Light Weight Flywheel
#1
Posted 26 April 2004 - 06:39 PM
has any one done this? and if so did you notice a difference? and if so, so, what flywheel are you running, and where was it sourced? and how difficult a procedure was this?
great.
#2
Posted 26 April 2004 - 08:05 PM
its quite a bit more responsive on gearchanges, and revs up real quick now. its quite a noticeable difference compared with my old engine which was a similar state of tune, but had a standard flywheel.
my mates hillclimb car has the flywheel lightened to the max, compared with the standard one, it weighs nothing!, it has lots of metal off it, big slots , and the backplate is about half its normal weight. this is a bit extreme for road use, as it barely ticks over at all, but its full race, and they aren't known for their smooth idleing!
one thing to bear in mind if you are going for it, the standard cast flywheels are ok for road use, but if you've got a well tuned engine that pulls 8000rpm and above, you'll need a steel flywheel. the lightened cast flywheels have a habit of exploding at high rpm, doing a good impression of a hand grenade in your engine bay, and may even injure you.
#3
Posted 26 April 2004 - 09:19 PM
I agree with what BB says, much more responsive. But remember you need to have it all balanced together.
Siggy
#4
Posted 26 April 2004 - 09:24 PM
Ultra light verto? any suggestions?
#5
Posted 27 April 2004 - 07:23 AM
Siggy
#6
Posted 27 April 2004 - 01:20 PM
Get a steel Minispares flywheel & appropriate diaphragm & plate, also you'll need a backplate clutch arm etc if your changing from the Verto type.
Don't forget the starter will have to match the flywheel.
What is your engine & what state of tune is it in ?
Phil. :grin:
#7
Posted 27 April 2004 - 03:05 PM
head:
skimmed
flowed
ported
hardened valve seats
block:
standard
with 266 cam
lightened cam followers
high flow water pump
carb:
weber 40 DCOE
I'm just trying to do some optimal upgrades without re-boreing etc.
I blew my head gasket last summer so, am trying to squeeze a little more power out of it, while I'm in the process of doing the re-vamp. My pistons and rings are good so I will be keeping them as is.
I've done alot of research with regards to the cam, and have concluded that the 266 would be ideal for my set-up, especially since I plan on adding high lift rockers at a later date. I've picked up the lightened cam followers as it was strongly recommend changeing these with the cam.
I've chonsen the 40 DCOE as it should provide addequite carburation for my set-up. I know alot of people don't agree with this route but I've done all the others and wanted to see for myself.
That's as far as my knowlege base goes with regards to upgrades that I can add. Someone mentioned the addition of the light weight flywheel so I thought I'd ask some questions so I can make an informed decision. If the task of changing/cost outweighs the benefit then I'll pass, but I figured while everything is accessible if it's worth it, I'll do it.
I've never done it before, as I had the engine built when I restored my car, so it's foreign to me. But I'd like to learn so now seems an ideal time.
One last question with regards to the water pump. I have the minimania highflow pump and was reading on there site that changing the pulley to the larger one slows down the flow of water through the rad, and helps with cooling. Is this a worth addition??? or only marginaly noticable???
I appreciate the help.
j3ffr3y
#8
Posted 27 April 2004 - 04:22 PM
I have a verto box and flywheel, which i was gonna use on my 1310 (working in progress), but spare i have an 850 box which i could steal the old style housing etc off, but need to know what involved never done it b4?
Do ya want the fully spec of what i'm building?
#9
Posted 28 April 2004 - 02:45 PM
#10
Posted 28 April 2004 - 11:00 PM
Siggy
#11
Posted 29 April 2004 - 10:12 PM
One last question with regards to the water pump. I have the minimania highflow pump and was reading on there site that changing the pulley to the larger one slows down the flow of water through the rad, and helps with cooling. Is this a worth addition??? or only marginaly noticable???
The bigger pulley is usually added to high revving engines, to slow the pump down & avoid cavatation at high rpm.
The standard pulley should be fine for most road cars.
If you change to the older type clutch the Cooper S {blue dot} diaphragm should be fine for you spec of engine.
I have a verto box and flywheel, which i was gonna use on my 1310 (working in progress), but spare i have an 850 box which i could steal the old style housing etc off, but need to know what involved never done it b4?
You don't need to change the flywheel housing just the flywheel assembly. This is fairly straight forward. You will need to use the older type clutch arm and slave cylinder though.
Phil, I know you can get a lightend one but Cooper was asking about an Ultralight flywheel, not just a lightened one
Sorry not paying attention. lol
Phil. :grin:
#12
Posted 01 May 2004 - 06:20 AM
Don't worry its normally me that does that
Siggy
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users