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#1 Sam Walters

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 10:03 PM

Hello lads and lasses, Iv`e been badgering about these bits of the forums. For a while now. My previous car was 118bhp and less then 600kg, it really did not suit a stereo.
However, iv`e bought another mini, This is a standard 998, and will be staying that way. Its my daily driver, but i dont mind pottering about in it. Performance isen`t what i`m after with this car.

Slow and well, errr slow is the aim of the Game. So adding a good 100kg with a decent stereo doesn't make much difference to me.

Now shall i babble the kit shall i?

Sound insulation


Firstly. Sound insulation. Ive currently have 30 square foot or 2.5mm thick E-DEAD in my car. However this will probably Increase to 60 As iv`e only managed to get both sides of the parcel shelf, the bootlid, boot, rear bulkhead and fuel tank done so far and probably used 3/4 of the roll.

Now sound blocking, is going to be a budget solution. (Why go expensive when you don`t need too?) Camping mats.....(No really) Chop these up and they act as a cracking noise barrier! Cheap solution. Around 5 pounds each, I recon i`m going to need 5 in total.

25 pounds for that then. The roll of e-dead was 42 pounds. That brings sound deadning upto around the 120 pounds mark. If i use a second roll of e-dead.

Front end

Firstly, I`m straying away from the normal Mini setup. My component front end will consist of three speakers a side.
Also to add to this, Its going to be run fully active. For this!

So for the front speakers.

Posted Image
Rainbow SLX230 DELUXE

This is my high and mid range (On their way!)

I`m still searching for 8 inch mid bass speakers.

Amplification

I`m going to be running two amplifiers.

A single amplifier for the front end.
A single for the sub woofer.

I already in my possession. Have an amplifier for the front end! Old School goodness!
A Dragster DA606! Now you say, an un branded amp, not to worry. Its got a Denon board inside, top quality stuff this!

The single amplifier for the sub woofer i`m yet to source. However ive got my eyes on an old school Audio System amplifier.

Power
For this i have three distribution blocks.

An Auto leads 0 gauge in, 4 gauge out. Fused distribution block. 2 x 30amp fuse
An Auto Leads earth distribution block
Custom remote distribution block. (Me molesting some 19mm ally square bar for 10 minutes. 7x5mm holes. 3 tapped to m6)
Inline fuse holder 60amp fuse.

096 battery 75AH (Hope this will fit with a boot lining kit)
70 Amp SPI Alternator.
Cut off switch inline before 60amp fuse.

Knukonceptz wiring throughout.

Back End
As yet i`m unsure as to what sum i`m going to use and what box design.

Edited by Sam Walters, 06 July 2010 - 10:04 PM.


#2 carts60

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 10:16 PM

Sounds like you're very clued up mate and have a lot of money to spend. Il be keeping a close eye on how this goes for you? Are you doing a full rear seat sub set up or something different and more inventive? Where are you going to put the amps and how are you going to fit 3 speakers up front??

#3 Sam Walters

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 10:53 PM

Sounds like you're very clued up mate and have a lot of money to spend. Il be keeping a close eye on how this goes for you? Are you doing a full rear seat sub set up or something different and more inventive? Where are you going to put the amps and how are you going to fit 3 speakers up front??


A single 12 rear loaded into a folded tapered horn in the boot. I wont have an awful lot of boot space left after i`m finished! I might be able to get a kit-kat in there.

#4 carts60

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 11:32 PM

Thought about how the air is going to be displaced in the boot?? You get no air movement into the cabin which is where you want it - and your boot is going to rattle like something awful!!

#5 Sam Walters

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Posted 07 July 2010 - 06:21 AM

Thought about how the air is going to be displaced in the boot?? You get no air movement into the cabin which is where you want it - and your boot is going to rattle like something awful!!


Boot wont rattle, its got nearly 20 square foot of sound deadening in there. As for movement of air, well there is a 40 square inch gap around the rear bulkhead into the cabin.

#6 minilester

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Posted 07 July 2010 - 06:45 AM

Thought about how the air is going to be displaced in the boot?? You get no air movement into the cabin which is where you want it - and your boot is going to rattle like something awful!!


Boot wont rattle, its got nearly 20 square foot of sound deadening in there. As for movement of air, well there is a 40 square inch gap around the rear bulkhead into the cabin.



..or.. if you tune a box with a 10 to 12" speaker 1 cu.ft to 2.5 cu.ft (depending which one you use) and have a solid bass port coming out the top of the box, through the parcel shelf and flush (ish) with the shelf itself you have shed loads of bass and not need a really big amp to drive it either.... if you tune it to around 32Hz you'll get a nice deep rich bass coming through and poss. 4 x 6.5 inch infinity's in the kick board run in parallel with each other (as there only 2ohm speakers and you can turn them in to 2 sets of 4ohm) and you'll fill the mid-bass section with a nice kick!

cant remember the model of the infinitys... 6532i's or something... they're just mid-bass drivers so you can set up the hight pass filter on the amp to drive them beautifully!

#7 Sam Walters

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Posted 07 July 2010 - 09:20 AM

a ported box will not play flat enough for what im after. Im looking for it to play between 20-37hz. With perhaps 2db range.

Perhaps a hybrid box might be in order. But untill i know what sub and what space i have to work with. I wont be able to design the box.

#8 Sam Walters

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 08:43 PM

Decided that i`m going to go for a "simple" transmission line style setup. Although im still yet to contact a company who make boot boards about dimensions of the space available too me.

My feeling is i`m going to have tune quite high.

Pretty much. I need to make the port, well cone or line if you want to call it that. A 1/4 of the length, of the frequency i`m using (What shocking grammar!)

Sound travels though air at around: 350m/s @ 20c

So.....

25hz = 14.0 meters Quarter wave length: 3.500 meters Internal box length with three folds: 1.166 meters
26hz = 13.4 meters Quarter wave length: 3.350 meters Internal box length with three folds: 1.116 meters
27hz = 12.9 meters Quarter wave length: 3.225 meters Internal box length with three folds: 1.075 meters
28hz = 12.5 meters Quarter wave length: 3.125 meters Internal box length with three folds: 1.041 meters
29hz = 12.0 meters Quarter wave length: 3.000 meters Internal box length with three folds: 1.000 meters
30hz = 11.6 meters Quarter wave length: 2.900 meters Internal box length with three folds: 0.966 meters
31hz = 11.3 meters Quarter wave length: 2.825 meters Internal box length with three folds: 0.941 meters
32hz = 10.9 meters Quarter wave length: 2.725 meters Internal box length with three folds: 0.908 meters
33hz = 10.6 meters Quarter wave length: 2.650 meters Internal box length with three folds: 0.883 meters
34hz = 10.2 meters Quarter wave length: 2.550 meters Internal box length with three folds: 0.850 meters
35hz = 10.0 meters Quarter wave length: 2.500 meters Internal box length with three folds: 0.833 meters
36hz = 9.7 meters Quarter wave length: 2.425 meters Internal box length with three folds: 0.808 meters
37hz = 9.4 meters Quarter wave length: 2.350 meters Internal box length with three folds: 0.783 meters

Bring on 140DB @ ≥ 750wrms.

That`s all folks.

Edited by Sam Walters, 08 July 2010 - 08:43 PM.


#9 Ouster

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 08:46 PM

I'd love to know how you are going to mount the speakers up front.

#10 Sam Walters

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 08:49 PM

Just ran out with a tape measure, might only have 70cm to play with.

4 length box it is then perhaps tuned to 31/32/33hz.

#11 Sam Walters

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 09:00 PM

Tweeter and midrange, baffle bonded to front, plastic tube bonded to back. Sealed at the end. Hot glue bodging!

Tweeter and mid range.
Posted Image

Well 8 inch mid bass are going to be floor mounted pods.

Posted Image


Hope to get my front end in by the end of this month. T18. Got some pods in a spl golf to help out with too before then. 1.4krms front end! Madness!

Edited by Sam Walters, 08 July 2010 - 09:07 PM.


#12 carts60

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 09:38 PM

Pods in the footwells is a nice idea. Might have to give that a go myself. Looks like all the planning is goin nicely

#13 Sam Walters

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 10:58 PM

Pods in the footwells is a nice idea. Might have to give that a go myself. Looks like all the planning is goin nicely


Wait till it all goes tits up when i start fabricating :withstupid:

#14 Matt

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 10:54 AM

With the setup you propose.. you'll get a reasonable front soundstage....
mixed with a good headunit you'll be onto a winner..

096 battery 75AH (Hope this will fit with a boot lining kit)


personally.... id consider an optima battery... they have a nice rating but rather than mount it in the boot.. relocate it under the rear seats. being a self contained battery means it wont leak. This leaves more room in the boot! :-

a ported box will not play flat enough for what im after. Im looking for it to play between 20-37hz. With perhaps 2db range.

Perhaps a hybrid box might be in order. But untill i know what sub and what space i have to work with. I wont be able to design the box.

Those ranges are reasonably easy to achieve....
Sealed or ported.

Though.. in a mini it wont get anywhere near its full potential.. purely due to the characteristics of the body.

If you want some advice on floor pods.. id consider speaking to Mike (chicken)
he had some wicked pods he'd made for dash and floor.. and his system sounded pitch perfect.

The idea of mounting the speakers into the dash is nice... but what will clearence be like on the other side??
You might be better sealing them from the rear as well.

Edited by Matt, 10 July 2010 - 10:59 AM.


#15 Sam Walters

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 10:29 PM

This is on hold for perhaps two weeks, been an expensive week this. I can at least look at getting the amplifier plumbed in, need a 0awg fuse holder though mind.




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