Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Removing Engine - Step By Step - Please?


  • Please log in to reply
10 replies to this topic

#1 CBJ805T

CBJ805T

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 430 posts
  • Location: Kenilworth

Posted 28 March 2012 - 12:00 PM

Hi All,

I need some help working out how to remove the engine as I've read through the Haynes manual but am still left with some questions - mainly does my car have one of those? What does it look like?? I work much better with pictures =]

I've got at 1984 Mini Mayfair

I found this old post http://www.theminifo...__fromsearch__1 which said remove these items below:




Accelerator cable,
Choke cable,
Heater cable,
Heater hoses ( one to head and one to bottom hose )
Top engine steady
Bottom gearbox steady - Is this present in a 1984 mini - what does it look like?
Clutch slave from housing - Does this need draining first?
Starter solenoid ( if on inner wing ) - Is this present in a 1984 mini - what does it look like?
Alternator, just gets in the way...
Gearshift mechanism - where would I disconnect this from on a 1984 mini?
Exhaust, if LCB the you can just separate it at the Y piece.
drive shafts ( to do this remove top ball joint and lean hub back )
Brake servo - Is this present in a 1984 mini - what does it look like?
Dizzy cap and rotor arm..

Haynes says to undo and remove the upper suspension arm rebound rubber and replace it with a wooden wedge - Why? what does the rebound rubber look like?



At what point does the engine need to be supported - just to ensure I don't take everything off and it falls on the floor =]

In case you hadn't guessed it already am a novice and could do with all the help I can get.

Thanks for any help in advance

Chris

#2 freshairmini

freshairmini

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,718 posts
  • Location: Alresford, Hampshire
  • Local Club: Winchester Area Mini Owners

Posted 28 March 2012 - 12:17 PM

Gearshift mechanism - where would I disconnect this from on a 1984 mini? = There's a roll pin in the rod underneath, knock that out with a drift or centre punch of correct size, mini spares to one if you don't have one. and disconnect the bar above the changer rod. Its pretty simple when you see it.

Brake servo - Is this present in a 1984 mini - what does it look like? = looks like this: (if you have one)
Posted Image

Clutch slave from housing - Does this need draining first? = not sure, the slave houssing i believe is just a piston, if you unbolt it it shoould just hang on its hose or tube.

Edited by freshairmini, 28 March 2012 - 12:17 PM.


#3 Sam14

Sam14

    TMF Mug

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,221 posts
  • Location: Mark, Somerset

Posted 28 March 2012 - 12:19 PM

A brake servo on a 1984 does not look like that at all.

#4 lrostoke

lrostoke

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,923 posts
  • Location: Maybank, Staffordshire
  • Local Club: none

Posted 28 March 2012 - 12:20 PM

Bottom gearbox steady...left side of engine underneath, near the sump plug, looks like top one but attaches to subframe

Clutch slave..I just disconnect, dont worry about fluid loss, you'll need refill and bleed when you refit.

If starter solenoid is on the wing, no need to remove..just disconnect the main cable off the starter motor.

gearshift....look underneath rear of engine theres two long rods...one connects with a nut and bolt..remove that...the other uses a metal tube with a pin at either end, remove the front pin...you need a proper size punch to get it out.

brake servo, depends how late in 84, Mines not got one and mines 84. look to left of engine bay...servo is a large round thing with a brake master cylinder attached, and also a pipe which will attach to the inlet manifol. If you've a big empty space above the clutch housing youve not got one...And you will find removing engine a lot easier :) more room

You can remove everything , engine won't fall out.may rock back and forwards once steadies are removed

Sam14 what does the 84 servo look like ???? I would have said same as picture above...got an 88 and 89 both have that servo..only other servos I've seen are the very early remote ones fitted to Coopers

Edited by lrostoke, 28 March 2012 - 12:23 PM.


#5 Algordo1100

Algordo1100

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 774 posts
  • Location: West Yorkshire/Sunny coast.

Posted 28 March 2012 - 12:36 PM

A brake servo on a 1984 does not look like that at all.


Probably because there isn't one.

;D

Al

#6 lrostoke

lrostoke

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,923 posts
  • Location: Maybank, Staffordshire
  • Local Club: none

Posted 28 March 2012 - 12:47 PM

Thats interesting..wasn't 84 the change over year to discs and 12" rims ??? Just checked and somerfords have direct servos from 88 onwards...did 84 - 88 not have servos but still had discs ??

#7 Sam14

Sam14

    TMF Mug

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,221 posts
  • Location: Mark, Somerset

Posted 28 March 2012 - 01:23 PM

I had a 1986 mini and it didnt have an assisted servo

#8 lrostoke

lrostoke

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,923 posts
  • Location: Maybank, Staffordshire
  • Local Club: none

Posted 28 March 2012 - 01:50 PM

So the answer to the OP's question is no you shouldn't have a servo :) :D.. not unless ones been added at a later date

#9 CBJ805T

CBJ805T

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 430 posts
  • Location: Kenilworth

Posted 28 March 2012 - 04:47 PM

That great thanks guys

Does anyone have any thoughts on the wedge - "Haynes says to undo and remove the upper suspension arm rebound rubber and replace it with a wooden wedge - Why? what does the rebound rubber look like?"



Thanks

Chris

#10 lrostoke

lrostoke

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,923 posts
  • Location: Maybank, Staffordshire
  • Local Club: none

Posted 28 March 2012 - 04:54 PM

You can remove the engine without undoing the hubs. You split the drive cups off the gearbox, then a bit of twisting of the engine and pushing side to side you can remove the drive shafts.
Don't forget drain the engine oil before starting

#11 Cooperman

Cooperman

    Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 23,036 posts
  • Location: Cambs.
  • Local Club: MCR, HAMOC, Chelmsford M.C.

Posted 28 March 2012 - 05:03 PM

To knock the roll pin out of the gear linkage put it in reverse in order to be able to hit the roll pin with a pin-punch.
Just undo the slave cylinder and leave it in the engine bay. No need to re-bleed after re-fitting.
Ignore the statement in Haynes about a wooden wedge under top arm.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users