I dont understand why a shaft would damage a diff or a diff damage a shaft ??????????
It went from 50/50 load to 100% load to the right side after the shaft snapped.
That is the only thing I know and with some logic I would think that an instant power shift could damage the inside.
Currently I am in discussion with ZCars about the diff and the costs. Before the shaft snapped, it was all ok and I had power on both sides. I know this because the shaft on the right side was also twisted in the middle. So from my point of view, the diff was damaged because of a faulty drive shaft.
Patrick (who is still waiting...)
i had problems with my diff throwing the passenger side shaft out, so once i bought a new shaft and had the cv joint machined put it all back together, it done the same again, ( the diff chewes the end of the cv joint off when this happens) so after weeks of the shaft popping out chris asked me to send the diff back (gripper) he explained that due to the shaft popping out that it had chewed one of the internal gears, so i had a bill of £150 to put it right, but being honest i dont feel that i should have paid for any of the repairs as the mini had only covered around 400 miles, and surely gripper diffs have some guarantee on them
other problems i had with the diff from new was very bad vibration at 70mph, heavy clunking when goiing around roundabouts, but after it came back it was like driving a different car, no probs since really
Ed, sad to hear that I am not the only one. You were lucky by identifying this big problem with the shafts before one of them snapped and would ruin your diff too.
I hope to get a satisfying answer from ZCars tomorrow on my birthday. I will keep my fingers crossed.
When I get news I will keep you posted!
As you may have guessed from my earlier posts on Diffs I personaaly dont like the Gripper, it is MY OPINION that its too harsh for road driving and I am quite sure Al Reidy (who has had both in his car) will agree.
When I had my car dyno'd it flagged up a problem with the diff which is what prompted me to swap for the Quaife ATB. Chris disagreed that there was anything wrong with the gripper and commented that it was were the VTEC kicked in - but mine VTEC's at 3000RPM so it simply wasnt that.
Below is the output from the dyno, the beauty of the Rototest is that they give the output from each wheel, if you look at either of the two sets of curves (BHP or Torque you will see two lines, one is the left driveshaft and one is the right driveshaft attached to the dynos. Notice that one driveshaft for no reason (I spoke with the tuner about it and he said there was no drop in revs) loses drive then re-grips, spiking the graph - as it comes back it into line it causes the other driveshaft to spike.......C'mon you cant tell me that isnt the diff.....its the only thing in the car that variances the drive to either wheel.....
Quaife do an ATB for use in bike engined cars too........................
Patrick - I hope you get yours sorted soon - and Happy Birthday!!!
Edited by cptkirk, 10 February 2011 - 02:59 PM.