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Crank Balancing


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#16 ANON

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Posted 02 November 2010 - 08:59 PM

you can dry sump a mini engine.

#17 danrock101

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Posted 02 November 2010 - 09:04 PM

There's a big differnce between a central oil pick up pipe and a dry sump, I wouldn't want someone who can mix the two up working on my engine! :P

#18 ANON

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Posted 02 November 2010 - 09:14 PM

There's a big differnce between a central oil pick up pipe and a dry sump, I wouldn't want someone who can mix the two up working on my engine! :P


who mentioned central pick up pipe?

#19 morley

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Posted 02 November 2010 - 09:14 PM

deffinantly walk away and find somewhere else!

I would recommened getting the balencing done, i wasn't sure about getting mine done when i built my engine but i built my engine with the idea that i would gradually increase performance as and when, so i done it right first time and built it up with parts that i didnt really need for my spec but knew i would need if i ever upgraded... which i am now

my engine builder found my crank to be out of balance by 17 grams, doesn't sound alot but when things are spinning at 6000rpm+...

and also try shopping around and find someone who actually know alot about minis, to balance my crank and flywheel assembly was £60 and rods and pistons were £45 :P

#20 mini93

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Posted 02 November 2010 - 09:22 PM

you can dry sump a mini engine.


how do you manage that? my windage tray has been modified in both plains to find clearance for gears and also crank :P

#21 ANON

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Posted 02 November 2010 - 09:55 PM

mate of mine has got a block stashed away somewhere that has been done, looks interesting to say the least!!
will see if it's handy and get couple of pics but he's got a living room full of bits and i do mean stacked about 6' high!!
don't know how the box was done as he aint got that with it. has got a pump bolted on where the fuel pump would go.
don't know if it was done by turner tuning as it came with two turner twin cam engines he bought but think they only did rear wheel drive stuff??
this is deff. transverse engine though.

have a look on google, can't remember what it was on but read a couple of bits about semi/dry sumped transverse a series somewhere.

Edited by ANON, 02 November 2010 - 09:56 PM.


#22 ANON

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Posted 02 November 2010 - 10:06 PM

here you go...
Posted Image

it's simlar to that one. the tank that came with it was pretty big, looks like it would hold a good 3 gallons.

#23 Shifty

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Posted 02 November 2010 - 10:22 PM

Thats not a mini engine??

Looks more like a minor/spridget lump to me as its rear wheel drive and will have the gearbox behind the engine not underneath.

#24 ANON

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Posted 02 November 2010 - 10:54 PM

Thats not a mini engine??

Looks more like a minor/spridget lump to me as its rear wheel drive and will have the gearbox behind the engine not underneath.


i know, it's just similar set up to the one my mate has got. his is deff transverse engine. as said don't know if it's poss something turner tuning did?

#25 Wil_h

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Posted 03 November 2010 - 06:20 AM

You can drysump a transverse mini engine. But it's not a common mod. The main reason it has been done in the past is because the engine has been inclined massively (usually to fit in the rear of a kit/race car, but also in sone FWD Jap racers).

But in this case, there is no point.

#26 MRA

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Posted 03 November 2010 - 06:28 AM

They have a funny way of giving "good advice" ! getting a dry sump confused with a central oil pick up ? they probably got balancing mixed up tyre sizes....... (sarcasm)

#27 Cooperman

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Posted 03 November 2010 - 08:56 AM

Can I ask how a 296 cam, which has little below about 4000 rpm and which peaks at around 6700, running strong up to 7200 will work on an engine with a notional rev limit of 6000. It won't even be anywhere near its max potential at 6000 and you'll beed such a low final drive ratio just to pull away from rest, especially with an ultra-light flywheel, that the max cruising speed at even 6000 rpm will be quite low. The 296 is a race cam and is not suitable for the nroad. the 1380, as 'bmc...' says, is a high-torque engine and, unless it's a race/track only car, needs a cam which will perform mid-range and be useable right through its design range. There is little point in having a cam designed for sustained use at between 5500 to 7500 rpm, if you can't pull over 6000 rpm without risking the engine blowing up.

#28 1977 Loud_Mini

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Posted 03 November 2010 - 10:24 AM

Well i'll give the cam ago and if i need the crank wedged etc etc to get it to perform safely over 6000rpm then i will have to remove and split the engine again. Some people i have spoken to about a 296 on a 1380 find it fairly drivable but we all learn through experience.

Evan.

#29 Ethel

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Posted 03 November 2010 - 11:25 AM

I reckon they just didn't have the kit to balance it. The point about oil is that it will effect the balance as it drains down the crank, doesn't mean the balance can't be improved though. The dynamic balance will change if you alter any of the rotating parts it seems reasonable to want to restore it if you're attempting to improve an engine.

i'm not getting why a 1380 won't rev almost as well as a smaller engine built on the same bottom end. The breathing characteristics will change, lowering where it produces the best torque and power but you may well want to run it at higher revs.

#30 samsfern

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Posted 03 November 2010 - 12:49 PM

i dont get why people say a car with a race cam will not be drivable on the road, i have a 649+ race cam, its perfectly fine for me, i use it everyday, just have to drive it a bit differently, its not bad in traffic either, just have to keep it revving so the plugs dont soot up.




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