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Draining The Radiator...losing The Will!


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#1 jules_perox

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 07:42 PM

After a '2 minute' (are they ever?) job to replace the thermostat -
all three bolts sheared,
casing and sandwich plate WELDED together,
much pain with a lump hammer and various cautious chisels to split apart :xxx:
mole gripped the remaining pins out
cleaned engine block surface,

and discovered a tone of crud inside the engine block under thermostat. Decided needed to flush radiator and water system out. Bought some rad clear kinda stuff.

However, I'm down with the whole hosepipe in the top of the radiator thing but after reading that the best way to drain the radiator/ system is to disconnect the bottom hose..

...how the bleedin do you get to it?

I can see the jubilee clip, but cant reach it, let alone the bottom hose?! I understand the long shank screwdriver to remove jubilee, but cant see how I can remove the pipe, or get it back on afterwards?!

Any help (particularly pics, because I'm not confident at this stuff) much appreciated. Thanks

#2 rover96

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 07:47 PM

Skinny arms and lots of bandaids....Seriously, once you have the jubilee clip loose try to fit an arm down and work the lower hose off of the radiator. I take the upper heater hose completely off to get more room. I also take the top rad mount out of the way so I can lean the radiator toward the wing for a little more room.

Other than that a lot of patience is needed.

Hope this helps.

Edited by rover96, 21 May 2012 - 07:49 PM.


#3 oltonlad

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 07:50 PM

its easier just to take the rad out rather than struggle trying to get the bottom hose off, once the rad is loose you can lift it up and remove the bottom hose............easy.

#4 jsiggee

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 07:51 PM

my dad cant do it but I have skinnier arms, I usualy undo the rad clamp at the top as well for a bit more room but it is a ******* to get off!

#5 racingbob

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 08:02 PM

whip the rad out and give it a paint at the same time !!

#6 xrocketengineer

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 11:43 PM

I have SPI and I drain the radiator by removing the grille, disconnecting the connections on the radiator fan switch at the bottom front of the radiator, removing the lock tab, some WD40 on the switch and wiggle the switch out. Out comes the coolant.

#7 zinzan

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Posted 23 May 2012 - 01:30 AM

Yeah, I found it easier to pull the rad and flush her properly and give her a shake. Amazing how much crap then comes out. And refitting? The scrapes heal up on your knuckles, fingers, wrists, forearms, etc. in a couple weeks. ;D

#8 jules_perox

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Posted 23 May 2012 - 11:05 AM

Dear all, Many thanks for your suggestions and help.

I removed the front grill, loosened the mounting bolt for the radiator and lifted it a little clear. After copious amounts of WD40 on the jubilee clip on the bottom hose it came off fine.

Drained, and flushed it with the garden hose,
mounted back, not entirely trusting of my replacing the bottom hose and new jubilee clip correctly -but I'm sure I'll soon find out when radiator is refilled and the rad clear stuff is added!?

Only thing is...in a few days time I've it to do all again to get the rad clear stuff out! AAARGGHHH! MINI's!!!

Cheers again guys!

#9 jules_perox

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 04:14 PM

The inevitable question has arisen...

Now the hose is off, and the water pump gasket replaced...how in Jeebus name do I get it reattached?

The hose doesn't seem to have any flex in it as its a one piece molding to the water pump and some where else out the back of the engine(?)
I've pulled the rad around, removed the bottom mounting bolt, its been in, its been out...but apart from various scrapes, cuts and aches absolutely nowt to show for it!

I even tried a smear of copper grease (lets face it, everything else has it on, going back in!) on the rad outlet but all to no avail. It just wont connect past the shoulder on the tube...

AAAARRRGGGHHHHHH! and Oww me bleedin forearm...

#10 jules_perox

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 09:02 PM

Got the bottom hose attached by lifting it as high as I could and putting the rad in, kinda by only one corner.
Attached hose and then fully mounted rad. Put whole lot back together (how are you meant to tension the belt by yourself?! Did me best!) and now discovered that the water pump has failed and is leaking water from there!

Gasket fitted so its not coming from there, only thought is water pump.

First name terms me and the bloke at Minispares...kinda

#11 Joethechippy

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 04:57 PM

i may be wrong but, i don't think the water pump can leak when it fails, unless the metal case cracks i guess. The waters is probably coming from the rubber hose or a gap in the gasket. Did you use any gasket glue/putty between the gasket, the block, and the pump?

tension the belt by turning the pully tensioner, loosening the pully nut a tiny bit helps, and ease the tensioning nut with wd40 first. The tensioning nut is awkward, but lifting the radiator slightly and using a long extension on the ratchet (so you have the ratchet under the front of the car by the number plate, if you see what mean) make it easyer. I think the belt needs about 12mm movement in it, with reasonable pressure applied between the pully wheel, and the altinater.

have you got a haynes manual? worth getting one if not.

Edited by Joethechippy, 25 May 2012 - 05:09 PM.


#12 jamesmpi

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 05:35 PM

Tightening the belt tensioner is a blooming awful and awkward job. I think I managed it by jacking the car up, then using a ratchet with a flexible universal joint and a socket extension whilst laying under the car. It's a right pig of a job!

Edited by jamesmpi, 25 May 2012 - 05:36 PM.


#13 Joethechippy

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 05:46 PM

yeah it is a bugger. The first time i did it, i spent ages, swearing and ripping my hands to shreds, then i sprayed the nut with wd40 and it was alot easyer, d'oh

#14 jules_perox

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Posted 26 May 2012 - 12:31 PM

thanks for further advice both.

Well I got a new water pump, new gasket for better or worse. Did use sealant the first time but it doesnt seem to be as good as the Loctite stuff ive bought second time round from Halfords.

Trial and (mostly) error with the alternator tightening up. The belt is firm though so fingers crossed.

There's no water visibly leaking now BUT it looks like the Head Gasket has stopped being thanks to the man handling of the thermostat housing.
So its time to reach my limitations and limp it to the miraculous Mike at Miniworld Bilston. I tried me best...bit naffed off to be honest...

#15 buznout

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Posted 16 January 2017 - 11:56 PM

I have SPI and I drain the radiator by removing the grille, disconnecting the connections on the radiator fan switch at the bottom front of the radiator, removing the lock tab, some WD40 on the switch and wiggle the switch out. Out comes the coolant.

 

Reviving a dead thread here but re: the fan switch at the base of the radiator, how do you wiggle that switch out? It is recessed and the only grab points are the terminals? Asking before pulling!






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