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Getting Silly Now......


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#1 mymini007

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 07:59 PM

Can someone please give me an answer on this?

I went to somerford minis on friday to ask them about my gearbox problem.

They told me that the 90s coopers had 2 different length selector rods this is why I had to pull the shifter back and made it difficult to get the bolts to line up causing my odd gearing problem.

545mm and 565mm due to the fact Rover shifted the engine forward ever so slightly on the mainstream coopers.

So I took my shifter apart and my shift rod is...........

555mm

Please help, nobody seems to be able to give me a straight answer :(

#2 tiger99

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 08:30 PM

I don't know the answer, but I can think of several relevant questions, which may help.

Is the steady rod the correct length? That is equally important. Has it been bent?

Also there may be an issue with how the length of the gearchange rod is measured. Should it be end to end, or between roll pin holes?

And do you know which position your engine is supposed to be mounted in, standard or forwards?

#3 mymini007

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 08:38 PM

Tried the roll pin holes and that did not equate either.

But....

..... been doing a bit of reading.

My steady rod i reads 525mm so

I am guessing its a DAM5067

and I need a UKN10032 (545mm)

My selector rod is 555mm so I am assuming its a 22G1930

And I need a UKN10023 which is 12.7mm or half an inch longer.

#4 tiger99

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 09:58 PM

Yes, with the available parts that must be the correct option. If your gear lever has to be angled back too far, to get it to connect up, you definitely need the longer rod, because you must already have the longer steady.

Your engine should then be in the forward position, unless someone has moved the entire gear lever back by fitting longer rod and steady, and modifying the floor mount, which seems unlikely.

#5 mymini007

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 10:06 PM

The subby is from a 92 sprite, so its likely that it has the later (longer type)
The engine came out of a cobbled together modified mini and the rods that came out of the sprite had to be cut off, as it was seized.

Back to somerford tomorrow.

#6 mini-man-dan

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 05:21 AM

If you look at the front of the subframe a normal one will be completely straight from one side to the other whereas the late ones have a kink in that comes out towards the front of the car a bit like

(clutch side) -----____________----- (rad side)


if you are looking from the top.

The engine is moved forward into the kinked part. If your subframe is like this then you'll need the extended rods.

Hope this helps
Dan

Edited by mini-man-dan, 30 April 2012 - 05:22 AM.


#7 mymini007

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 05:28 AM

If you look at the front of the subframe a normal one will be completely straight from one side to the other whereas the late ones have a kink in that comes out towards the front of the car a bit like

(clutch side) -----____________----- (rad side)


if you are looking from the top.

The engine is moved forward into the kinked part. If your subframe is like this then you'll need the extended rods.

Hope this helps
Dan


Like this :D

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Thank you. Thats ths sort of thing I have been wanting to hear, :D

#8 mymini007

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 06:18 PM

:w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t:

:w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: All sorted!

selector rod difference

Posted Image

Steady rod difference

Posted Image

Edited by mymini007, 30 April 2012 - 06:27 PM.


#9 Dan

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 06:38 PM

Make sure your engine steadies are the right length also!

#10 summs116

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 07:12 PM

i had that problem 18months ago,all i done was drilled the 2 mounting holes further forward on the floor

#11 mymini007

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 07:34 PM

i had that problem 18months ago,all i done was drilled the 2 mounting holes further forward on the floor


Where were you yesterday with your bright suggestions :rolleyes: :P




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