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Bulkhead Sealing?


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#1 GregMcN2

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Posted 15 December 2011 - 08:28 PM

Really I am a long way off fitting a bulkhead or engine cover but I do need to install some inner side panels to mount things on. What has me puzzled is how you would seal against the vertical side of the car and also if you chose a vertical design it would have to seal against the windows?

Greg

#2 Alburglar

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Posted 16 December 2011 - 12:35 AM

I am going to use a rubber seal where the bulkhead meets the window. Like a normal car door / boot seal.

#3 Mini Type R

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Posted 21 December 2011 - 09:50 PM

I didn't fancy making a panel with the same profile as the rear quarter so sealed and riveted a panel to the sides of the car, attached to the inner sill, door frame and bottom of the window frame going back as far as the frame. This then gave me a flat surface to fit the sides of the front panel to.

#4 edsmini

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Posted 22 December 2011 - 02:21 PM

Make sure that the middle and rear pillars are sealed, they can cause exhaust fumes to blow back into the car. It can also cause the headlining to blow up like an airbag (thats if you have got a headlining).

Ed

#5 GregMcN2

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 09:03 AM

Does anyone have any pictures as I am struggling to visualise?
I am also worrying about access to the engine - easy now with no windows but any removable panels will have to come out over high backed seats and through the doors which might not be easy.

Greg

#6 cptkirk

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 02:22 PM

Greg

In my experience you will need to remove the seats to get access to the bolts that hold the firewall together, so maybe think about a quick release yet secure way to fix your seats.

Sorry I cant help much with the vertical firewall as I went with a parcel shelf but good luck with it.

#7 Mini Type R

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 10:14 PM

I went for a parcel shelf style with the top panel being secured with dzus fasteners. Access isn't that easy but i can lift it to check oil levels and it can be removed over the top of the seats, more luck the judgement, and by kneeling on the seats you can do most things. I also have a removeable panel on the front that i need to remove the drivers seat to access, all other panels are bonded to the shell. I'll see if i can find some photos when i'm on my other computer.

#8 cptkirk

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 12:27 PM

I am also worrying about access to the engine - easy now with no windows but any removable panels will have to come out over high backed seats and through the doors which might not be easy.

Greg


Suggestion: make your windows easy to remove, mine are Lexan and bolted in using security bolts, I can gain access to my engine from the rear window and remove the parcel shelf in about 2mins and it takes me 2mins to put it all back together again, no working over seats or sliding bulkheads through very tight spaces and the majority of engine servicing can be done from that position. I also have the quarter lights bolted in and they are even quicker to remove to gain even more access to the engine bay. If I need full access to the front of the engine then yes I have to take the seats out but they are only 6 bolts each and their out, front bulkhead off and then I have unrestricted access to the engine. I didnt go with Lexan for weight saving it was purely for ease of access to engine bay, which is what it appears is your concern also. The first page of my build has pictures showing the lugs I had welded around the window apetures, they are simply a lug with an M6 thread in them, nothing more fancy than that, although if you've done your paint already you probably wont want to be welding to your bodyshell.

I am not saying its the only way its more food for thought......

#9 Alburglar

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 04:33 AM

I went for a full 'straight up' bulkhead (with a perspex window in it for rear view) as I intend to make the rear of the shell removeable at some point. But for the time being I have bolt in side and rear perspex windows. I just used anchor nuts riveted behind the window frame. Pics are on my build thread too.

#10 GregMcN2

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 09:17 PM

Thanks everyone I'm leaning towards the up and over option rather than the vertical but will have to think about window removal options as the inside of the car had already been painted when I aquired the project.

Greg

#11 cptkirk

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 08:32 AM

Greg,

It sounds like Alburglars way of fixing might be the best option for yourself, if you use rivnuts make sure to paint the hole before fixing the rivnut.

WE look forward to seeing how you end up doing it, as I am sure other future Zcar builders would like to also.

Andy

#12 GregMcN2

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 09:56 PM

Andy

Not that I will be fitting windows for a long time yet but I wondered whether you had any type of gasket with the lexan windows or just bolt to the lugs with lexan directly contacting the metal - I had a look at your pictures but was not sure.

Thanks Greg

#13 Alburglar

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 11:59 PM

I will have an adhesive Back foam strip around the window apertures, to stop any wind noise


#14 cptkirk

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Posted 10 January 2012 - 08:23 AM

Same as Al ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^




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