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My T4 Mini....my First Ever Build!


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#61 benmoffat

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Posted 14 August 2011 - 03:06 PM

Just a quick update after todays work.

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#62 RED HOT

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Posted 15 August 2011 - 01:13 PM

You can start moving in the right direction at last! Bet you are well happy.

How is it in the flesh? and is this a trial before paint? or you masking up and leaving it in during that process?

Didn't realise it was a hatch shell either, nice and easy access for maintenance.

#63 benmoffat

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Posted 15 August 2011 - 06:23 PM

Yea Im pretty happy with getting it in there now, and soon it will look like a car again! Cant wait to get the front subframe on and on all 4 wheels.
I wasnt too keen on the hatch shell originally if Im honest, but im hoping from a distance it will look the same as a standard Mini as the number plate and everything are in the normal place, and it uses a standard rear window. And having a complete exposed weave shell kind of makes up for it!

The kit is staying where it is. The inside is not being painted, it will be completely trimmed. So its just going to be masked up to have paint sprayed from the bottom of the windows up to the roof. Then all over with laquer. Thats the plan anyway!

Edited by benmoffat, 15 August 2011 - 06:24 PM.


#64 benmoffat

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 05:46 PM

Just a tiny update from the last few days, got some shiney new bits fitted!
Next job is the headlining, have the material here (grey alcantara) but got to take the kit out again as I cant get it round the roof bars. Then its kit back in and to the painters,

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#65 2000lukey

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 11:42 AM

Have not heard from you in a while, did you get the front subframe in ok in the end?
Spacers work ok?
Would be interesting to see your pick up points for the chassis, I was not happy with mine so I have had to add extra supports to the chassis and fix to the shell,
How far are you from Swindon?

#66 benmoffat

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 12:25 PM

I still havent got the front subframe on properly. Im still making some spacers to use on the inside of the shell. I couldnt quite work out how your spacers worked from the drawing or how to get them made, but what Im thinking of doing now is basically a steel tube with an inside diameter to fit the subframe bolt through. Then on the top of the steel tube have a flat plate welded on which will sit on the top of the shell and ill put 4 bolts through to fix it to the shell. Then have another tube that fits inside that one with 4 bolts on the bottom.

That way the top rollcage arm will be bolted into the front subframe through these tubes, and the tubes wil be bolted to the shell. I hope this will work and be strong enough and it should stop any crushing of the shell.
Thats the only way I can see round it at the moment, The good news is the bottom fixings went straight up against the shell so dont need any packers there.

Im using the machines and materials at work so havent been able to do anything at home over the holidays. When Ive got it all together Ill get some photos up on here

Im probably about 2 hours from Swindon.

Edited by benmoffat, 02 January 2012 - 12:27 PM.


#67 2000lukey

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 12:54 PM

Basically the spacer I made sits on top of the front subframe when inserted into the shell, it is machined to pinch the fibreglass rather than crush it when the bolt is tightened, then the top is machined to take the tower-bolt washer (supplied by z-cars) and pinch the fibreglass from the top.
As I to want to be sure no stress or as little as possible is transferred through the shell, pm me your number and I will give you a call as it is best to explain in a conversation.
I can get them made if it's a problem for you.
I can also send you some photos of my one, not sure how close a minus is to yours?

#68 benmoffat

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 11:18 AM

After a long break from it I thought Id try and get the shell sorted once and for all. So braved the cold and got out to bolt it all in.

Ive got a problem with the extension arms that go to the front subframe. I can seem to get the frame all in line and where it needs to be because of these arms. As the rest of the cage bolts to the front subframe I assembled the whole thing rather than just bolt in the rear as the instructions, So it has to be exactly in the right place. But as you can see from the photos I cant get the driveres side over far enough as the arm hits the inside of the shell wheelarch area.

Has anyone had the same problem? The passenger side seems ok as its in line with the rear and the bottom plate is right up against the side of the shell. I really dont want to cut the shell as thats on the front and theres nothing to cover it! So thought Id check on here. It would be great if anyone could offer some more advice on this please.

Thanks

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#69 cptkirk

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 08:13 AM

To me it seems like you have two choices, you either a) cut the shell and reform it around the bar or b) make a new or hack and reweld the bar so it fits around the shell.

Also it doesnt appear very straight in the shell, is this the shell or the kit thats out of line?

If it were me I would look to staighten the kit in the shell then sort the metal arms/bars out so I didnt have to chop the shell around - I say this because I am happier working with metal than GRP/Carbon. You may need to use spacers under the frame to make up the space, just buy some Ali or acetal/dlrin sheet of the right height and make your own.

Lastly, do you have a floor bar with your kit? if you do then great, if not what are you going to bolt the bottom of the front subframe to as it comes through the shell floor?

#70 vtecmini2

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 09:06 PM

HI, this was one of the problems we had with mine, what zcars did was bar some new bar and reposition them. The advange i had my frame was not powder coated it was still being made what we came across this problem

thanks john

#71 jonny f

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 08:03 PM

Any updates?

#72 2000lukey

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 08:47 PM

How you getting on Ben? Making progress with the build??..

#73 benmoffat

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 09:02 PM

Hi Luke.

Basically no progress since last update. Been so busy with work and moving house I just haven't had time for it.

And I have come to the conclusion that I don't want to do any more work on the mini at all. I have just had enough. After minimal progress since I bought the kit, I have realized in nearly 2 years I have achieved nothing under my own merit. So I am planning on sending it away in a couple of weeks for someone to finish.I need to get it on the road and just hope it will be worth it in the end.


Edited by benmoffat, 01 July 2013 - 06:35 PM.


#74 benmoffat

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 01:47 PM

I hadn’t realised how long it had really been since I last posted on here!

The Mini is finally built and registered. Although it is on the road there is still some work needed. I’ve got to finish the interior, and I also am having trouble getting it to run properly.

I am running the T4 Volvo engine with DTA S40 ecu. Is anyone on here running the same set up? I was wondering if anyone had a map available for this ecu that I could use to get it going properly. There is a base map in there at the moment but it only really starts and runs up to about 3000 rpm, I don’t think it’s tuned above that.

Hopefully if I can install one from someone else using this same engine it will be a good starting point.

Also can anyone recommend a rolling road/dyno/DTA mapping person in the south west? Any help would be greatly appreciated, just need to get over these last few hurdles to be able to drive it this summer!

Thanks



#75 cptkirk

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Posted 16 March 2017 - 04:41 PM

I hadn’t realised how long it had really been since I last posted on here!

The Mini is finally built and registered. Although it is on the road there is still some work needed. I’ve got to finish the interior, and I also am having trouble getting it to run properly.

I am running the T4 Volvo engine with DTA S40 ecu. Is anyone on here running the same set up? I was wondering if anyone had a map available for this ecu that I could use to get it going properly. There is a base map in there at the moment but it only really starts and runs up to about 3000 rpm, I don’t think it’s tuned above that.

Hopefully if I can install one from someone else using this same engine it will be a good starting point.

Also can anyone recommend a rolling road/dyno/DTA mapping person in the south west? Any help would be greatly appreciated, just need to get over these last few hurdles to be able to drive it this summer!

Thanks

 

Pictures please.....

 

well done on getting it on the road!!






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