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engine removal


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#1 THedooBZ

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Posted 27 December 2005 - 03:07 PM

i am currently removing my engine and have got down to basically just needing to lift the engine,

what i need to know is this;
is it possible to remove the front subframe and engine in one peice and then detach afterwards as i do not have access to a crane/hoist.

if this is possible is there anything i should no prior to removal, i think i would have to disconnect the brakes but im not sure???

#2 minidaves

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Posted 27 December 2005 - 03:17 PM

to remove an enigne that way u need to disconnect the bat cable, shocks and brakepipe. easier if u dont have a hoist to remove everything from the engine inc the head, the two strong people can lift it over the front, or hire a crane

dave

#3 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 27 December 2005 - 03:25 PM

You can do it either way, lift the body of the engine subframe, or engine out over the front.. Which is how I use to do it with me dad... one either side two slings ( or polyprop ) and two substantial fence posts... stood on a couple of hefty boxes either side and then lift and separate..

It's much easier with a hoist, and getting it back in is a little less hit and miss :cheese:

#4 Dan

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Posted 27 December 2005 - 03:31 PM

You need to remove everything that connects the frame to the car. As Dave says this includes the battery feed, dampers and brake lines but also the track rod ends must be split, the exhaust should be dropped off completely or it'll fowl the frame as you try to roll the body away, the gear linkage will need to be dropped from the floor pan unless you've disconnected it, the carb should be removed or you'll have trouble clearing the bulkhead, any electric fans attached to the rad will mean that the rad has to come out, all in addition to removing what's needed for a conventional removal. Get a railway sleeper and silde it under the car just ahead of the rear wheels, then when you lift the car off the frame you can roll it back and rest the front floor pan on the sleeper. Front subframes DO NOT BALANCE. If you do this you will need to chock up or use stands to support the front and rear of the front subframe securely so that it doesn't fall as you lift the body. Make sure it's well held up.

#5 THedooBZ

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Posted 27 December 2005 - 03:40 PM

thanx for the advice guys, just found out my next door neighbour still has his engine winch still set up in his garage :grin:

hes agreed to let me use it. because you have to remove the driveshafts can you remove them diff end then rebuild hub end to create a rolling chassis???

#6 Dan

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Posted 27 December 2005 - 03:51 PM

It's easier to remove the shafts from both ends to make a rolling chassis otherwise you have the shafts flapping about under the bonnet as you push the car. They pull out of the joints at both ends but it is often easier to pull the joints out of the gearbox at the inboard end and then pull the whole thing out of the CV when the engine is out of the way. If you do this DRAIN THE OIL FIRST. When you pull the joints out there's nothing to keep it in and your neighbour won't be happy with it all over his drive. Just before you lift the engine, pop the joints using a cranked bar or a massive screwdriver or one of the special tools available for the job. Once they are popped off of their clips, they will withdraw easily from the engine as you lift it up with just a little coaxing as you go. Careful not to let them drop down on their own as you lift the engine out. Once you're finished you can knock the inner joints off of the shafts with a hammer and drift while holding the shaft in a vice so you can reuse or exchange the joints after cleaning.

Jammy will probably come on here and tell you about his method of cutting the gaiter of the joint. Ignore him. :wub:

#7 THedooBZ

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Posted 27 December 2005 - 04:14 PM

fuuny you should say that about draining the oil, as when i first discovered the problem the other week which meant to get the engine out i didnt!!!

i popped the inner cv joint out, it came off quite easy, felt quite chuffed and got out from under the car only to discover as i got from under my oil was on the floor.
now feeling not so chuffed.

i think ill go wit your suggestion of popping them loose then just lifting, the only bit i need to do now is the roll pin on g-box. iv already read about this as someone else has bought it up recently.

#8 copperhead51

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 03:59 AM

Most helpful because im at the point of taking the engine out in mine! Any tips? As this is my first time doing anything really drastic on this Mini.

#9 lrostoke

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 05:42 AM

If your lifting the engine out from the car. Remove the dizzy, starter motor, clutch slave and also the radiator side engine mounting bracket. This just gives a few less things to snag as your lifting out and saves damaging them.
If your car as a servo lift the engine so the radiator side comes out higher than the drivers side. This will help to clear the brake pipes. Also pushing the radiator side backwards and pulling drivers side foreward so engine comes out at an angle .

Pot joints will pull out without removing driveshafts at hub end, just a matter of twisting the engine once its so high. Then may have to just lever slightly to free them.

Just removed and refitting one this weekend ;)

#10 copperhead51

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 06:43 PM

Cool! Thank you!! That will help me out a lot, and save a lot of time! Now on your engine removal did you clean up the exterior of the engine at all? Or get it back to that stock green color?

#11 lrostoke

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 07:04 PM

Personal choice really, we just used a bit of petrol and stiff paint brush and gave it a scrubbing, brake disc cleaner is good as well for cleaning oil and muck :)

We only removed ours to swap gearboxes, sister managed to mash one, luckily we had a spare :)

#12 Spitz

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 07:10 PM

Don't forget to undo the speedo cable at the rad end of the transmission when the unit is high enough.

As for the servo...I found it much easier to undo the servo....lift it up and over onto the top of the wing. The brake lines flex easily enought.....then the engine can come straight up.

#13 copperhead51

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 09:18 PM

Sweeeet thanks guys! I'll keep all in mind this weekend for sure! And have to keep visiting this page to make sure i get everything right :P haha

Ok cool Irostoke, yah I didn't know if just good engine degreaser would work or if there where any tricks you guys have. I have plenty of Brakeleen so ill just go to town!

#14 VinnyS

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Posted 13 October 2023 - 10:21 AM

Is it possible to pop the wheels back on once the engine is out?? I've a tiny garage so I'd love to roll the mini out ao Ive a bit of room to clean the engine!

 

V



#15 Bobbins

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Posted 13 October 2023 - 10:54 AM

I usually split the top ball joint on both sides to enable the driveshafts and hub assemblies to be moved outboard a little, then split the pot joints from the gearbox. I've recently invested in one of the Minispares pot joint splitters which although not a cheap tool at £30, it makes light work of getting the pot joints out. With the engine out I then reconnect the top ball joints and refit the wheels so that the car can easily be moved around, insert scrap cardboard in each subframe hole around the driveshafts and the car can be pushed without the driveshaft rubbing on the subframe, no need to completely remove the driveshafts.

 

And as already mentioned, don't forget the speedo cable, put a big reminder note on the windscreen!


Edited by Bobbins, 13 October 2023 - 10:55 AM.





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