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Engine Not Turning Over ?


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#1 tjllanrug

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 09:30 PM

hI WONDERING IF YOU COULD HELP ME
I GOT MY CAR RUNNING EARLIER THEN HAD A FUEL LEAK SWITCHED IT OFF
FIXED THE LEAK THEN TRYED STARTING IT AGAIN, BUT NO,
STARTER SEEMS TO TURN SOMETHIGN BUT ENGINE DOES NOT TURN OVER ATALL SEEMS TO BE STIff
PLUGS OUT IT TURNS OVER BUT NOT AS FAST ??

Edited by tjllanrug, 08 February 2012 - 09:32 PM.


#2 Andrewo330

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 09:32 PM

What mini do you have ?

#3 dklawson

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 09:36 PM

Caps off please. Caps on is like YELLING.

If the engine turns over slowly with the plugs out you could have several possible problems. The starter motor brushes could be worn. The earth connection for the engine could be compromised. Or... the battery could be very, very weak.

Your post implies that the engine started properly before you stopped to service the fuel leak. Where was the leak? If it was in the engine bay, you could have bumped or disturbed a component that is affecting power flow to the starter. If it was in the boot and you worked around the fuel tank(s) you may have disturbed or damaged the earth cable connection to the battery.

#4 tjllanrug

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 09:53 PM

mini mayfiar but metro 1275 engine
sorry, doug, starter is off looks ok, how do i test it or find out, all earth are new and clean , and fuel leaked from pump on the floor no cables etc, was touched

#5 dklawson

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Posted 09 February 2012 - 01:29 PM

View Posttjllanrug, on 08 February 2012 - 09:53 PM, said:

sorry, doug, starter is off looks ok, how do i test it or find out, all earth are new and clean , and fuel leaked from pump on the floor no cables etc, was touched

The mechanical fuel pump is located on the engine block. A factory electric pump (carb cars) is on the rear subframe. Do you mean your pump leaked onto the garage floor... or has a previous owner put an electric fuel pump in the boot and it leaked on the boot floor?

Start with the simple things. Charge the battery. While the battery is charging, clean the terminals on the cables in the boot. The earth cable will be bolted to the boot floor. Undo that cable, clean its end and clean where the cable bolts to the boot floor. Then apply a thin film of dielectric grease or Vaseline to the cleaned parts and bolt them back in place. Turn your attention to the front of the car. The power cable from the battery will typically go to the starter solenoid. (For safety disconnect the earth cable in the boot). With the earth disconnected, disconnect the power cable up front and clean its cable end like you did in the boot. As before, apply dielectric grease to the cleaned metal then bolt everything back in place. There will also be an earth cable from the car chassis/body to the engine or gearbox. This changed over the years so I cannot tell you where it would be on your car. Find it and as with the other cables, clean both ends and clean where they connect, then apply dielectric grease and bolt them back in place. While cleaning the cables, inspect each one. Replace any that are suspect.

There are inertia and pre-engaged starters. To test an inertia starter is simply a matter of putting the gearbox in neutral and using jumper cables between a known good battery and the motor itself. Connect the (-) jumper lead to your engine block, tap and hold the (+) jumper lead to the "hot" terminal on the starter motor. A shower of sparks may occur. That's normal so don't panic. If the motor is in good shape and the battery fully charged the motor will spin up to speed, throwing the Bendix unit out into engagement with the ring gear, and the engine will turn over. If the motor is weak or the battery undercharged the starter may labor to turn over and does not develop enough speed to throw the Bendix into position.

I haven't worked with pre-engaged starters. They are a little different in that the solenoid is typically piggy-backed onto the top of the motor. On some motors of this type there is a short pigtail cable from the solenoid to the rear of the starter motor. If you have such a cable and can tap the jumper (+) lead to an exposed point on that cable... do so. The motor should spin up as above except the pinion gear will not engage the ring gear since you have not activated the solenoid. If there is no exposed metal on the pigtail cable, you will need to connect your (+) jumper lead to the point where the battery cable connects... then use a light gauge (small) wire to make a temporary connection between the tiny terminal on the solenoid to the battery cable connection point. This will engage the solenoid which in turn will make the motor spin.




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