4 replies to this topic

[Jakeyw20]

Hi all,

Quite a simple post really, failed MOT last friday and need a few things doing, one of them being fixing this gaiter.

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Its split on the drive shaft side, just before the cable tie.

Is there a good way of fixing the gaiter to get it though the MOT, or is it simple enough to get the hub away from the driveshaft to replace it?

Thanks in advance!

[ibrooks]

You used to be able to get something called a sticky boot (might have been a trade name). Basically it was a split gaiter that you put over the top of the existing one (it was sticky inside so it stuck to it. You then applied some glue that came with it along the split to hold it together and stuck new tie-wraps on each end.

Strictly a temporary measure to keep crud out of the CV joint until you could sort it properly and I dunno if you can still get them.

Replacing it properly is a bit of a scary job but not too dramatic. You will need an inch and five sixteenths socket for the hub nut. If you want to to any work on the ball-joints whilst they are accessible you will need a deep inch and a half socket.

Remove the split pin and slack off the hub-nut. This will be VERY tight. You will need a big torque wrench and a breaker bar to tighten it back up at the end of the job. You will also need a new split pin.

You pull the brake caliper off and tie it to the subframe so it's not dangling on the pipe (no need to disconnect pipes and subsequently need to bleed brakes. Hub nut first as you'll need the brakes to undo it.

Split the two balljoints (use a scissor type splitter). Ideally you will want two new nylocs for these when they go back together. Some aftermarket ones are an odd thread rather than UNF so if you can't find suitable replacements use threadlock. uo might be doing more work on these whilst it's in bits anyway.

Remove the hubnut and taper washer and the hub should pull off the driveshaft splines. The wheel-bearings shouldn't fall out but watch for them trying to so you can avoid them getting full of grit.

Under the car cut the tiewrap on the big end of the boot over the pot joint and release that inner gaiter from the pot.

The driveshaft will now pull out. Again watch for the ball bearings falling out of the inner joint - as soon as it's clear stick a polythene bag over that end and tie-wrap it to the shaft to avoid grit getting into the cage and so that any balls that do come free don't disappear.

Remove the rubbish gaiter and here we get options.

Some new gaiters are specifically stretchy so the small end will pass over the CV joint. You can buy a special plastic cone to aid this (I've made my own in the past by cutting up a plastic oil bottle) or there are fancy air-powered tools to do the job. Or you can remove the CV joint.

To remove the CV hold the driveshaft in a vice. Hold the CV straight (inline with the shaft) and give it a thump with a hammer on the large end. It should slide off the shaft. The strike with the hammer needs to be as close as possible to the line of the shaft.

Once it's off it's easy to stick the new gaiter on (consider the inner one - is it in tip-top condition or is it worth replacing it now whilst it's all in bits rather than having to repeat this exercise in 6 months).

Clean the CV joint out. Stick plenty of grease down the large centre hole when you are ready to re-fit.

The CV joint goes back on the way it came off - again everything needs to line up for it to slide on easily over the spring clip. You will be hitting the end of the CV that the hub-nut screw onto so care must be taken not to damage the threads (stick the nut back on so that it's just proud of the end threads and hit it instead with a lump of wood to protect it). That grease down the centre hole will be forced through the joint itself as the driveshaft goes in there - this is a good thing but can be messy for anyone or anything in range. More grease in the gaiter before you hook it over the CV and secure it with whatever ties are being used (tie-wraps or metal bands usually).

Feed the driveshaft back in making sure all the balls are in place as the inner end goes into the pot joint and there is plenty of grease in there. Re-secure the inner gaiter.

Re-assembly is now the reverse of removal. Check the balljoints whilst the hub is off and re-shim or replace as necessary. Similarly if there was any play in the wheel-bearings now is the time to replace them.

One the hub is back on with the driveshaft sticking through the bearings and the brake disc back in place you should use a large flat washer to make sure the bearings are properly seated before the taper washer and the hub-nut go back on for keeps. If you don't have one smear some light oil on the section of the CV where the taper washer goes to try to prevent it from gripping the shaft before the bearings are pulled up solid.

Now you need a gorilla to tighten the hub nut to the specified torque and then move it to the next hole for the split pin. You'll need to have put the brake caliper back on for this bit.

Iain

[Dan]

There is no need to either split (and incidentally risk ruining if you do it as described above) the inner joint in two or remove the hub nut to replace this gaiter. Leave the driveshaft in, leave the hub assembled. Remove the remains of the old gaiter. Remove the caliper and split the three ball joints. Knock the whole hub off the end of the driveshaft, be prepared for its weight (tie it to the top arm with cord if you like before knocking it off). Hold the driveshaft tightly while doing this so you don't accidentally pull it from the transmission and drain the oil! Now you can replace the gaiter easily. Over-greasing CV joints is not a good idea and can easily lead to the gaiter simply splitting immediately again due to pressure. The joint needs a specific amount, I seem to remember it's 3cc in an outer joint but check the manual. The sachet included with the gaiter is generic and tends to have far too much in for one joint on a Mini. If you have cleaned it out well, you will need to put 3cc back in it. If you cannot get it all clean, or it hasn't actually become badly contaminated or dried out then just put in enough to top it up. It's hard to judge but certainly don't pack loads in to the joint. It gets very hot inside there, there must be room for expansion and for the hot grease to flow.

[Jakeyw20]

Well thanks for the in detail responses guys I really appreciate it! I will let you know how it goes when I give it a go soon!

Also was just wondering, is this the same procedure for replacing/regreasing the hub wheel bearings? That was another thing on the MOT but unfortunately just to be awkard its on the back wheel haha!

Thanks again guys!

[Dan]

You will be best to replace rather than simply grease them, but it's easy enough. It's well described in Haynes.

Just had another look at your photo and realised this is a drum braked car. That will make it a little trickier to replace the gaiter without splitting the brake circuit. Your best bet is to leave the top balljoint connected and split the hub nut. This will stop the hub assembly being able to move too far and strain the brake hose, and with the hub nut removed you can pull the joint out of the back of the hub. Then knock it off the shaft as before. Also when reassembling a hub nut on a drum braked car, the torque required is far less than on a disc braked one.