5 replies to this topic

[The.Yellow.Mini.Guy]

Hi guys!,

The brakes in my mini are........**** to be honest and i would like to upgrade them. But before i go into detail of what i have I just wanted to know what actually makes brakes good? is it the compound in the pad?.. i'm not really sure any help would be great :)

I have drums at the back and disks in the front BUT i don't have a brake servo and that helps a lot doesn't it? I looked at this - http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_2194wt_1037

Is that the kind of thing i need? I'm not looking to spend a small fortune but i would prefer not to crash into the car in front of me

Also, adjusting the drum brakes so the pads to the drum is a good idea isn't it? because they dont do it automatically as they wear down?

As you can tell i'm not that experienced but I'd like to do the upgrade myself if possible

anyway.. thanks for any comments in advice, it really helps

[minimissionary]

A servo will help with the pressure required to fully depress the pedal, but will not improve the brakes themselves. Have you checked your pads/shoes for wear? Check the discs and rear cylinders too. If everything is up to scratch, then maybe they need bleeding?
Standard Mini brakes are actually pretty darn good when set up correctly.

[The.Yellow.Mini.Guy]

A servo will help with the pressure required to fully depress the pedal, but will not improve the brakes themselves. Have you checked your pads/shoes for wear? Check the discs and rear cylinders too. If everything is up to scratch, then maybe they need bleeding?
Standard Mini brakes are actually pretty darn good when set up correctly.

thanks for the reply

I'll check them for wear next chance i get

[Ethel]

Brakes convert kinetic energy into heat by friction, to state the obvious. The brake lining that produces the most heat will be the most effective. That depends on how hot the disc can get and how hard the pads are pressed against it.To dump the same heat out of a smaller disc (like 7.5" Cooper S's opposed to the 8.4"'s) it needs to run hotter because there's less surface for the air. That means harder pads to resist the fade and a servo helps to squeeze them harder.

With any brake, make as much of the pedal effort as possible goes into moving the friction lining, not overcoming sticking pistons etc. Discs, or drums, with a smooth surface that runs true will also maximise the contact with the friction material and make thye most heat for the least effort.

Friction materials have improved, but it's still true that a pad designed for heavy use on a racetrack will be less effective when you have to jump on the pedal of your road car on the motorway, with cold brakes. Fancy vented, grooved, & cross drilled discs would make the situation worse.

[shellspeed]

Just to add about quality of brake parts.

I brought another mini recently to use on the road. Standard 7.5" s disc set up but with a late servo. The brakes were shocking boarder line dangerous. I swapped the pads that still had loads of material left on them for some EBC green stuff and it improved the braking by at least 50%.

They are about 3 times the price of a cheap bogo standard pad but worth every penny!!!!!

[jimnali]

Yellow
Your current brake setup is well capable of stopping the car provided it is in good condition and is properly adjusted. Make sure your brakes are in good order before you think about upgrading it. A servo will not help if the brakes need adjusting or the the callipers are seized.

• Check front disks - make sure the callipers free to move, pads are not unduly worn, and the disks are not worn or corroded.
• Check rear drums - make sure the cylinders are free to move and are not leaking, the brake shoes are not worn or covered in brake fluid, drums are not worn or corroded.
• Check handbrake mechanism (and especially quadrants) is free to move
• Adjust rear brakes
• Adjust handbrake cable.
• If there is excess pedal movement - bleed brakes and renew brake fluid.

Good luck