Spraying Wheel Arches
#1
Posted 07 February 2006 - 11:30 PM
And would like to pray them my self using cans.
Ill be spaying them black as i dont know what cope my red is ect.
Can someone please tell me step by step on how i do this, what spay,how do i get the shine ect ect
Plus whats the best black too get..
Be very great ful if someone could help me outl please
#2
Posted 08 February 2006 - 03:02 PM
You will need
Few cans of 500ml primer, black, and lacquer
800 grit and 1200 grit wet and dry
A few scotch pads
T-Cut and a few cotton rags for polishing
Good quality Polish
Rub down areas that are to be painted with scotch pads to give a sound key for the primer; this also makes sure there is no grease on the part that would stop the paint from sticking
Spray a light coat of primmer. Leave to dry for 15 min before applying another light coat. Then repeat this process until you have four to five coats.
It important that you leave the primer to fully dry for at least 24 hours
Using 800 grit wet and dry and hot soapy water, sooth off the surface
The soapy water acts as a lubricant and stops the wet and dry scratching the surface
Like you did with the primer, apply it in smooth even coats. Keep you movement’s fluid and using a side-to-side sweeping motion with the can. Leave to dry for 15 min then apply 3 of 4 more coats of paint in the same way.
Leave to fully dry for at least 24 hours
Rub down with 1200 grit wet and dry (same as before) until perfectly smooth. Then wash off any debris and soap residue. This wills flatten out any imperfections on the painted surface, which is nice.
Then apply a light coat of lacquer. Again light even coats. Leave to dry for 15mini between coats. Apply 3 or 4 coats until a deep glossy finish is achieved.
Leave to fully dry for at least 24 hours
Now doing the same as you did to the paint rub down with 1200 grit wet and dry (same as before) until perfectly smooth. Then wash off any debris and soap residue.
With all the minor imperfections flatted out of the lacquer it should look cloudy but smooth. Grab a bottle of T-Cut and smooth cotton rag, and then get polishing. The T-Cut is like a cutting polish and will bring the lacquer up to a really glossy shine.
Now just finish of with a decent polish to help protect all you hard work and that’s job done
#3
Posted 08 February 2006 - 05:11 PM
#4
Posted 08 February 2006 - 06:17 PM
as well as the above, use a hairdryer to improve results
Do it in a warm well-ventilated area or if it’s nice do it out side in the sun B)
don't try and speed up the drying time of the paint it won't work as well
#5
Posted 08 February 2006 - 07:30 PM
#6
Posted 08 February 2006 - 10:02 PM
Thanks for that 1984mini25Halfords spray paint works well
You will need
Few cans of 500ml primmer, black, and lacquer
800 grit and 1200 grit wet and dry
A few scotch pads
T-Cut and a few cotton rags for polishing
Good quality Polish
Rub down areas that are to be painted with scotch pads to give a sound key for the primer; this also makes sure there is no grease on the part that would stop the paint from sticking
Spray a light coat of primmer. Leave to dry for 15 min before applying another light coat. Then repeat this process until you have four to five coats.
It important that you leave the primer to fully dry for at least 24 hours
Using 800 grit wet and dry and hot soapy water, sooth off the surface
The soapy water acts as a lubricant and stops the wet and dry scratching the surface
Like you did with the primer, apply it in smooth even coats. Keep you movement’s fluid and using a side-to-side sweeping motion with the can. Leave to dry for 15 min then apply 3 of 4 more coats of paint in the same way.
Leave to fully dry for at least 24 hours
Rub down with 1200 grit wet and dry (same as before) until perfectly smooth. Then wash off any debris and soap residue. This wills flatten out any imperfections on the painted surface, which is nice.
Then apply a light coat of lacquer. Again light even coats. Leave to dry for 15mini between coats. Apply 3 or 4 coats until a deep glossy finish is achieved.
Leave to fully dry for at least 24 hours
Now doing the same as you did to the paint rub down with 1200 grit wet and dry (same as before) until perfectly smooth. Then wash off any debris and soap residue.
With all the minor imperfections flatted out of the lacquer it should look cloudy but smooth. Grab a bottle of T-Cut and smooth cotton rag, and then get polishing. The T-Cut is like a cutting polish and will bring the lacquer up to a really glossy shine.
Now just finish of with a decent polish to help protect all you hard work and that’s job done
What sort of spray shall i get..
#7
Posted 08 February 2006 - 10:03 PM
#8
Posted 08 February 2006 - 10:05 PM
#9
Posted 09 February 2006 - 06:16 PM
Thanks for that 1984mini25
What sort of spray shall i get..
No probs,
Halfords spray paint, Think it's on a 3 for the price of 2 at mo
Can also get the rest of what you need there to
#10
Posted 10 February 2006 - 12:23 PM
Thanks
One more thing..
Ill have to fill the indents on the sport packs arches wont i..?
Is so, is it easy job ..thanks
#11
Posted 10 February 2006 - 06:26 PM
Ill have to fill the indents on the sport packs arches wont i..?
Is so, is it easy job
Easy enough should get away with some filler before you start to prime and paint them
I will come up with a step-by-step guide very soon
#12
Posted 10 February 2006 - 11:46 PM
#13
Posted 11 February 2006 - 02:51 PM
Oh cool. let us know when u have..
Finished
You will need:
Scotch brite pad
P38 body filler
80, 240, and 400 grit wet and dry
Scuff the areas needing filler with a scotch brite pad
Mix up some P38 body filler – to get the proportions of filler to hardener right,
For every golf ball size of filler you will need a pea-size dollop of hardener.
Mix up the two well so it’s an even colouring and no streaks.
Using a filler applicator, smooth the filler onto areas needed using smooth strokes, try not to push to hard or you will make your life harder later on.
Allow the filler to fully harden
Using 80 grit wet and dry (used dry) and sanding block smooth the filer to shape and then work down to 240 grit and finally 400 grit to get a smooth finish.
After you’ve sanded it down, you’ll notice some holes, cracks and low spots that need a final smooth over with some more filler.
Allow the filler to fully harden
Repeat your sanding as before and you should get the filler super smooth.
Ready for prime and painting.
#14
Posted 11 February 2006 - 02:58 PM
Thankyou .
#15
Posted 11 February 2006 - 03:33 PM
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