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Alex's 1982 Hle Rebuild


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#706 alex-95

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Posted 10 March 2019 - 08:28 PM

Another boring update.

So since the passengers side didn't fit I bored it out a tad more hoping that a bit more clearance would sort the problem, it would not :mmkay:I ordered one from DSN and when that arrived it was oversize and had and 0.02mm (pretty much a thou) taper, so that's going back. This meant that it could be the G/Box casing not aligned properly somehow, the diff cover being twisted/bent or the pot joints a HOS.  I tried an original pot joint in a diff cover I bored to suit and that slid on fine so that ruled out the G/Box casing.  I decided to bore out another diff cover that worked with the original pot joint to make sure it's not the diff cover at fault and it still binds up half way in. I have a few spare bored covers to suit an old 1.25" pot joint and it slides in fine. I then tried it on the 998 gearbox to double check it wasn't the cover or diff and it gave me the same problem.So to me it seems that the pot joint is at fault here. I decided to ring around a few companies to see if they had any good ones, One didn't know the difference between length and diameter, another said that there's were 32mm etc. So I rung Minispares, they said there can't be the wrong size as they have never had an issue with them before, They didn't seem to worry about the 2 different sizes and they didn't have any on hand that they could try in one of there diff covers they sell. It seems like they are manufactured oversize now due to people not boring out the diff bushes, so in another five years they'll be another 0.05mm bigger to suit the even more worn diff bushes :lol:. I'm going to a local motor factors tomorrow to measure the ones they sell but not holding my breath, then after then going to take a pot joint to a mate to get it cylindrically ground.

 

Fits off the splines

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As far as it goes in with the splines.

 

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I fitted my new drums that I ended up painting body colour, and also spiffy bits stainless radius arm nuts.

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I also got the interior bits like the heater, switch panel and dash lining back in.

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Sitting pretty 

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#707 alex-95

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Posted 17 March 2019 - 07:31 PM

Went to the local auto factors and measured a Shafttec pot joint, It was oversize and had a slight taper near the inside but was the same size as the minispares one, fitted in the diff cover and also fitted when all assembled. I also got a mate to grind the minispares one down to the correct size to see if I could save swapping the pot joint, I got it back and it still didn't fit when it was all assembled, I can only assume that the splines aren't parallel to the shaft >_<. So Friday I replaced the pot joint and refitted the driveshaft and hub assembly to the car which meant the brakes could be bled.

 

Saturday morning I ended up with this. :w00t:

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and today finished with this, exhaust, carb, slave cylinder, starter motor, new DSN water pump pulley :wub:  etc.

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Hopefully It'll be running next weekend 



#708 alex-95

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Posted 24 March 2019 - 08:02 PM

Spot the difference

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So I wasn't happy with the hose that came with the DSN oil filter, even with the black braid I put on it so got myself some AN fittings all in black and made my own.

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Then fitted other bits to the engine, For some reason the alternator wouldn't line up with the bracket, from what I could tell and trying not to waste too much time (still did though :lol:) the engine didn't have any yowls in it for the water pump so that could have been in the wrong position and also the water pump didn't look parallel and was pulling the alternator down and in, so drilled the hole out a bit and filed it as parallel as we could without taking it off and machining it. 

 

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With the alternator fitted I retested the brakes that Dad and I bled the night before, it was a bit spongy, on inspection the front passengers flexi was leaking at the calliper :mmkay: Removed the calliper, cleaned, new washer, refitted, re-bled and this morning it was still had a little drip coming out >_<. I've nipped it up a bit more so hopefully that will sort it.

 

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Made a new fuel overflow pipe that goes down the back of the engine and mounts on one of the 3 tapped holes on the flywheel cover, makes the engine bay a bit tidier rather than going over the front  and down the Wok.

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And it pretty much all together now, It would have been nice to get it running and driving this weekend especially since the weather was so good, but will try and get it running during the week and then drive it at the weekend.

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#709 Jared Mk3

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Posted 25 March 2019 - 04:35 PM

That engine bay does look good - nice!  =]



#710 alex-95

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Posted 25 March 2019 - 09:29 PM

That engine bay does look good - nice!  =]

Thanks mate 



#711 alex-95

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Posted 31 March 2019 - 07:36 PM

After finishing off most of the engine bay bits and priming the oil pump I managed to get the engine started theres a couple of videos on my last 2 instagram posts ---> https://www.instagram.com/atilley_/. Everything seems to be ok. This morning we checked the timing, I put a mark on the block and dizzy so knew roughly where it should be and was only 1 degree out. I then took it for a short drive to check the gears and they all selected with no crunching :gimme:.

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Along with other jobs like changing the headlights We finished off version 2 of the distributor shield. A bit of aluminium, the holes are cut to suit the van grille, 2 screws with Riv nuts on the front panel and 2 parts cut out and bent so that it holds itself over the front panel lip.

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#712 alex-95

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 09:44 PM

:thumbsup:

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