1693 replies to this topic

[KTS]

If you can change the clutch in-situ, i can't think of a reason why you shouldn't also be able to get the transfer case off the engine to investigate where the oiil is leaking from.  not something i've done though, so don't know for sure.

 

it should be a lot easier (..and therefore quicker..) to do all this with the engine out of the car.  

[GraemeC]

I've always struggled to get the casing off in situ - getting it past the end of the crank and clearing the subframe leg and tower at the same time is a nightmare.

You end up undoing and removing so much stuff you may as well pull the engine and do the job properly - less chance of buggering something up then.

Edited by GraemeC, 27 March 2020 - 11:55 AM.

[SAL 821X]

Looks like it’ll have to come out then.

Not going to be able to do anything at the moment at its on my mums drive again and cannot get there while on lockdown.

[hoody99]

Hello stranger . Screw lock down go pick your car up and use this down time to get it tip top. I am back in the garage again after a few years away. Lol but still no mojo as i loose all interest in it as soo. As I start on a rusty bit lol ha ha. Car looks fantastic buddy I love it. You've do e a proper Job on this. Well done you.also congrats on the new addition to the family buddy. Yes time flys with them so cherish each day as they disappear fast lol hard to belive my wee lad will be 5 in a few weeks lol.

Edited by hoody99, 12 April 2020 - 09:10 AM.

[SAL 821X]

Hey hoody ?

The mot place in the village is shut at the moment so going to try him if it’s the same bloke that mot’d my 850cc but that was almost 20 years ago now lol!

Got some gasket seal on order so I’m going to loosen the bolts lower half of the bell to flywheel house and squeeze a load in and ope that fixes the leak.

Hopefully this mot guys a bit more forgiving to the old girl.

Im also wondering now if the brake imbalance the last mot guy failed it on twice could be the handbrake cables now lined up on tension?

[SAL 821X]

Evening all, 

 

thought it might be time for a mini update...

 

Due to lockdown I haven't really got much done on the van so it sat under cover other than starting it up every couple of weeks to keep things moving. 

 

I've bought a few parts and think I've found the oil leak. 

 

Untitled by Matt  Locke, on Flickr

 

It appears to be from the bell housing to clutch casing so hope fully I can undo the bolts a little and squeeze some liquid gasket in.

 

Untitled by Matt  Locke, on Flickr

 

Also bought a new dipstick as the seal on the old one was terrible! Hopefully this goes someway to helping the engine run a little better.

 

Untitled by Matt  Locke, on Flickr

 

I've started fitting some creature comforts in the cabin,

 

Untitled by Matt  Locke, on Flickr

 

Gave her a bit of a wash as it was getting filthy being under the fitted cover. Needs a good cut and polish at some point too.

 

Untitled by Matt  Locke, on Flickr

 

I've been thinking a bit about the rear brake inbalence as I've changed all the rear brakes to new parts drums, shoes, pistons and brake lines. The only thing I can think is the brake bias valve is shot.... Or the MOT tester was just an arse!

[GraemeC]

What's the engine spec?  Do you find it hard to start and maybe run a bit rough?

[SAL 821X]

It starts on the button but emissions are very high and a flat spot on light throttle at the top of the pedal. Ive got a BDE needle to try now as i think its lean maybe as the spot disappears when the chokes out.

Spec
1330cc
Hif44 + cone k&n
Swiftune sw5
Roller rockers
Skimmed head stage 3 head

[GraemeC]

For that spec, those plugs are FAR too cold - even race cars don’t run that spec often.
 

Try BP6ES - they may well cure your flat spot as your current plugs will start to foul up on tickover and low revs, and then not ignite cleanly.

Edited by GraemeC, 04 June 2020 - 09:26 PM.

[SAL 821X]

Hi GC,


Thanks never thought about plugs! I’ll pull one out this afternoon as I cannot remember which it has in.


Edit: just zoomed in on the dipstick image above and the plugs are BP9ES it looks like currently.

Edited by SAL 821X, 05 June 2020 - 05:57 AM.

[GraemeC]

Edit: just zoomed in on the dipstick image above and the plugs are BP9ES it looks like currently.

 

Yep - that's what I saw - totally the wrong heat range for your engine build.

 

6's would be the normal choice, 7's only if needed, 8's are really rare, 9's are pretty unheard of!

Edited by GraemeC, 05 June 2020 - 07:19 AM.

[SAL 821X]

Edit: just zoomed in on the dipstick image above and the plugs are BP9ES it looks like currently.

Yep - that's what I saw - totally the wrong heat range for your engine build.

6's would be the normal choice, 7's only if needed, 8's are really rare, 9's are pretty unheard of!

6’s ordered then before changing needles...

On that note i think the needle in is a ADE or C worth sticking with that and going to BDE if needed?

[GraemeC]

Not sure on that one - I’d message ACDodd!

[SAL 821X]

I’ll try the plugs first then.

[Mini Manannán]

I’ll try the plugs first then.

 

Yup, go with the plugs first Matt - only one change at a time.  Mine mini's on 7s but only because the engine builder recommended them.  I used to use 9s on my Villiers 210 kart - they were often too cold for that!