406 replies to this topic

[l_jonez]

So my next trick is to modify a rover manifold to replace the rather restrictive micra manifold

Micra with built in cat



Rover k series manifold and down pipe which will be modified






Pics to follow

[Danny_California]

Looking good Lawson, love the Micra conversion since it's a bit different. And cheaper than vtec! Shall have to pop up for a look sometime!

[batespeed]

great work so far, keep it up! you could always cut the inlet manifold at an angle to give more room, cant it forwards a bit............towards the engine.... just a thought

[l_jonez]

great work so far, keep it up! you could always cut the inlet manifold at an angle to give more room, cant it forwards a bit............towards the engine.... just a thought

Yeah that's exactly what I did on my vtec build

[l_jonez]

Forgot to update. Last week the manifold was finished (old pics, welding has since been finished)



Now the manifold fit nice and tight to the block





Just need to get on with the frame now

[bigchief3679]

Wow, i've not been on for a while but this looks great! keep the pics coming..............
I've noticed a few guys trying to simplify things by ditching EFI, but i can advise from experience that injected is the way to go.
Everything from Fuel economy (the ecu cuts fuel on decel.), warmup, ignition curve, throttle response and acceleration is better.
Even moderate upgrades (bump in fuel pressure, removal of rev limit and GA15 throttlebody) are easier to carry out on the EFI engine (i'm just saying, eh)
The extra effort invested in Fuel and wiring is well worth it [I've driven injected and carb'd CG10s and CG13s in Minis of similar weight and identical gearboxes]

[edit]Don't forget the O2 sensor bung on your headers if you are going EFI.

Edited by bigchief3679, 11 July 2011 - 02:17 AM.

[l_jonez]

Current plan is to use the Nissan efi but swap it out for dta etc when I come to do some tuning. After a lot of head scratching I welded the boss for the o2 sensor into the down pipe where the 2 pipes become 1 the idea being that it will be more accurate reading from all 4 cylinders

[rids]

i mounted o2 sensor after all 4 pipes join roughly just under sump level and it ran crap! if i rest o2 sensor between header pipes as they leave the cylinder head, the car runs sweet! i,m toying with mounting it into 1 of the header pipes about 12 inches from the head.

Edited by rids, 11 July 2011 - 04:05 PM.

[l_jonez]

i mounted o2 sensor after all 4 pipes join roughly just under sump level and it ran crap! if i rest o2 sensor between header pipes as they leave the cylinder head, the car runs sweet! i,m toying with mounting it into 1 of the header pipes about 12 inches from the head.

Hmm that's interesting

The o2 senser is the heated type so proximity to the head (heat) should not matter, looks like I will have to have a play around

[rids]

mines heated too! i cant understand how the car runs rough with it in the exhaust (you can see its position on photo) and runs how i,d expect it to with the lambda resting loose in the engine bay. If i disconnect it all together it runs rough again so I assume the lambda sensor is working!

Edited by rids, 11 July 2011 - 06:30 PM.

[l_jonez]

That's strange I can't see why it should not work mine is on the rear of the sump so even further away from the head.

If the sensor is in open air then the ecu will be seeing a lot of oxygen and trying lean the mix out to get the right air/fuel ratio.


Your boss looks rather long, is it possible that not enough of the sensor is actually in the gas flow? not wanting to sound rude, but have put +12v to the heated element in the o2 sensor

[rids]

ive since shortened the boss to get all of the sensor into the gas flow with no change, i havn't tried putting 12 volts direct to the sensor i will next chance i get.the three colours i have going to the sensor are pink,white and black/red should i be seeing 12volts from the battery on any of those? ive just had a quick check and the sensor isnt getting warm when i switch the ignition on i agree where it is at the minute will be weakening things out, when it is in the pipe it runs fine cold but when engines warm it starts to run like it's on choke pointing to it running too rich. I hate electrics!.........ive just had a play and you are right about the 12volts, for some reason i wasn't getting any to power the heater, ive tried it back in the pipe with a direct 12v to heater and after a quick run it seems to be working fine, the only niggle now is if i switch off and leave it a few minutes before restart ive got to let it idle for a minute or so before it'll rev cleanly

Edited by rids, 11 July 2011 - 09:04 PM.

[l_jonez]

Can't remember the colours off the top of my head but in pretty sure the heater supply on mine is a greeny colour

Actually just found it a pic from ians build

[l_jonez]

Forgot to post the pics to show the micra throttle body mounted to the Toyota manifold

I've spun around the throttle spindle/lever to allow the cable to be mounted to the manifold rather than use the micra bracket.

[bigchief3679]

Forgot to post the pics to show the micra throttle body mounted to the Toyota manifold

I've spun around the throttle spindle/lever to allow the cable to be mounted to the manifold rather than use the micra bracket.

NICE.......
you should see an improvement in low end torque for sure!