Unless you really want to have to buy another one to replace your terminally knackered one
still getting over the utter luxury of having a petrol gauge... on my GN250 I had to use the odometer - knew I could get up to 80, and 90 was pushing it before filling up.
So far I think from empty I have put in about £30...
#7
Posted 17 November 2005 - 06:10 PM
The second pull cable is the heat control for the heater. Depending on the age of your car it will be on maximum heat when it's either fully in or fully out. Don't try to twist lock this cable like the choke or you'll break it, there is no spring return. Actually, if your car is newer than about '90 you shouldn't twist the choke cable either as they changed to a ratchet type and it'll break too.
#8
Posted 17 November 2005 - 06:10 PM
very interesting to hear all the variations as well
#9
Posted 17 November 2005 - 06:58 PM
I had a go at twist locking the choke but couldnt get it to do it - figured it just doesnt have that, just springs back in.. which is okay, means I wont be driving away before it warmed up!!Yes the warning lights should do that. It's part of how they work but it also lets you check that the bulbs and circuits are still working. They should go out fairly quickly when you start the engine. You should press the brake test switch every now and then for the same reason, as if this lights up on it's own it means you are low on brake fluid. Although as has been said the circuit is normally broken somewhere.
The second pull cable is the heat control for the heater. Depending on the age of your car it will be on maximum heat when it's either fully in or fully out. Don't try to twist lock this cable like the choke or you'll break it, there is no spring return. Actually, if your car is newer than about '90 you shouldn't twist the choke cable either as they changed to a ratchet type and it'll break too.
as for the heating thing, well thats all still beyond me at the moment, got on off switch, screen, car, and another on off thingy.. (sorry cant remember exactly) I dont know the intricies of heat control in cars... dont think the yugo even had that kind of malarky.. (or if it did I never used it)
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