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#16 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 06:46 PM

As Cooperman said, its a good idea to tape the splines...
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Ok so I took way to many pics of the engine in Haggis...but I like to share.

#17 firefox

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 06:49 PM

As Cooperman said, its a good idea to tape the splines...
Posted Image

Ok so I took way to many pics of the engine in Haggis...but I like to share.

Nice one bud locked in my memory now, you have anymore usefull tips

#18 mk=john

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 07:14 PM

Save yourself a whole load of hassle...just remove the power unit complete with gearbox. Its a bit of jeckyl and hyde on a mini: Engine and gearbox a dream to work on outside a mini, but usually a real ******* with it in the car!!

You could have the engine whipped out in a day quite easily........On my Mk1 mini, I started removal procedures at 8am, and the power unit was on blocks of wood on the floor by 1pm.

Edited by mk=john, 22 October 2011 - 07:14 PM.


#19 firefox

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 07:21 PM

Save yourself a whole load of hassle...just remove the power unit complete with gearbox. Its a bit of jeckyl and hyde on a mini: Engine and gearbox a dream to work on outside a mini, but usually a real ******* with it in the car!!

You could have the engine whipped out in a day quite easily........On my Mk1 mini, I started removal procedures at 8am, and the power unit was on blocks of wood on the floor by 1pm.

I have most of the parts off bud and the exhaust only took a couple of hours, under the car tomorrow so should see it ready to lift, its stripping the bloody engine down i am worried about

#20 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 07:27 PM

No need to worry about stripping the engine down...Thats the sexy bit...getting it out is the worst bit..

#21 firefox

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 07:37 PM

No need to worry about stripping the engine down...Thats the sexy bit...getting it out is the worst bit..

You havent seen my garage floor have to have a tidy up or i will loose some of the bits, not very good at indexing but think i am going to have to get sorted, now where did i put that spanner, you know when you look for something spanner pliers mole grips and you cant find it, have a cup of tea and where is it, :shades: right were you were standing

#22 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 07:57 PM

I know what you mean!!
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#23 Cooperman

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 08:03 PM

When you strip it down, get lots of little plastic bags and put the nuts and bolts and small bits in, then label them and store them in a box or a drawer.
Do you need a strip-down sequence?

#24 firefox

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 09:13 PM

When you strip it down, get lots of little plastic bags and put the nuts and bolts and small bits in, then label them and store them in a box or a drawer.
Do you need a strip-down sequence?

Yes for the engine if you dont mind bud, and i think the wife has just lost her freezer bags ha ha ha nice little wire ties as well and a write on panel :angel:

#25 Cooperman

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 11:04 PM

There are several possible ways to strip the engine.
The sequence I normally use is more or less as follows:

Drain the oil before lifting the engine.

Remove the engine complete with radiator, starter motor and alternator still fitted, but with carb(s) and inlet/ex. manifolds removed.
With the complete unit on the bench remove the radiator with the engine still suspended by undoing the bottom hose and catching the coolant in a plastic tub, then undoing the top hose, rad top mount and rad bottom bolt.
Take off the starter motor
Take off the alternator and fan belt
Remove fan and water pump
Remove the head and take out the push rods.
Take out the distributor
Take out the dip-stick
Lock the flywheel, ideally with a proper flywheel locking tool, and undo the front pulley nut and lock washer. Pull the front pulley from the front of the crankshaft
Undo the 8 off 5/16" UNC bolts around the clutch cover and remove it.
With the flywheel still locked knock back the lock tab and take out the flywheel retaining bolt and lock plate.
Use the flywheel puller to remove flywheel and clutch assembly ensuring that the pistons are mid-way between TDC & BDC when doing this to ensure the C-washer doesn't fall behind the flywheel and jam it.
Take the timing cover off and undo the cam lock tab and the thin-nut on the end of the camshaft. Remove the timing gears.
Take the engine front plate off
Undo all nuts and bolts holding the transfer case onto the block and gearbox. Remove this cover. Don't worry about damaging the primary gear seal - this is to be replaced.
Remove the C-washer and thrust pad holding the primary gear in place and slide the primary gear from the crankshaft. Keep the inner thrust bearing safe.
Now undo all the bolts joining the gearbox to the engine block and lift the block clear of the gearbox.
Move the gearbox out of the way and turn the engine over to expose the big-ends and main bearing caps.
Undo and remove each big end cap in turn, push the piston out of the top of the block, put the cap back on the rod and store in a safe place. Note: the big end caps MUST NOT be mixed up as each rod and cap is a matched unit.
Undo the two bolts holding each main bearing cap in place. Remove these caps and lift the crankshaft from the block. Put the main bearing caps back in position with the bolts lightly replaced. The centre main has thrust bearings each side, so remove these. They will be replaced with new ones at re-assembly
Undo the long 1/4" UNF bolts holding the oil pump in place and remove it.
Remove the distributor drive shaft.
Withdraw the camshaft carefully from the front end of the block (the water pump end).
Using a long thin screwdriver or a push-rod, push the cam followers into the block and remove them

Your engine is now completely stripped and is ready for careful inspection.

#26 firefox

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 07:51 AM

There are several possible ways to strip the engine.
The sequence I normally use is more or less as follows:

Drain the oil before lifting the engine.

Remove the engine complete with radiator, starter motor and alternator still fitted, but with carb(s) and inlet/ex. manifolds removed.
With the complete unit on the bench remove the radiator with the engine still suspended by undoing the bottom hose and catching the coolant in a plastic tub, then undoing the top hose, rad top mount and rad bottom bolt.
Take off the starter motor
Take off the alternator and fan belt
Remove fan and water pump
Remove the head and take out the push rods.
Take out the distributor
Take out the dip-stick
Lock the flywheel, ideally with a proper flywheel locking tool, and undo the front pulley nut and lock washer. Pull the front pulley from the front of the crankshaft
Undo the 8 off 5/16" UNC bolts around the clutch cover and remove it.
With the flywheel still locked knock back the lock tab and take out the flywheel retaining bolt and lock plate.
Use the flywheel puller to remove flywheel and clutch assembly ensuring that the pistons are mid-way between TDC & BDC when doing this to ensure the C-washer doesn't fall behind the flywheel and jam it.
Take the timing cover off and undo the cam lock tab and the thin-nut on the end of the camshaft. Remove the timing gears.
Take the engine front plate off
Undo all nuts and bolts holding the transfer case onto the block and gearbox. Remove this cover. Don't worry about damaging the primary gear seal - this is to be replaced.
Remove the C-washer and thrust pad holding the primary gear in place and slide the primary gear from the crankshaft. Keep the inner thrust bearing safe.
Now undo all the bolts joining the gearbox to the engine block and lift the block clear of the gearbox.
Move the gearbox out of the way and turn the engine over to expose the big-ends and main bearing caps.
Undo and remove each big end cap in turn, push the piston out of the top of the block, put the cap back on the rod and store in a safe place. Note: the big end caps MUST NOT be mixed up as each rod and cap is a matched unit.
Undo the two bolts holding each main bearing cap in place. Remove these caps and lift the crankshaft from the block. Put the main bearing caps back in position with the bolts lightly replaced. The centre main has thrust bearings each side, so remove these. They will be replaced with new ones at re-assembly
Undo the long 1/4" UNF bolts holding the oil pump in place and remove it.
Remove the distributor drive shaft.
Withdraw the camshaft carefully from the front end of the block (the water pump end).
Using a long thin screwdriver or a push-rod, push the cam followers into the block and remove them

Your engine is now completely stripped and is ready for careful inspection.

Thank you so much for that bud far better and more simple than the haynes manual, you should write a book called the idiots guide to engine rebuild , i feel a lot more confident now :highfive:

#27 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 09:09 AM

Thats a brilliant guide Cooperman...Maybe the mods could make it a sticky so others will have the benefit..One thing though...you will also need to remove the petrol pump from the back of the block...Its driven off the cam and you wont be able to remove the cam with it fitted...

#28 Cooperman

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 11:34 AM

Thats a brilliant guide Cooperman...Maybe the mods could make it a sticky so others will have the benefit..One thing though...you will also need to remove the petrol pump from the back of the block...Its driven off the cam and you wont be able to remove the cam with it fitted...


Ah ha, I missed that. Well spotted. i'll go back and edit the post so that if someone wants to add it as a 'sticky' it'll be more or less OK.

Oh, it won't allow me to go back and add that.

Edited by Cooperman, 23 October 2011 - 11:35 AM.


#29 firefox

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 07:26 PM

Ha ha ha sussed that one, just one thing cant get the primary gear to slide off i have removed the c washer and the big washer the c washer fits to, can i lever it oft or is there a nack


Got it red plastic washer and the gear come off with the seal big in it, hope the freezer bag hold up i will double wrap it going to watch spooks now and calling it a day updae later tell you how i have got on should get the block to the enginners tomorrow whoop whoop

Edited by firefox, 23 October 2011 - 07:39 PM.


#30 firefox

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 10:12 PM

How do i check the big ends and little ends for play wil they move from side to side or up and down or should i get the crank reground as as matter of course, and do i need a new timing chain, the tensioner has grooves in it is this normal, i will need a new red crankshaft oil seal clutch end, cam oil seals? , timing end oil seal ? ohh and i snapped a bolt on the water pump the one that protrudes into the waterway, i might get the auto shop to drill it out, engine gasket set, should i fit a new water pump, there is no play in it, or should i just clen it up,will i need new cam followers, is there any bearings needed, and do i need any sealant




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