8 replies to this topic

[LiamBendell]

I just thought i would post about removing the clutch and using the right tools.

I have just removed mine and found there is not many topics which really help to explain it (with images). I am no mechanic, so exsuse me if i don't name everything right. But it was really easy to remove the clutch.

I had the engine out of the car so there is a lot more room to work on it. But if its still in the car you just got to work a bit harder.
So the engine is out and i have started to strip it down.


1. Get the engine somewhere easy to work on, as you need to put bit of force into it later.




2. You need to remove the Clutch housing. To do this first remove the bracket holding the clutch cylinder. The undo and remove all the bolts holding the clutch housing outside to the main housing. (Not the bolts holding it the the block).

So do it evenly so take two or three turns out of one bolt and then take that out the opposite and work your way around. Don't do bolts next to each other. As it under some pressure and will pop of just a little bit half way through undoing, so be careful. This is ok when it pops off but make sure there is some tread left in each bolt until this happens.





3. Then you should be left with it looking like this. Remove the little cap bit on the end of the Crankshaft.






4. Go and get a good clutch pulley tool. This is from Halfords, it worked a treat for me.





5. Then you need to block the clutch from spinning when you use the pulley tool. So i used a large chisel wrapped in loads of duck tape. I used the starter motor housing to hold it in place. However if your engine is in the car you may need to buy a tool to hold the clutch.






DO NOT DO THIS




6. You will get two types of treaded bolts with the tool. Mine is a 1999 cooper so it used the metric tread. Make sure you don't drop the small little stud/plug thing. Like i did. (circled in this photo)



This is what it looks like with out that plug in. It just so happened the main black bolt fits into the end of crankshaft so i assumed this was right to start off with. The bolt should never go into the crankshaft.

The pulley bolts should be tight and up against the pulley plate. NOT LIKE THIS



BUT LIKE THIS
Make sure the plug thing is in the end of the crankshaft and the main black bolt (here) is pushing against this.


Slowly tighten the bolt using a torch wrench, if you get stuck and can't tighten it any more. Walk away go have a cuppa or a pint and come back to it. If its still not coming off, use a soft rubber mallet and give the wrench a hit just to try to shock it a bit.

Once it off you will know. there will be a bang so make sure you have room around you.

If you do putt the main bolt into the crankshaft like it did say good bye to £1,000 for a new crankshaft. Take your time and get it right and learn from my mistake.





I hope this helps a few people out.
Any other questions just ask.

Liam

[lrostoke]

Pretty good guide but a few things seem wrong to me.

Pretty sure the clutch housing cover shouldn't be under any pressure so shouldn't try to spring off so the bolts can come out in any order.
If its under pressure then the clutch spring would be depressed which it shouldnt be untill you press the pedal !!!

Also you mention using a torch wrench to tighten the clutch removal tool, probably not a good idea if you mean torque wrench and wouldn't want to be hitting a torque wrench with a mallet or hammer. Breaker bar would be better.
I'm lucky I've got an air impact gun, never fails release, think its a combination of the quick speed and hammer action shocks it off.

Also I forget which way it is but I seem to recall the crank needs to be in a certain position before trying to remove the flywheel/clutch assy. Its to stop the 2 c washers from slipping and jamming .

From workshop manual


Rotate crankshaft and knock back tabs on
clutch hub lock washer.
5.


Rotate crankshaft until clutch hub slots are
aligned horizontally.
CAUTION: If crankshaft is not positioned
correctly, primary drive ’C’ shaped washer
may become displaced and make it
impossible to remove flywheel.

Edited by lrostoke, 22 February 2012 - 06:37 PM.

[lrostoke]

Actually looking at this picture



You clutch seems to be engaged without any hydraulic pressure behind it :) so either a very worn weak clutch or that arm is seized which would explain why the housing tried to pop off.

Edited by lrostoke, 22 February 2012 - 06:58 PM.

[Dan]

Did your torque wrench click while doing this? If it did and you kept on winding it, or if you dialed it up so tight it wouldn't click, then you need to get it recalibrated or replaced. You mustn't trust it until it's been calibrated or proved. A torque wrench is a precision tool, and one you trust your life to if you are using it to reassemble your hubs or other critical parts. Don't abuse it.

Yes I thought the clutch release arm looked odd too, it would explain the load on the cover if it was seized. It's funny to see one siting in that position while assembled!

[LiamBendell]

I knew i would get a few bits wrong. So thanks very much for adding your comments.

Yeah you need to make sure you have the crank is in the right place before removing clutch, so the washer doesn't fall and stop you removing flywheel. Its in the Haynes Manual so make sure you get it right.

Yeah my clutch was seise with the peddle engage when the engine was removed, as the car was sat and not run for about 8 months. So this may have been the pop when the housing came off it popped off. I am planning on buying a new clutch and cylinder and arm so hopefully this should sort all this out.


If i ever get the release arm out seems to be stuck, anyone got any ideas how to get it out?

I didn't need to hit the torque wrench i just thought it might help to shock it off. But by sounds of it, its not a good idea.

[lrostoke]

Shouldn't need a new arm, just get some oil on the pivot point and use a hammer to knock the arm back and forth, just a few taps in each direction to start, the oil will start to do its job and it'll free off.

[jameslearwood]

Good idea Liam I made the same mistake as you luckily the crank wasn't too bad so a quick retap of the thread saved the day.

Just want to add not to take off the bolts around the pressure plate as they attach the flywheel to the plate and you end up with a free flywheel but no movement on the plate I demolished a remover tool in my naive exuberance. yes I know how stupid it was but worth pointing out.

[Guess-Works.com]

Just another note on tool usage, if you turn the puller round, so the heads of the locating screws are on the flat rather than the recess, then you have more thread on the main bolt to work with....

[GILOELOV]

and to add another note, if you drip some oil on the threads of the big bolt on the tool before you start working, it will help a lot !