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Vtec Race Spec - New Owner


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#16 rustandoil

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Posted 05 October 2011 - 03:55 PM

And it's a mess signed Z-Cars (it's a factory built car).


A factory built car :o :o :o

#17 andream88

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Posted 05 October 2011 - 03:57 PM

Yes, indeed.

It is a factory built car.
I think the first owner paid around 40k € for it....

#18 ZCars Steve

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 01:27 PM

Thanks mate.

You should see the wiring under the hood.
Headlamps wires are not covered by any sort of protection, it's a real mess. And it's a mess signed Z-Cars (it's a factory built car).

I've decided to use it for the time being, it will be stripped down and rebuilt during the winter to a much higher standard..


I can assure you that didn't leave here in that state some one has taken it upon them selves to alter that wiring
our looms are all braided and insulated this has been opened up for some reason

#19 andream88

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Posted 07 October 2011 - 01:17 PM

Strange as the owner assured me he didn't touch the car after he got it.
He may have told me lots of ******* though.

Could you please provide me via email a full spec list of my car, maybe you still have the original invoice?

Cheers
Andrea

#20 andream88

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Posted 08 October 2011 - 10:57 PM

The MINI is so funny to drive i've started to use it daily now that the temperatures have gone down a bit.

However with the windows fully closed the exhaust gases contamination inside the car is terrible.
Another thing on the "to do" list.........

Also, the brake lights are not working....and it seems i have a dodgy water temp sensor....

#21 cptkirk

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 12:24 PM


However with the windows fully closed the exhaust gases contamination inside the car is terrible.
Another thing on the "to do" list.........



Yes I get that in mine also, it is because the fittings for the exhaust are not gas tight, only springs holding one piece inside another. I am currently taking my car apart ready to drop the engine and gearbox out and whilst doing this I am going to look into a fix for the exhaust as it is not good to say the least. Yes you can run around with a window down and that reduces it but your clothes still stink of exhaust fumes when you get out the car.

I undersand that the use of springs allows for movement in the exhaust when the engine moves under load however the joints should be gas tight and there should be movement elsewhere in the system to allow for the movement of the engine like one of these:

Posted Image

I am thinking of putting in two of these where the pipes go to two sections and then get some stainless flanges laser cut and welded onto the exhaust pieces to create gas tight joints.

I discovered the other day (Saturday) that of the four springs that held the exhaust together where it goes from 4 to 2 only one remains as the loops welded to the exhaust had failed and all that was left was a blob of weld on the tube.

This is just another thing to add to my list of things to do over the winter. If it works out OK maybe you can copy what I did.....

Edited by cptkirk, 10 October 2011 - 12:26 PM.


#22 andream88

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 01:59 PM

Would be great Andy.

We could maybe split the costs of the CNC cutting, by making a set of flanges for my car at the same time?

I'm going to strip the car down during the winter as well, and this is something which needs to be sorted.
However, i'm also thinking about getting the engine bay 100% isolated from the cabin (which is not at the moment). This should help further eliminating this issue (and the other main one: the heat).

we'll keep in touch

;)

#23 andream88

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 02:02 PM

by the way, any hints about the engine removal?

#24 cptkirk

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 03:32 PM

Re engine removal - ask nearer the time as its not a quick one and I can take some notes this time....One good thing is that it drops straight onto a flat surface so not all bad..

#25 andream88

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 03:37 PM

Do you drop it down in your garage or on a lift?

I'm not a newbie as i've removed, rebuilt and reinstalled the engine of my Audi RS4 B5 last year....but you know, following the suggestions of who has already been there in the past always helps.

Cheers man,
Andrea

#26 andream88

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 06:20 PM

Ehi Andy,

this is another thing i plan to do over the winter (the list is growing day by day..):

http://www.5thscaler...58&d=1232677990

#27 cptkirk

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 07:14 AM

Re: the Engine removal, I used a two poster ramp at a friends garage, support the engine with a brace across the two rear windows, remove engine mounts and then drop it onto a pallet. Thats the very simplified version.

I remove the rear suspension arms when I am doing it - make note of what washers go where next to the rose joints on the rear suspension arms.

This time round I am going to get spacers made to replace the washers as I am happy with the suspension setup, this should make the rebuild much easier.

#28 andream88

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 09:38 PM

Steve, i've sent you a PM and an email to Chris a few weeks ago but still no reply to date.

Any chance you could find 5 minutes to reply?

I'd like to receive a full spec list of my car (purchase invoice would be good as well, as the last owner doesn't find it), and a quote for a full set of tyres (AVON are not replying my emails as well).

Cheers!

#29 andream88

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Posted 31 May 2012 - 08:41 AM

Well guys, heres a bit of an update.
Not what you would like to hear, but hey ho **** happens.

I'll let the pictures do the talking, and will only briefly describe what happened.
Lost control of the car and hit a tree in 2nd gear at approx 50km/h.
I ended up with both feet broken (the right one badly).
Think you can guess where i was sat.


Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

After a few months of wheelchair, i've finally started to walk ad drive again.
My feet will never be like they were before, but it's a price i have to pay.

Posted Image

Posted Image

By the way, i have decided to rebuild the car.
I will start to dismantle it in a month or so.
I have already bought another chassis and will be replacing mine with it.
I will need a brand new front subframe and will see if the main frame can be repaired or not.
Will also need a new central tunnel, a new carbon dash, most likely a new wilwood pedalbox, a new steering wheel, a new radiator etc.
Will keep the OEM metal body at the front this time (the crashed car had a fiberglass front), which would have surely helped in the impact.

That said, i hope you guys will never crash your Zcars MINIs...as they're not safe cars imo.
The front subframe structure is too fragile, and on a frontal impact against a stand still object like the one which happened to me, it crushes completely and comes into the car bending the floor reinforcement structure (and possibly breaking your feet/legs).
Not sure if the design can be improved further to solve this problem (i'd prefer a non-absorbing but strong structure like the SMART cars, as the MINI is too short anyway to aborb any force caused by the crash). Will have to talk to Chris about this.

Will update this thread soon...

;)

Edited by andream88, 31 May 2012 - 08:55 AM.


#30 CobraV8

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Posted 31 May 2012 - 09:10 AM

Ouch. Hope your mending goes well. Never nice to see someone tied up in an accident like this. I guess it shows the strength of a mini subframe and motor up front.




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