3 replies to this topic

[oliver122]

what it is really , is over the past couple of months my engine seems to be getting tired (its got about 102k miles on the clock) i noticed this on the way bingley other 1L's seemed pull away quicker and pick up quicker in the convoy . pulling out of college today my clutch started to slip aswell! oh and when i start it up there is a knocking sound until oil pressure is up bout 3 sec's

i was wondering how long it would take to rebuild an engine, i have an engine round the back that needs a full strip down and rebuild by the looks of it , does turn over by hand but i think that 3 sets of rings have gone as they leek oil past i was going to use it for a turbo conversion ,( on the back burners while i source parts )

my car is a daily drive so really i carnt take my current running engine out the car

any advice or info would be appreciated

also , i seen a list of instruction in the order to pull an engine apart , if someone had the link i would be grateful

[2-alex-2]

all depends on weathe you want ot keep the original engien int he car or not as yu could buy a second hand runner and stick it in whiles you do a full rebuild on the original then put it back once you done or depending on the secodn engien you have you could jsut do that one up but do it right and take you time thats all

[oliver122]

well i intend on doing a turbo build but i could get the engine half way ready to the turbo engine all i would have to do then is drop a different head on to get the comp ratio and everything else is just bolt on simple stuff really to change to a turbo

i found the guide cooperman wrote out :

Remove the engine complete with radiator, starter motor and alternator still fitted, but with carb(s) and inlet/ex. manifolds removed.
With the complete unit on the bench remove the radiator with the engine still suspended by undoing the bottom hose and catching the coolant in a plastic tub, then undoing the top hose, rad top mount and rad bottom bolt.
Take off the starter motor
Take off the alternator and fan belt
Remove fan and water pump
Remove the head and take out the push rods.
Take out the distributor
Take out the dip-stick
Lock the flywheel, ideally with a proper flywheel locking tool, and undo the front pulley nut and lock washer. Pull the front pulley from the front of the crankshaft
Undo the 8 off 5/16" UNC bolts around the clutch cover and remove it.
With the flywheel still locked knock back the lock tab and take out the flywheel retaining bolt and lock plate.
Use the flywheel puller to remove flywheel and clutch assembly ensuring that the pistons are mid-way between TDC & BDC when doing this to ensure the C-washer doesn't fall behind the flywheel and jam it.
Take the timing cover off and undo the cam lock tab and the thin-nut on the end of the camshaft. Remove the timing gears.
Take the engine front plate off
Undo all nuts and bolts holding the transfer case onto the block and gearbox. Remove this cover. Don't worry about damaging the primary gear seal - this is to be replaced.
Remove the C-washer and thrust pad holding the primary gear in place and slide the primary gear from the crankshaft. Keep the inner thrust bearing safe.
Now undo all the bolts joining the gearbox to the engine block and lift the block clear of the gearbox.
Move the gearbox out of the way and turn the engine over to expose the big-ends and main bearing caps

goinge get my shed in some sort of order and crash in on it

[ANON]

you'll find the bits that take the longest are waiting for work to be done, crank grind, re bore etc.
the stripping and re building itself doesn't take that long.