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Perished threading on rad mount.


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#1 nev_payne

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Posted 28 November 2005 - 12:35 PM

...and no matter how many times you turn the bolt withthe nut locked in place the bugger wont shift - preventing a nice new 4-core rad going into my red'un. Even with the grille off, I feel this is going to be a bugger of a task. Can anyone recommend a simple solution? Sawing has been attempted, but without asking the engine nicely to budge over, I can't reach.

#2 Jammy

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Posted 28 November 2005 - 01:30 PM

Is there still much thread on the top!? You could try sticking two more nuts on, the tightening one against the other to take the whole stud off? Other than that, a good soaking in Plusgas/WD40, couple of hits to the top of the stud with a hammer, to shock it free, bit of heat and mole grips to remove the stud.

Will ruin the thread with the mole girps, but I think you've arrived at that station now anyway!

#3 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 28 November 2005 - 01:36 PM

Which bolt we taling about here, as I'm still a little confused :D

#4 nev_payne

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Posted 28 November 2005 - 01:37 PM

The one attaching rad mount to the subframe...almost acts like a hinge when you remove the top radiator-engine link (the 3 bolt triangular one). The biggest bolt theres is in relation to the radiator basically :tongue:

Yeh I've reach rounded-bolt end station... :D

The other 4 holding the rad to the frame come off without quibble or fuss....I think a new shoud and mounting system would come in very usefull,as I'm sure that ones the original - you can tell by the dents. :D

#5 Jammy

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Posted 28 November 2005 - 01:42 PM

Oops, I have no idea why, but I thought you were talking about one of the thermostat housing bolts!

#6 nev_payne

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Posted 28 November 2005 - 02:00 PM

Noooo lol...thats another problem i have but is fixable...no this is the bottom bolt of the rad mount.

#7 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 28 November 2005 - 02:15 PM

ah... yes.. it goes through a metal sleve, which it very kindly rusts too...

There's two ways out of this.. as you do realy need this bolt...

1. remove the rad from the casing by undoing the 4 bolts and the bottom hose and it can be dragged out that way....

or my preferred method..

Support the engine on a trolley jack. remove the two subframe to engine mount bolts and then the two long bolts attaching the bracket to the gearbox.. and take the whole lot out in one... gives you the ability to sort out the bottom bolt then too..

#8 nev_payne

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Posted 28 November 2005 - 03:09 PM

LOL...the day I take an engine out is the day my mini either goes to heaven or I become a glorified engineer of minis :D

I'll try option one...it was attempted before, resulting in a very wet subframe, and the jubilee on the bottom hose refusing to come off...old age of course. I'll see what I can do, and may come back to you on more detailed instructions on subframe and engine removal

:smartass:

#9 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 28 November 2005 - 03:10 PM

You dont need to remove the engine, you're basically removing the bracket the engine mount happens to be attached to...

#10 nev_payne

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Posted 28 November 2005 - 05:01 PM

Thats an interesting way to put it lol.




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